Woodie

Before you buy new expensive discs have you tried freeing off the disc bobbins. These can seize if left unserviced. as the disc is semi-floating if these do not move it can mean the disc is pulled out of line by the carrier. this quite a good video by a Brit called Delboy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw I do this as part of my spring servicing and it has cured two sets of discs of a slight wobble.

|I've had a look... (downloaded the photo and blew it up.) and it looks suspiciously like a thread as if someone has bodged a repair.

I use IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol not that rubbish Wetherspoons sell) gave it a good wash out and then some PC/Contact cleaner. wiggle the button in and out. usually works on switches. I have in the past dismantled them, and scraped the contacts but this worked so didn't bother.

Well.... seems the clutch switch was the culprit. Took it off, gave it a good clean put it back.. Et Voila. it starts.. Well it would do if the battery wasn't flat.. Ho Hum.. I suppose I'd better get the meter out and test the Reg/Rec.

Thanks for the clarification. I'll have another look.

Only really an annoyance but my 2002 VTEC 800 6th Gen won't start if it's in gear. I know the clutch switch works as it won't start unless the clutch is pulled in. I know the sidestand switch as it kills the engine as soon as I kick it down. The bike runs fine, once I have started it I can ride it as normal but I have stalled the engine when it's cold a couple of times and it's annoying to have to drop back to neutral to re-start it. Anyone have any ideas?

When I first started biking inn the late 70's I was taught to ride by my older brother and that was just the basics. This is how you pull out, this is how you turn et'c, et'c,. I was 16 and graduating from pedal power to engine power and, trust me on this, if you used the front brakes to stop the bike like you do on a motor bike You where OFF, no question. I have talked with many of my contemporaries and they all did the same thing. Many of them still being rear brake heavy up until such times as they tried instructed track days or advanced training. I was broken of the habit when I had to re-take my licence about 15 years ago. That being said there are always occasions when using more rear than front is sometimes a better way of slowing. Very slippery conditions, I'd rather have the back squirm as it locks than let the front wash out. Like others I would suggest practicing stopping on some empty straight roads. Here in the UK part of the Driving test for Motorcycles is an emergency stop so you are taught basic techniques of front first and then rear as you come to a stop. works well but how many of us actually practice emergency braking or even hard braking unless the situation arises when it is definitely needed. NOW. I'd suggest trying a few now and then. keeps you in touch with how the bike feels under hared braking

UC make a full Bike suit.. They also do a Darth Maul jacket I always fancied.

Was just a thought, I've had older bikes MOT fail for the wrong headlight DIP. I know the universal headlights and other bikes are a vertical dip so they don't have to produce different beam patterns for L and R/hand drive countries.

different beam pattern possibly ? The bike didn't come from RS at Todmorden by any chance ?

I know it's not a 5th Gen but I converted my 6th Gen to have the indicators in the mirrors and mounted the driving lights where the indictors where. High enough to point in the right direction and solid enough not to vibrate.

Which panniers do you have? I had the Honda OEM pannier racks on my 2002 when it arrived but I took them off as I don't use this bike for touring.

Like Skids I have MX style hand protectors. They do deflect the wind and allow my hands to suffer less from wind Chill but don't eliminate it entirely. I can't see those deflectors being anymore effective.