Woodie

Before you buy new expensive discs have you tried freeing off the disc bobbins. These can seize if left unserviced. as the disc is semi-floating if these do not move it can mean the disc is pulled out of line by the carrier. this quite a good video by a Brit called Delboy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw I do this as part of my spring servicing and it has cured two sets of discs of a slight wobble.

|I've had a look... (downloaded the photo and blew it up.) and it looks suspiciously like a thread as if someone has bodged a repair.

I use IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol not that rubbish Wetherspoons sell) gave it a good wash out and then some PC/Contact cleaner. wiggle the button in and out. usually works on switches. I have in the past dismantled them, and scraped the contacts but this worked so didn't bother.

Well.... seems the clutch switch was the culprit. Took it off, gave it a good clean put it back.. Et Voila. it starts.. Well it would do if the battery wasn't flat.. Ho Hum.. I suppose I'd better get the meter out and test the Reg/Rec.

Thanks for the clarification. I'll have another look.

Only really an annoyance but my 2002 VTEC 800 6th Gen won't start if it's in gear. I know the clutch switch works as it won't start unless the clutch is pulled in. I know the sidestand switch as it kills the engine as soon as I kick it down. The bike runs fine, once I have started it I can ride it as normal but I have stalled the engine when it's cold a couple of times and it's annoying to have to drop back to neutral to re-start it. Anyone have any ideas?

When I first started biking inn the late 70's I was taught to ride by my older brother and that was just the basics. This is how you pull out, this is how you turn et'c, et'c,. I was 16 and graduating from pedal power to engine power and, trust me on this, if you used the front brakes to stop the bike like you do on a motor bike You where OFF, no question. I have talked with many of my contemporaries and they all did the same thing. Many of them still being rear brake heavy up until such times as they tried instructed track days or advanced training. I was broken of the habit when I had to re-take my licence about 15 years ago. That being said there are always occasions when using more rear than front is sometimes a better way of slowing. Very slippery conditions, I'd rather have the back squirm as it locks than let the front wash out. Like others I would suggest practicing stopping on some empty straight roads. Here in the UK part of the Driving test for Motorcycles is an emergency stop so you are taught basic techniques of front first and then rear as you come to a stop. works well but how many of us actually practice emergency braking or even hard braking unless the situation arises when it is definitely needed. NOW. I'd suggest trying a few now and then. keeps you in touch with how the bike feels under hared braking

UC make a full Bike suit.. They also do a Darth Maul jacket I always fancied.

Was just a thought, I've had older bikes MOT fail for the wrong headlight DIP. I know the universal headlights and other bikes are a vertical dip so they don't have to produce different beam patterns for L and R/hand drive countries.

different beam pattern possibly ? The bike didn't come from RS at Todmorden by any chance ?

I know it's not a 5th Gen but I converted my 6th Gen to have the indicators in the mirrors and mounted the driving lights where the indictors where. High enough to point in the right direction and solid enough not to vibrate.

Which panniers do you have? I had the Honda OEM pannier racks on my 2002 when it arrived but I took them off as I don't use this bike for touring.

I don't have a heated jacket, The old Akito Jacket managed quite well with a few layers underneath. Not yet tried the new one in anger. When I feel the onset of old age/Dementia I will look at investing in an OAP jacket like yours. The tyres, They are Conti Road Attack 2's (I think!) gonna see if they can cope with the roads, I don't like them and would prefer PR4/5's so they are going on at next tyre change. LED conversion would be next but the new spot's work a treat. nice white light from them.

I have just finished "Winterising" my Commuter bike (2002 VTEC 800) so far I have added. Higher Screen (Zero Gravity High/Touring screen Handlebar Wind deflectors/hand protectors. High Level Indicators in mirrors Spot lights where Indicators used to be. I do have some heated grips fitted but they don't work at the moment. Whoever fitted them originally didn't tidy the wiring so it got 'pinched'./ I just need to re-wire the connectors on shortened wires and they should be good to go. I'll see how I cope with the wind deflectors first. see if they make any difference. the little testing I have done so far they seem to but I won't be able to make a judgment until I have used them for a while.

Not sure on exchange rates ATM but I just bought a CF helmet, for £260. fits well, double visor, looks good ... to be honest JZH posted the RC-30 lid was $830 and the plain one was $670 ! a hundred and sixty bucks extra for a few stickers... NAH !

Like Skids I have MX style hand protectors. They do deflect the wind and allow my hands to suffer less from wind Chill but don't eliminate it entirely. I can't see those deflectors being anymore effective.

Ayup... nice to see another rifer from the Sahff of Ingurlund. whereabouts in South Oxon you at?

Ayup? how's the bike going or not given it a good thrashing yet !

Wotcha neighbour..

Where'd you get the seat done Woods? Turn around time? Did you forward a second used one to save on down time? How much did it set you back? Would you recommend their work? It was a local auto Upholsterer called Phill Silk in Newbury. dropped it off got it back 2 days later. easy-peasy.

He He. I deliberately didn't mention the make as I scavenged them from my "Stock". They are actually Triumph Sprint GT 1050 bars which I fettled to fit with some ST1100 throttle cables. They have the same fork diameter and clamped on with some modification. I know LSL/Speigler do some good kits and also Helibar but they were a bit expensive to me for something that might not be suitable for me., I'm Scots by birth so I object to paying for anything unless I have to. There is also this thread found on this very esteemed site.

I put higher bars on my 6th Gen and found the throttle cables from a ST1100 are the same style but a few inches longer. I'm not sure if this helps as mine is a FI engine. hope this helps.