spud786

If you look at the floor of the airbox, the rear is deeper, thats why the long stacks go in the rear and short in the front. so they are the same height installed.

BLS runs mobil 5w30 , Im kinda surprised people didn't catch on, when those uoa's were posted , and how little time he had on the oil, A normal timed oil change, his numbers would have been ugly. They didn't look to bad , for 500 to 700 miles(that actually made them look better than they really were).

, so after reading this data I'm afraid of how low my wear protection dropped on that trip.>>>>>>> My experience, the difference between a 5w40 and a 20w50 on (max water temps) in 100 degree heat, is one or 2 degree max. Actually to close to call as any effect at all. My vfr never sees more than 227 dgree max ever, there was one time I saw 230 degree, just a non issue. However I tend to run standard coolant (prestone 60 to 70% mix), where many riders are trying various concoctions, from engine ice , to water wetter and water. Just an non issue for me, ever, I run the same stuff in my KTM race motor also, where others seem to always have issues with boil over, although good mapping or jetting plays a role too in motor heat. When my KTM 500 single cylinder was new *(less than 3,000 miles), I produced less metal in a uoa with more mileage than BLS's 50,000 plus v4 , that is damn near funny. Yet he continues his quest. to enlighten. However my experience with light weights and high sustained rpms , light weight oils show earlier cam lobe wear , and the reason I don't run 30 weights in High Rpm Motorcycles.

Was that in a motorcycle engine or car? Or if you were using Busy little shops numbers, from his uoa's, that show a lot of metal for a 700 mile max interval and really unsatisfactory. Yet he still spews the nonsense. Im just wondering where your getting your information from.

That's all screwed up as far as im concerned for cartridge fork set up, they need to be pumped bled and oil height measured . and anytime you break the seals, best to replace(that's one issue I have with 30 minute oil change(your just risking seal issue). also you don't even have to even separate the forks, just to change oil., you do have to remove the legs, and the top caps and spring. No need to touch bottom fork bolt, unless your doing a complete disassembly.

Its hard to make sure all get ridden, cause you normally want to reach for your favorite every ride. The displine is in doing those routine mercy rides on the others. Don't get rid of the vfr though, till your sure its no longer needed, a good vfr can be very difficult to replace, and may not even exist. I would not get rid of mine, cause its everything I need in a street bike, and it would cost me 14 grand to replace it. But its not my favorite bike I look to ride.

From what I hear you need a crows foot wrench and extension. IMO just do the gasket mod, install a new auto tensioner and live happily ever after.

Thank you. Totally spaced this one out. This is my problem. How fast does it pour out, was this the front or the rear, just curious how much pressure the flow has? modded gasket or standard?

you have to put the screw in the top of the tensioner, or else it will do that. #12 plus the washer

Lots of wires , does it run yet?

If the impression is anodizing an aluminum sprocket provides a hard wear coating, that would not really be accurate, anodizing on the actual teeth lasts about 5 rotations.

Your not going to beat the oem steel sprocket longevity(ever) its futile. Marketing and cool colors will not change that . Sidewinder built its reputation of T7076 aluminum sprockets, nice for weight but offer nothing compared to even cheap steel in longevity.

Who's making their chains these days, it used to be Regina and I can say regina Zrings are an extreme avoid. So if that's what you had, Im not surprised.

Definitely a better Look!!!

I guess Dutchy is the only one who knew what an indicator is? So what is an indicator?