Bruckner

I ended up postponing the installation of my new fast idle device, as the winter nears with ever colder mornings what I noticed is that the wax unit works as it should... when it is near freezing outside! I mean, it'll fire up and go straight to fast idle, where as mild fall season temps will produce a lazy start with fast idle creeping up over a 10-15 seconds. My theory is that a tired wax unit will not retract fully when cooling down in mild temps... bike is now in storage, will deal with this in the spring which won't come soon enough!

Could a faulty air temp sensor or water temp sensor cause my lazy start issue in cold weather? I can get the motor to reach fast idle with a few cracks of the throttle, but something's definitely up... aside from that the engine idles nice and steady when hot and throttle modulation on/off is great, it really is a problem when cold. I know it's a minor annoyance, I just like my toys to work well...

The spark plugs are new from last year, they were in bad shape and replacing them literally transformed the bike. Is there any benefit in first changing the coolant? It is on my to-do-list as I haven't changed it in years, perhaps it's worth doing that before messing with the wax unit. With regards to the core itself, is it a separate part from the whole assembly part number 16044-MCW-003? Thanks guys,

The cooler temps are upon us and my bike now struggles to reach fast idle, it can take up to a minute to settle. Is that the telltale of a failing wax unit? Last year I removed the airbox to inspect my vacuum lines and found the rubber seal that's around the wax unit rod to be torn, though it operates its full range of motion. Provided a new unit is on the way, what's the procedure to adjust the nut on the rod? I see that this part was adjusted at the factory when assembling the bike and shouldn't be messed with, but what about a new part? Thanks,

Great stuff, I'll be putting this tool together this weekend. Is there a full writeup on the disassembly of airbox, or is the service manual good enough? Should the tank be taken off entierly? Regards, Bruckner

For the members who understand Spanish, there is a discussion by Honda race engineers of the NSR500 and the Big Bang effect here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGSxjM6pfXE I wish the original English version was available.. fascinating stuff! Regards, Bruckner

OK guys, something of interest for those who bypassed the ground green wire around the blue connector because the latter can't be opened (fused plastic inner bits), you may be uncomfortable (as I was) knowing that any routine maintenance that requires this blue connector to be opened will require dealing with this stuck connector. The local Honda tech here in Montreal found a clever way to undo the blue box halves: there are 2 clips on the front side of the connection (towards the front of the bike) held in place by flexible plastic bits (in 'S' shape on picture, provided by a member here, thanks!), open these up and the individual connections will be exposed, undo the ground wire connection and a few others, use a flat screwdriver to push the terminal out of the socket (may require a bit of force) and voila. Put in generous amounts of grease, use the bypass and enjoy the peace of mind of knowing all connectors can be opened, as they should be, should need be. pic blue box copy.jpg Interestingly, Honda acknowledges that this connection must be checked during any inspection (tech call) so they are aware of the problem. For any Montreal owners experiencing this problem, see Richard at Excel Honda, he's an ace. Regards, Bruckner