VFROZ

Pre Triumph Sprint days. I do miss it.

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You're using Windows 7???? Seriously Grum, you need to update, we're up to Windows 10 you know 🙂

This is not a boring old twin. The Aprillia has a 270° crank, and sounds and behaves like a V twin, just more compact. Don't underestimate the new generation of twins with the crossplane cranks, they have huge amounts of torque and are just as intoxicating as the V4 was in its day. With the power to weight ratio, latest equipment and all the electronics, they will leave the poor old VFR far behind. But it's not a sports tourer, they are out of fashion I'm afraid, and it doesn't seem like anyone is in a hurry to bring them back. Sad really. I couldn't find a replacement, it's why I bought a 1050 Sprint.

Bugger, you should have used that opportunity to replace said faulty water pump with a newer 2015 VFR. Better safe than sorry I say.

Yes you can. I installed a pump from a 2008 6G on my 2001 5G without a problem.

No need to panic. A 6G or even 8G pump will fit, even if part numbers are different. I fitted a 6G pump on my 5G With no problem and I know someone fitted an 8G as well.

I've owned this bike for 3500km's now, so thought I would update my thoughts. Even though the ST weighs the same as the VFR, it carries it's weight higher as the motor sits higher and more forward in the frame. It's fine with me as I like more weight on the front, but I struggle riding up my steep driveway on the grass when my ute is parked there, as it spins the rear and I go up sideways no matter how hard I try to stop it, the VFR with the same tyres had no problem wet or dry. It handles better than the VFR, but I found the VFR easier to throw around. This might change as I become one with the bike. The suspension is soft, but now that I'm more used to it I can compensate for it. You have to adopt a different style to the VFR to ride it fast, you need to rely on the torque and change gears less. You also need to be smoother due to the soft suspension, note that my VFR was far from stock in this department. It is more sensitive to correct chain adjustment, the VFR I used to run loser than needed, while the ST needs to be spot on to get the smoothest ride out of it. Fuel economy (not that I normally worry about this) is a lot better than the VFR, surprisingly so considering it's bigger displacement and available grunt. Loaded up with the paniers and tank bag full and riding fast I still managed around 425km to the tank when being somewhat sedate, and 325km when going hard on tight roads. Tank is 20L same as the VFR. The ST's motor is more or less useless under 3500rpm, so in comparison about the same as the VFR being useless under 4500rpm when you take in red line differences (this will depend on weather you're a lady or a man :-). And how good is it having a normal radiator in the right place? You don't even have to look at the temp gauge, slow moving traffic, stopped, in the heat, it doesn't matter, at 103°C the fan starts and temp drops, no fuss. Did I mention I miss the sound of the VFR? The ST is a lot more comfortable than the VFR on long stints, but I find it harder to man handle in the parking lot let alone on the side of the road (I'm a short arse and can only put down one foot at the time while sitting on it). I love the integrated hard bags and trip computer. The free TuneEcu program available to all Triumphs is fantastic to use, I've even managed to change the way my speedo reads to compensate for the -1 tooth front sprocket I've installed. You can also change fuel mapping, ignition timing, rev limiter, fan on/off temp, AFR, you can also test equipment by switching everything on/off and get real time readings of everything including individual cylinder vaccum to adjust throttle boddies. How good is that? I mean it, how good is that? Chain driven cams suck!!! Seriously (6th/8th geners will never know). Did I mention VFR sound?, Oh I did. How good is the rear wheel for everyone to see?

In Oz, modifications to exhaust, suspension, brakes or fuelling (including modules like Dynojet) do not affect your insurance. I actually checked this with my own insurer. Obviously other countries differ. And something I found surprising, when I transferred my insurance to my new 1050 ST it was actually cheaper. The VFR was insured for AU$5200 + AU$2000 of riding gear and it cost me AU$320 yearly. The new Sprint 1050ST is insured for AU$6500 + AU$2000 of riding gear and costs me AU$290 yearly. Who would have guessed?

I don’t think the problem is your headers. I replaced item with the same on my 2001, and found that I lost some top end but gained bottom and middle (they’re not a very free flowing headers, pretty crap design really) I did have a PCIII installed, but when I sold the bike I removed it and took it for a ride to make sure everything was fine, no hesitation at all, but it was an 01.

Check this: Disc info.docx FORK AND DISK INFO.xlsx

Hmmm, this has been said before. I'm hoping it is true this time.

Thanks Grum, it was a hard decision to make. The VFR motor is the hardest to replace and I just couldn't go to an IL4. It has 35,000kms on it and is stock except for the rear guard being removed and LED stop light and blinkers intergated into one, quite nifty the way it works. Tip: always consult wife before making rash decisions.

2008 Triumph 1050 Sprint ST, only because I've ended up buying one. It was a hard decision to trade in the 5G, but with 137,000kms on it and wanting a change, it was the only obvious choice without breaking the bank. A fantastic chasis, same weight as the 5G, but with 123 horses and 77ft-lb of torque. It has steeper steering geometry with shorter trail, it also places more weight on the front wheel, so it makes for faster steering and really good feed back from the front tyre. I actually love the way it drops into a corner, it is so precise and quick, also easy to throw around, much better than my modified 5G. Stock suspension is too soft, the back is OK sort off, but the front is way undersprung, and with progressive springs it makes sure it doesn't actually suit anything or anyone. Who comes up with this crap? The motor is fantastic, I haven't ridden a long stroke motor (compared to most offerings today) for a very long time. It has lots of grunt from down low and is deceptively fast. People who say it sounds fantastic haven't ridden a 5G with open Staintune, the VFR wins hands down. I just could not give up the single sided swingarm, a very underrated feature I think. Sitting position is more relaxed than the VFR with better fairing protection. Brakes are good without being outstanding, all Triumphs come with steel braided brake hoses, so might need different pads to get better bite. Gearing is too tall, so will be changing to -1 front sprocket tomorrow. Hard bags are a pleasure to have, and is something I was looking for on a replacement bike. I can't stress enough how good this bike enters a corner and holds a line, I can't wait until I upgrade the suspension, wife is already pissed so might need to wait a while.

I strongly agree with you Grum. I don't grease wheel studs, but I do clean them with WD40 then just lightly wipe with a clean cloth. Rattle guns and 18 year olds in tyre shops are a bad mix. The only time I use the torque wrench is when I do the cams, all else I do by feel. Mind you there are a lot of people that haven't done a lot of engine work throughout their lives, and seriously over tighten all bolts. My first engine rebuild was on my mum's Austin 1800 when I was 14. Mind you, I had a container full of bolts left over that didn't seem to cause any issues, obviously over engineered.

If you go to: https://www.gearingcommander.com/ load your bike and sprocket combination, it will give you an accurate indication of how it behaves, as opposed to the inaccurate speedo.

I run 17/45 on my 5G and wouldn’t go back to stock

I’m sure that they’re the same

More like competition to the BMW S850XR or the like. At only 650cc it will not be serious competition to the GSXR derived 1000cc Katana.

If it’s running fine why would you want to replace or clean them? O2 sensors are not something that need servicing, they usually last the life of the bike.

The bolt doesn’t actually screw through the hanger, but bolts to the case and hanger goes over the top of it. stops the hanger rotating.

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I have three mates running LiFepo4 batteries. Shorai and SSB. One of them has them on three bikes. The one in his Ducati hadn’t been started for around 1 year, when we were having a beer in his shed and talking about this he plugged it back in again and it cranked no problem. The bike wouldn’t start but it’s a Ducati after all, and it wasn’t because of a lack of crank power. My other mate has one in his dirt bike that he uses only a few times a year and doesn’t even own a charger. The other mate has one on a road bike that gets used once every couple of weeks. None of them reported any problems, all said they crank much harder than lead batteries. None of them do any maintenance on them. I think there is too much hear say and urban myths about them.

If you want LED's, you need these: Make sure you match colours to the warning lights, and get warm for the instruments if you want it looking the same. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/199/875/