ducnut

Inside the harness, the double wires are crimped onto single wires of the same gauge. Why? I have no idea.

Likewise, I know nothing of Witchhunter. However, I’ve used Eric Derr who charges $55 for a set of four and includes new O-rings and return shipping, as well. Currently, he is doing my Silverado injectors.

I’d suggest contacting Pete for a recommendation. http://www.superbikeuniverse.com/

Ducati Supersport(S), Motus MST(R), and the Aprilia Tuono.

At the bottom of this page is a rotor matrix. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/front-fork-swap-guide-23751/page2/#&gid=1&pid=6

I ordered a K&N, last spring, and received the larger element. I believe, the issue stems from what each distributor has on their shelves. For instance, a smaller distributor may not stock it and orders direct from K&N at the time the customer (us) orders and they receive a large element. Whereas a large distributor may have stock sitting on the shelf from 5yrs ago and the customer ends up with a small element. I think, your best bet is to order direct. I feel like the K&N rep probably walked out to the warehouse and physically pulled a filter to double-check the element for their conclusive answer.

I have one of these in my bike and it’s simply apply pressure, crack off the throttle, and the bike goes right into the next gear. I clutchless shift, nearly every shift. I’d suggest ordering a shift shaft bearing and seal, as well. My bike only had 16K miles and that compartment contained grit and dirt, as well as, my shift shaft having some movement.

^^^ Sounds totally plausible.

I’m sorry for any misinformation. I’m going off memory of my teardown of my 5th Gen and have slept many nights, since then. Trying to remember what went where and how it went has proven difficult.

I’m pretty sure the massive amperage output of the jump box toasted your wire harness. The wire to the ignition switch is not fuse-protected and always hot, from the battery. When you turn the key on, that triggers a relay, which powers up the fuse block and the rest of the bike, which are all fuse-protected. Your best bet is to pull the entire harness out of the bike and completely strip it, to assess damage. With any luck, it won’t have melted a bunch of wires together and you can simply repair what you need to. Worst case is you have to find a complete harness and swap it in. Keep in mind, the battery in your bike is less than 200CCA. A vehicle can require upwards of 700CCA. If that jumper box can overcome the dead battery in something that can require three times the cranking amps of your bike and can still start that vehicle, you shouldn’t use it. I’ve completely stripped my harness, due to previous stator and R/R issues. It’s not that bad, once you get it out of the bike.

All the high-end stuff has sensors in the individual runners. What I can’t say is how far they protrude into exhaust flow. Richard and Jozef know their stuff, given they’ve went so far as to try and campaign a prototype bike in MotoGP (no matter what platform it was based off of), have built some the fastest bikes on the planet and in any paddock, and have bikes that currently remain at the pointy end of any grid. I’d be most inclined to follow their advice, since they’re on the frontline and have firsthand knowledge of what does what.

I bought it used with the map in it. The only connections I made were to the EFI interface and battery. It came with no instructions, download cables, etc; just the module itself.

I have a PC5 on my ‘98 and it runs perfect. In response to “Voided76” being curious about gearing affecting horsepower readings, it does not. It only aids in the engine’s mechanical advantage over the wheel, but, does not change engine output or horsepower numbers read by a dyno.

Amazing effort!