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ducnut

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ducnut last won the day on August 5

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About ducnut

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  • Location
    Taylorville, IL
  • In My Garage:
    ‘15 Tiger 800XCx
    ‘02 SV650S
    ‘98 VFR

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  1. You want the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit. It includes a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R, which is the latest in R/R technology. Also, it includes a stand-alone wire harness that gets the charging circuit out of the bike’s main harness and it adds a 30A breaker before the battery, two things that add a level of protection. Lastly, this setup uses the battery as a power bank, which allows the R/R to open/close, or cycle, the charging circuit, which allows the stator and R/R to run cooler. Forget about the VFRness. It’s a waste of time and money. I was working in a Honda dealership, in 2000. We had gotten in a new VFR that I drooled over, everyday. Unfortunately, there was no way I could afford one. The memory of that bike has always stuck in my mind, so I get the affinity for yellow bodywork. As much as I don’t like the wax idle unit or catalytic converter, I’d still go for the 2000. Just keep in mind, despite its low mileage, it’s still a 21yr-old bike and will need all the same maintenance items as a higher mileage bike of the same year.
  2. Check this guy on FB. He has tons of Ducati stuff. Two different FB pages, but, the same dude.
  3. You stated the bike had been parked 3wks and when you went to start it, it was slow to crank and the display went out. That’s an indication of the battery being week.
  4. Start with the battery. A battery that doesn’t maintain voltage over a 3wk period is on its way out. Voltage will show artificially low, because the battery is placing extra load on the charging system and not just being topped up/maintaining. A healthy battery won’t pull as much voltage from the system. I’d suggest getting an unserviced, new battery and a maintenance charger. When putting the battery into service, put the acid pack into the battery, let it empty, then, let it sit 3-4 hours. This will allow the matting to fully absorb the acid. Lightly tap the battery on the countertop to dislodge any bubbles. Then, put it on a maintenance charger, until the light goes green, indicating a fully-charged battery. Most shops rush the process and is why I’d never buy a battery they’ve serviced. The more thorough and gentle the process, the better life expectancy will be. Also, plugging the battery into a maintenance charger anytime the bike is parked will benefit battery life, as well. I got 12yrs out of the Yuasa in my SV, doing as I’ve described. Lastly, eliminate the stator wire connector that leads to the R/R. That is the most trouble-prone connector on the whole bike. Then, plan for a Roadstercycle SH847 R/R Kit, as it’ll ensure many years of reliable charging system performance.
  5. The header is a polished VFRD header, found elsewhere in this forum. The rearsets are Chinesium specials off eBay for a 929/954. They’re mounted to adapters from Sebastian Seebacher, of Sebspeed Customs, who can be found on FB.
  6. For sure, laying out graphics on these bikes, with their compound curves, is incredibly difficult and I applaud Boosh63’s efforts. I started with initial layout work, one day, and budgeted a full day for sticking them, the next day. The only way my wings look completely lined up and straight is looking directly at the bike from the side, on a stand. But, they never look straight in pics. Rob, at Tape Works, was who originally designed the templates for VFR wing graphics. He’s been around decades, being heavily involved in the graphics on many USA-based, factory racebikes of the 1990’s and 2000’s. He did my graphics and offers a 6th Gen version, if someone wanted something more accurate to the Honda wing graphics of of that period (Boosh63’s wings are of a later era Honda).
  7. Throwing parts at bikes seems to be today’s MO for motorcycle repair, instead of actually diagnosing issues. Why? There are fewer actual technicians in shops, these days.
  8. Don’t buy a VFRness; just get the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit. This kit gets the charging system out of the main harness and upgrades the R/R to the most modern technology available, with a Series R/R.
  9. I use DuPont dry lube as a chain lube, with a wipe of WD-40 as a rust inhibitor. DP Brakes HH+ brake pads generate almost no dust. They invented the disc brake and are still family-owned. They’ve got it figured out. Two coats of clear powdercoat, over the two color coats, leaves a really smooth finish, which is very easy to clean. After I wash the bike, the wheels get hit with Honda Polish. That’s all I do, for wheel maintenance. After 3yrs of being white, they’re still crisp.
  10. You want to powdercoat them, as it’s the most durable choice. I’d suggest 2 coats of clear, to really seal them and have a mirror finish. The smoother the finish, the harder it is for stuff to stick to them, and the easier to clean.
  11. I run DP Brakes HH+ pads on Braking wave rotors and have very minimal dust. You might try their pads, next round.
  12. So loving this!!! I really want to do the 954 swingarm on my 5th Gen, so I can mount a set of Core Moto wheels, and upswept mufflers on each side in the angle of RC51 cans. I think, it’d make for a pretty unique VFR.
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