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ducnut

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ducnut last won the day on April 23

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About ducnut

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

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  • Location
    Taylorville, IL
  • In My Garage:
    ‘15 Tiger 800XCx
    ‘02 SV650S
    ‘98 VFR

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  1. The clamps are fairly integral to the frame, in that you have to consider steering stops, steering lock, stem dimensions > bearing dimensions > head tube dimensions compatibility, along with offset and spacing numbers. It’s so much easier to stick with the original clamps and fiddle with what fits into them. You can fit 6th Gen clamps, with a minor adjustment to the steering lock location, which will allow 43mm fork options.
  2. https://www.facebook.com/groups/hondavfr800/?ref=share https://www.facebook.com/groups/vfrbuyandsell/?ref=share https://www.facebook.com/groups/vfrworld/?ref=share
  3. Nope. 6th Gen are different size from the 5th Gen. And, the 2002 is a 1yr-only component, different from the 2003 and onward bikes.
  4. You got very lucky, since that part number is NLA.
  5. He should know better, since he’s supposed to be a VFR suspension expert.
  6. F3 forks are a direct swap, tubes and all. AS3, of UK, have nice hose and “clip” kits, which can be bought from their eBay store. The VTR fan blade (part #19020-MBB-003) blows outward, which is better in mixed traffic and can improve system performance. You can add an additional fan to the right radiator. You’ll need to plan to replace the O-rings, throughout the system. A new thermostat, radiator cap, and coolant are essential. Valves are easy to check, but, making adjustments takes some technical know-how. Since you have the bike stripped, paying someone to do them would be more reasonable. Swap the head bearings to a tapered roller setup. Pyramid have them, in the UK.
  7. And, when I started putting it back together, I did it in reverse. Tip: Leave the throttle body assembly on the engine, when you lift the frame off. When you put it back together, put all that on top of the engine first, then, set the frame over it. This’ll save you from having to dick around with the insulator clamps, inside the frame.
  8. I literally rolled the engine around, while scrubbing on it.
  9. If you stick with a Honda rear master cylinder, it’ll be a straight swap. A rebuild kit is readily available at any OEM supplier. You don’t have to remove the engine to check valves. Since you’re into it that far, it’s only 5 bolts to lift the frame off the engine. I’d drain the coolant and oil, remove the radiators and swingarm assembly, disconnect the handful of electrical connections and throttle cables, set the engine down onto some blocks, remove the bolts, and lift the frame off. That’ll leave you with the engine and throttle body/airbox assembly sitting free. Then, you can really get to scrubbing on the engine, go through the cooling and electrical systems, etc. It’ll make things so much easier to work on. I was fighting my bike, until I gave in and lifted the frame off.
  10. Mine wasn’t in the best of shape, either. I took it down to the frame and went through everything, addressing every piece as I went. I still have a couple things left I want/need to do. But, I’ve already spent more than what I could’ve bought a new 8th Gen for. They’re 2-piston calipers, like most bikes of the era. Without the 3rd pistons that are part of the VFR’s LBS, the originals would be 2-piston, as well. I didn’t get too wrapped up in bolting on the biggest calipers I could, because there are racers pushing 2-piston setups way further than any VFR will ever see. They’re plenty to do the job. At 16K miles, my valves were perfect, so nothing needed. At 50K miles, I’ll check them, again.
  11. I just did research here and on VFRW, looking at simple to complex swaps. Then, I started searching eBay for those options, looking at availability and pricing. Lastly, I went to the bike breaker, who is local to me, and he happened to have F3 and F4 carcasses. Based on eBay prices versus what was locally available, the answer was quite obvious. The simplest solution was readily available and at the most affordable pricing, so I went F3. The aforementioned components I listed are what will most directly swap, using the most existing VFR parts. Even the VFR’s front master cylinder works with the F3 calipers. I did upgrade the shock, along with the fork internals. Every bike I own is setup this way.
  12. The simplest on a 5th Gen are F3 lowers, calipers, front brake lines, and front fender. You’ll need a 14mm rear master cylinder and custom brake line. Remove the rear caliper, drill a hole in the back of the center bore into the brake fluid passage for the outer bores, and plug the center banjo opening. Everything else on the VFR works, as is.
  13. ^^^ This is what you need to do. You’ve had decent suspension and, now, have that experience to compare to something stock. You’re never going to be happy with stock components, from now on. Just spend the money on Maxton internals. All my bikes have their front and rear suspensions reworked. It’s just a given, for me.
  14. In that case, it’ll be good to know exactly what you have. Martin Musil, at Traxxion, has done all my stuff, the last ~15yrs. How he setup my 5G: •Rate: 1.025kg/mm •Gap: 125mm •Oil: Maxima 7wt
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