ducnut

I don’t remember the BMX frames, but, do remember when FMF started getting into streetbikes and seeing their stuff on the grid at AMA rounds. I was a CW Racing fan and had a ZX Long. Loved their handlebars, too.

I love those cans. Memories of a heyday.

Other than the “1000” decal, I really like Steve Rapp’s bike.

Aprilia aren’t messing about. Their claimed weight is within a couple pounds, from what scales are showing. And, 73kw of power converts to ~98 crank hp and ended up being 87rwhp. The lightweight twins racers who’ve ridden it all say it’s going to be the bike to beat. They’re saying it’s the best chassis of anything in the class, by far. And, everyone says the bike is very comfortable, especially as an all-around bike. I have an opportunity to ride a dealer’s personal bike, as soon as he gets his, and looking forward to it. Between two dealers I know of, they’ve sold more than 30, already. Apri

SDP128 is the HH+ part number.

On my Silverado, I did Russel SS lines, EBC Extreme-Duty rotors, and Hawk Ceramic pads. Holy smokes! What a difference. Just the SS lines on the previous pads and rotors was a big difference; the brakes were so much sharper.

I have the same one. I’ve done several bikes and vehicles with it and it’s an excellent product.

Do the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit with mello dude’s plate and be done with it. VFRness is a waste of time.

A file, flap wheel, scotchbrite disc on an angle grinder, and buffer go a long way to cleaning up booger welds.

You’re best to install a Roadstercycle SH847 R/R Kit, ASAP. He offers an FH020 Kit, but, the SH847 is the one you want, as it’s Series circuitry and will help preserve your stator. The stator in your bike is a 1yr-only stator and no longer available from Honda. It’s worth the investment in the latest R/R technology to save what you have. Also, it’s advised to pull all the bodywork and go through every single connector, inspecting, cleaning, and applying something like Ox-Gard to them. I’d strongly consider going through the cooling system, replacing the thermostat, radiator cap, O-ri

I have Braking of Italy rotors on two bikes. They have a much higher coefficient of friction and are far superior to any factory rotor I’ve ridden. In addition, I use DP Brakes HH+ pads on everything and have yet to use a better, cleaner running pad.

Any Honda dealer can check on availability. My fuel pump was the last one in the USA. However, a few weeks later, they had 3 back in stock. The reason we later checked was to see if that part number went to the NLA list, like so many other 5th Gen parts.

The 5th Gen fuel pump assembly skyrocketed from ~$340 to almost $500. I got a new one from my dealer for cost+$15 and bought a used one off a FB group.

Evaporust works amazing, as well. It chemically transfers the rust molecules to the solution, without harming the metal.

The rust will come right back, because the rust molecules are in the pores of the metal. Blasting doesn’t remove stuff that small. Been there, done it.