ducnut

The govt quotes 900+ people moving into FL, everyday. Housing is 2-3 times the cost it used to be, a couple years ago. Property taxes are through the roof. Congestion is so bad I regularly sit through 3 stoplight cycles, just to get to the next stoplight and do the same. Congestion in retail stores is the same, coupled with the shelves being wiped out (which is another topic). People seem to have the attitude of “I’m not from here. I don’t know you. Fuck you!”. That attitude is in workplaces, in businesses, and on the roadways.

Unfortunately, I live too far down the coast of Floriduh and quit my job, 5wks ago. If I’m loading my trailer, it’ll be loading it out of this shithole.

Lightly apply fork oil to the tube and inside the seal, during assembly, so they’re not dry. You’ll have hella’ stiction, otherwise.

Yep. Tyga is all quality stuff.

All you need to look at is the merge collector and how the cylinder merges are arranged. Delkevic are a garbage header. Tuning would be beneficial, but, not necessary. Polished VFRD header, if you didn’t see it earlier in the thread. Still looks as good, today.

You TN/NC peeps need to figure out a Appalachian-based business all of us can work at, so we can always go riding. 😁

Go buy new bolts from Honda. They’re black; not brown. That’s what age, sunlight, and cleaner/chemicals do to the finishes.

Sounds like Michelin’s Pilot Power. Countless track crashes with very accomplished riders at the controls. I experienced it once and never rode them again.

Don’t order just any R/R. There are countless threads/posts on the topic, on this forum. Do your research.

Best to get a voltage reading at the battery, while the bike is running. It would seem, you have an overcharge situation.

Pretty certain they’re black zinc plated. There are silver, yellow, and green colors, too. You might find a home kit or will need a zinc plating company, otherwise.

Anytime you start blowing fuses, especially the 30A main fuse, you better be checking the running voltage at the battery OR directly out of the R/R (if possible). That’s always step #1.

It’s a very tight fit. Your tech shouldn’t have needed to cut anything, if the gasket is OEM. It takes a lot of patience, fiddling, and lube, to get them joined together. Likewise, it’s almost impossible to get them separated.

1st Gen ‘02, here.

I’ve seen the few posted on Killboy and thought they were pretty cool. That one seems pretty nice.

I’m not up on the regions/provinces.

As indicated by the “P” and RC49. GF is from San Policarpio. Still has a waterfront home on the beach, over there. I’ve never been, but, hoping to get a chance to visit and possibly think about part-/full-time residency, depending on how things go. It definitely be a lot cheaper than Florida, USA.

As Yokel mentioned, there are less expensive alternatives. You’d be amazed at what a set of valves, springs, and reshimming the valve stack can do for the frontend. My SV and VFR are both set up this way. Part of Traxxion’s installation expense involves the blueprinting of the frontend, which involves checking, straightening, and polishing the fork tubes, Showa bushings and seals, higher quality oil than OEM, etc. So, keep that in mind, when shopping/comparing others in the market. There’s a definite difference in what is being offered for the money. I’d highly suggest going with a basic, aftermarket shock of some sort, versus messing with any modifications/upgrades to the OEM piece. Where people fall into a trap is buying more shock than necessary. You don’t need double-adjustable, remote reservoir, remote preload, or any other whiz-bang extras. An aftermarket shock is going to arrive with a stiffer spring than the stocker could ever hope to achieve on preload. Therefore, you won’t be needing to constantly mess with the new shock’s preload. An aftermarket shock will come dyno-proven, so the out-of-the-box valving is already going to be way better than the OEM shock could ever be. These manufacturers have huge databases and know pretty well what will work, right off. So, there’s no real need for fiddling. My SV’s shock is just the basic Penske 8900, which is an emulsion shock, with a single adjustment and adjustable length. Compared to the 8983 on my VFR, it’s a wash, on the street. I’ve not messed with anything but length, on both shocks, as their valving feels about right. Keep it simple and keep the money in your pocket. Traxxion Dynamics used to offer specials, during the winter months/New Year timeframe. When I did my Tiger 1050, they had a special package where I got AK-20’s, springs, Penske 8983, and installation for $2K (~2010?). With the most recent service of my SV, I got special pricing on some of that work, as there were some updated bits available I moved up to. Likewise, I did the full suspension of my VFR and got some discounting. It just depends on how much work and the timeframe. I’d reach out to Dan and ask him about upcoming promotions.

Make sure to use the tapered bearing set; not the ball bearing set.

The Conti’s might not have enough carcass stiffness for the weight of that bike? Or, their belt layup may not be compatible with that chassis? If the K13 guys are doing well on the Dunlops, you should be OK, as well. Although, they’re on that funky frontend, which is probably immune to stability issues. I believe you installed OEM head bearings? I would’ve used the All Balls tapered bearing kit. They’re known to help cure shimmy, because the taper design adds preload to the bearing, without becoming notchy like a ball bearing will. I put them in every bike I own and they’re like butter. Traxxion uses tapered head bearings, as well.

Yep. Traxxion Dynamics are a great shop. Martin, there, has been doing all my stuff ~17yrs. Although, Max did the last service on my SV. I’ve had AK-20’s in two bikes and their Axxion valves in the other two. Three of them got 8983 shocks and one got an 8900. The cartridges are definitely more fluid, but, their valves are very good. Likewise, the 8983 offers more control than the the 8900, but, on the street, the 8900 is plenty for most riders. Having followed you on crap suspension, I’d probably let you go, now. Haha! Most shops don’t check fork tubes. Traxxion checks and polishes every single one. With my Daytona 675, I ran off track and found an eroded dip out in the adjacent field. My speed and that dip combined to bend both fork tubes. Martin found that on the lathe, then, proceeded to straighten them. That seemingly minor stuff sure makes a difference, with the end product. Dan has always been a great guy to work with. He never tries to upsell, either. My 5th Gen has an unconventional rear setup and he spent a lot of time looking at Penske options. In the end, Eric, at Penske, happily put some components together to give me the shock length I was looking for. Most shops would simply look at the Penske application guide and just tell me what’s listed is what’s available. The frontend is just Axxion valves and their springs, which is all I felt I needed for the street. I can’t thank Dan and Eric enough for their efforts. If we run across each other again, I’d like to swap bikes. I really want to try a 1200, especially one on good suspension. Edit: I see the tire shake is still an issue.

You can order directly from Galfer.

He rides the same route on every bike, so everything gets jumped. What’s interesting is some bikes bottom out very harshly, which would indicate a bike whose reaction to big bumps, potholes, etc, are going to be harsh. I view him doing that portion of the ride as a good thing. Then, there are these guys (JR at Cadwell Park):

Pit Bull is the standard to which all others are judged. They’re designed and manufactured by an aerospace dude, which is why they’re such high quality.

Yep. I look forward to watching their adventures. I’m so glad Revzilla picked up all three of them and are allowing them to do their creative thing.