ducnut

Hi ducnut, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

HEL make a kit.

Nearly all the Honda sporty bikes of that era used the same size master. That’s the one you need, as mentioned in the other thread you commented in.

Yep. Use the complete CBR master cylinder and just shorten the threaded rod. Did the same on mine and works perfect. For a reservoir, I just went to the bike breaker and found something smaller. I used Sebspeed’s adapters and Chinesium rearsets, for the rest.

As you may recall from my build, a VTR fan blade will reverse airflow and blow outward through your left radiator. It appears to be a more efficient design, as well. Also, my suspension was done by Traxxion with slightly more front spring rate and the same rear. Internet experts have claimed the rates are too stiff. Riding it proves otherwise. Like yours, it’s amazing.

Race Tech sell the Schrader valve to recharge an OEM shock. Most common spring rates I’ve seen are over 1000#. My Penske has a 1300# spring and is perfect for my fluctuating 200-220 pounds. You’re going to need to alter the valving, if you’re planning to change the spring. Not sure anyone will be giving up shim stack info for a specific spring. If it were me, I’d buy a YSS and be done with it. However, the shock will highlight how bad the frontend is and you’ll be needing to rework that, as well.

There’s a used set on the vfr800 buy/sell page on FB.

Staintune.

@Skids I hope there was an upgraded R/R somewhere in there? 😉

Yep. Tyga is all quality stuff.

All you need to look at is the merge collector and how the cylinder merges are arranged. Delkevic are a garbage header. Tuning would be beneficial, but, not necessary. Polished VFRD header, if you didn’t see it earlier in the thread. Still looks as good, today.

Not to get too off-topic, but, this was my little buddy, when I lived in Illinois. IMG_1716.MOV

I love my blue dash lights. I did white gauge faces, too

20-25mm F&R, depending on stiction. I did a quick check, when newly assembled, but, I’ve not bothered to check it since. Might be a bit more, now.

Yep. The heaviest Hyperco that’d fit the shock AND swingarm space. From what Eric Trinkley (Penske tech) told me, the VFR’s linkage ratio requires a heavier spring than one would normally think. And, the bike rides amazing. I have a buddy with a stock VFR, who spent a whole day on it, because he loves it so much. That day, I rode my SV, which is also outfitted with Martin and Eric’s work. Likewise, it’s fantastic to ride, though the lighter weight of the bike means it’s not quite as plush as the VFR. *Disregard the invoice’s model of shock, as it’s mounted on an 8983. And, it was built to a 6th Gen’s length, because I wanted to start with a longer shock body, to raise the rearend.

For reference, I’m on 1.05kg springs in the front and a 1300lb spring in the rear. The front has Traxxion Dynamics Axxion valves (simple setup) and the rear is a Penske 8983. Martin Musil, at Traxxion, has done all my stuff, the last 15yrs. The bike rides amazing. I don’t believe you’ll ever get the stock stuff to feel great. All my bikes have gotten Axxion valves or AK-20 cartridges and some variant of Penske. Once I rode decent stuff, I’ve never bought a bike without the thought of sending off the forks and buying a shock. The investment is so worth it. You can get into a custom-built Wilber’s fairly inexpensively and probably the best value going. There’s one on FB at £500, right now. For the front, just send them off. A good shop will put the tubes in a lathe, check runout/straighten, and polish them. Either Race Tech or Traxxion valves will be good. If the shop has a solid database, the valving should come back perfect. Develop a relationship with a suspension guy and you’ll always have someone who’ll know how you like a bike and set it up accordingly.

Unless the springs have been changed, I can’t believe they’re of the correct rate. Both ends are massively undersprung, stock.

Look into Core Moto, for future lines. When you go into their custom order page, you can choose every single aspect of your lines. Plus, the banjo fittings rotate 360°, so you can precisely position everything how you want. Mine shipped the same day. https://www.coremoto.com/category_s/4085.htm BTW, they make Ti banjo bolts. 😉

Just a cheap, eBay piece. I tried one on my 5th Gen.

Martin Musil, at Traxxion Dynamics, has been my go-to suspension tech, the last 15yrs. Eric Trinkley, at Penske, has built five shocks for me, over roughly the same time period. My bikes have always been perfect, regardless of any charts.

Yep, on the weight.

Some interesting numbers, on spring rates. I’m running 1.05kg with Axxion valves in the front and a 1300# spring on a Penske 8983 in the rear and the bike is fantastic.

Hi ducnut, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I went to a guy with 40+ years in the exhaust business. We probably spent 30min and countless passes, just working the expansion of my Staintune ever so slightly with each pass. Gotta’ be super-delicate with doing it.

If you’re shopping used R/R’s, you want a Shindengen SH847 off a 2014+ V-Strom 1000 (Suzuki part #32800-31J00). This will get you latest in Series R/R technology. Neither aforementioned R/R’s are plug and play. You’ll need to source the plugs and create a harness. I’d strongly suggest replicating the Roadstercycle harness and getting the charging circuit out of the main harness, as well as adding some form of circuitry protection. Using an SH847 and creating a harness like shown, utilizes the battery as a power bank for the bike to run on. This allows the SH847 to open/close the charging circuit as needed (the SH847 does not shunt), which is what allows the stator and R/R to run so much cooler.