ducnut

It’s the same shock. I’d strongly recommend getting it serviced by a Penske dealer, before continuing to use it. Protect what is an expensive shock. And, if you have the budget, get the forks reworked to match.

Yes. You want to remove the large nut, before doing anything else. Once you conquer that, then, move onto further disassembly. Pop the the snap ring off the eccentric and remove that, so you can clean all the junk out of the swingarm. This can present problems, as well.

It’s plainly stated in the EBC catalog, as attached below. I surmise, it’s because of differing compounds, pad thicknesses, and resulting performance differences. YMMV. Those pics are right after a complete disassembly and before getting it back on the road. However, despite being on the road for 6yrs, it’s still that clean. Unfortunately, salt in the air hasn’t been so kind to some of the finishes, like on the chain. I’ve moved back to Illinois and some touching up is on the agenda. You’re correct, sir.

Since the brakes are linked, it’s highly recommended to replace all three sets, together. I run Braking of Italy rotors, with DP Brakes pads.

I’d go with fully-sealed. Not all of Honda engineers’ ideas were good.

Unslip the slip joints a bit and get everything loose and floating. You’ll need to work your way around to each exhaust port, tightening a bit at a time. I don’t mean tightening the pipe all the way in; just equally moving each head pipe in, by using the nuts. While doing that, keep working the slip joint, incrementally moving it together. The gist is to equally move everything into place, until the headpipes are seated. I didn’t use a torque wrench and I’d suggest you don’t either. The studs are quite small and it doesn’t take much to damage them, strip them, or even pull a stud out of the head. Using just your hand, you can better feel when something is not right. The main thing is to just take your time and equally ease everything into place.

Don’t bother with Staintune. I used a FiveStar Mfg barrel clamp. WD40 liberally applied to the slip joint. You should know to never try and insert anything dry. The header shouldn’t be up against the swingarm.

Be extremely careful with the expanding. I took my header and Staintune to an OG exhaust dude, who gently expanded, rotated, gently expanded, rotated, etc. He probably spent 20 minutes on it, for fear of splitting it.

Since no one has responded, I’ll give my 2¢. When I tore down my 5th Gen, that heatshield and everything Honda has jammed into that space was a right PITA. The 6th Gen is a bit different, but, you still have to get all that out of the way. I'd strongly suggest you buy OEM Honda replacement studs and nuts and replace the original bits. This way, you’ll have no issues. Don’t be afraid of the braking system. Doing so will be at your peril. People avoid servicing the hydraulics on these bikes, because of the unknown. It’s the worst thing you can do, because the system will eventually fail, altogether. At that point, you’ll be chasing gremlins and searching for used replacement parts. You’re better off to be preventive. Just buy a vacuum bleeder and follow the service manual’s bleeding procedures and you’ll have no problems.

Iridium plugs in a 5th Gen? Oh boy!

This is the difference in using @SEBSPEED’s rearset adapters versus using the originals. The master cylinder is moved forward and I ran my brake line to the underside of the swingarm. Both help get the brake line away from the exhaust. And, it’s a cleaner, simpler look.

Not mine.

Hi ducnut, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

As you may recall from my build, a VTR fan blade will reverse airflow and blow outward through your left radiator. It appears to be a more efficient design, as well. Also, my suspension was done by Traxxion with slightly more front spring rate and the same rear. Internet experts have claimed the rates are too stiff. Riding it proves otherwise. Like yours, it’s amazing.

Race Tech sell the Schrader valve to recharge an OEM shock. Most common spring rates I’ve seen are over 1000#. My Penske has a 1300# spring and is perfect for my fluctuating 200-220 pounds. You’re going to need to alter the valving, if you’re planning to change the spring. Not sure anyone will be giving up shim stack info for a specific spring. If it were me, I’d buy a YSS and be done with it. However, the shock will highlight how bad the frontend is and you’ll be needing to rework that, as well.

There’s a used set on the vfr800 buy/sell page on FB.

Staintune.

All you need to look at is the merge collector and how the cylinder merges are arranged. Delkevic are a garbage header. Tuning would be beneficial, but, not necessary. Polished VFRD header, if you didn’t see it earlier in the thread. Still looks as good, today.

Not to get too off-topic, but, this was my little buddy, when I lived in Illinois. IMG_1716.MOV

20-25mm F&R, depending on stiction. I did a quick check, when newly assembled, but, I’ve not bothered to check it since. Might be a bit more, now.

Yep. The heaviest Hyperco that’d fit the shock AND swingarm space. From what Eric Trinkley (Penske tech) told me, the VFR’s linkage ratio requires a heavier spring than one would normally think. And, the bike rides amazing. I have a buddy with a stock VFR, who spent a whole day on it, because he loves it so much. That day, I rode my SV, which is also outfitted with Martin and Eric’s work. Likewise, it’s fantastic to ride, though the lighter weight of the bike means it’s not quite as plush as the VFR. *Disregard the invoice’s model of shock, as it’s mounted on an 8983. And, it was built to a 6th Gen’s length, because I wanted to start with a longer shock body, to raise the rearend.

For reference, I’m on 1.05kg springs in the front and a 1300lb spring in the rear. The front has Traxxion Dynamics Axxion valves (simple setup) and the rear is a Penske 8983. Martin Musil, at Traxxion, has done all my stuff, the last 15yrs. The bike rides amazing. I don’t believe you’ll ever get the stock stuff to feel great. All my bikes have gotten Axxion valves or AK-20 cartridges and some variant of Penske. Once I rode decent stuff, I’ve never bought a bike without the thought of sending off the forks and buying a shock. The investment is so worth it. You can get into a custom-built Wilber’s fairly inexpensively and probably the best value going. There’s one on FB at £500, right now. For the front, just send them off. A good shop will put the tubes in a lathe, check runout/straighten, and polish them. Either Race Tech or Traxxion valves will be good. If the shop has a solid database, the valving should come back perfect. Develop a relationship with a suspension guy and you’ll always have someone who’ll know how you like a bike and set it up accordingly.

Unless the springs have been changed, I can’t believe they’re of the correct rate. Both ends are massively undersprung, stock.

Just a cheap, eBay piece. I tried one on my 5th Gen.