vfrjim2002

their website works great: kn-204 The 303 will fit as well and is about 3/4" longer. If longer length == more media, that's may be worth a shot. I've used those and Mobil 1 M-110s along with a couple of Purolators. My wife's Maxima (VQ-35) uses the same filter and oil (RTS - T6).

I'm waiting for Tightwad to come up with an rig that will tap into the speed sensor and turn the fan off when road speed gets above 15-20 mph.

I think what you're seeing is due to the temperature of the air being forced over the radiator not whether that air is pushed or pulled. In stock configuration the fan pulls cool (relatively speaking) air from outside over the radiator and exhausts it into the engine compartment. The VTR reverses the direction of airflow, forcing superheated air from inside the engine compartment through the radiator. The delta T between engine compartment air and the radiator is much narrower than that between outside air and the radiator. Therefore, the VTR arrangement results in less heat transfered from the water to the air and less efficient cooling than the stock set up. I suspect that's exactly the reason the engineers designed it as they did. Once you're rolling all this changes. Now you have a supply of cooler air being introduced from the front and the fan is an active impediment to that air getting through the left radiator and while at the same time the fan is unable to draw air from the outside. The right radiator is unaffected, so the engine's still able to shed heat, but not enough because you've lost 40 to 50% of your cooling capacity. Some time back, some folks had success with a manual override to turn on the fan and also turn it OFF in exactly the situation we're talking about.

I've run Phillips Vision Plus (IIRC) in the stock wattages. for the last 25,000 miles and have no complaints. I have run higher wattages in the past and can attest to two things: - they run substantially hotter (I ran them in in a single head light set up in a metal shell/reflector. - they REQUIRE higher rated relays and heavier wireing. I used 12 ga. You might want to look at auxiliary lights instead.

I'm with everything Rob says, with one small exception: If you're interested in changing brake feel juggling mc to slave ratios is a good way to do it. If you the brakes are too sensitive you can move to a mc with a larger piston or a different lever leverage ratio. By the same token, if you want more sensitive (in a sense more powerful) brakes you can use a MC with smaller bore.

Another solution is something like this. http://www.strobesnm...-super-led.html It has 3 one watt leds in a weather proof housing with a built in flasher that lets you select between a half dozen flash patterns and retails for right at $40. It is BRIGHT. I have one on my KLR commuter/DS and have ordered another for the viffer to replace my hyperlights. The video on the web site gives you a pretty good indication of the what it does. My only qualification is the vid doesn't get across just hpw bright the thing is. Jim disclaimer: I have NO financial or personal interest in the vendor.

Great RR. Beautiful pictures. Glad the bike's working out.

How heavily does your engine brake? I suppose you could do this, but it might be easier to just lightly touch the front lever, no?