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CharlesW

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CharlesW last won the day on September 29 2012

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About CharlesW

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    http://charlesw_1998@yahoo.com
  • ICQ
    charlesw_1998@yahoo.com

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  • Location
    Ankeny, Iowa
  • In My Garage:
    2004 VFR800F

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  1. 127 downloads

    Since I seemed to be able to improve some areas of the mapping for my particular bike, I thought I would upload the map and make a few comments. 1. I really don't know what I am doing 2. If I can do it, anyone can 3. I figured the only way I could actually damage the motor was by leaning things out and it seemed like the areas I wanted to work on needed more fuel, not less. I figured that would only hurt economy which it did, but only a small amount. Probably less than 5%. 4. Bike is a 2004, stock exhaust, K&N, PAIR valves and Flapper valve disabled. Snorkle in place.
  2. I had the same basic idea but I didn't want quite that large of a wing. (FWIW, I don't consider plain silver to be ugly, just plain.) Also, not an Arai.
  3. Rosso: I can find the wings used by StillwaterVFR, but where do you find the ones you used?
  4. This may be the vendor you are referring to. I have no experience or knowledge about them, but I think a few members have used them with some success. http://www.fuelmotousa.com/power_commander.htm
  5. So..... Did you replace it with OEM, EMGO or K&N?
  6. Look again. Remove the rest of the screws and it will lift off. I think there is a total of 7 screws, 3 of which are not as easy to get to. Kind of toward the rear of the filter housing. Addendum: The pictures in the first post show the screw locations.
  7. CharlesW

    VFR800 03

    Looks pretty darn good to me. What more could you want?
  8. Thanks for all the replies! Since I'm one that really likes easy, this is good news for me. From now on, I'll try the #3 only method. Just spray the lube on the inside/top of the lower run of chain while still warm from a ride. Let it set for a few minutes, wipe off the excess using a rag on the outside/bottom of the lower run of chain and call it good. Off topic, but not much. Is there a way to tell if a chain is the original chain or if it has been replaced? Rivets different on the master link or anything like that. It is an RK chain.
  9. I can't imagine taking the time to put a drop of lube on each link.(Seems like it would need to be each roller, not each link) Doesn't the stock chain have something like 110 links?
  10. My chain lubing is done on the centerstand after a ride while the chain is warm. It is done in three steps. 1. Spray the inside 'O' rings and side plates 2. Spray the outside 'O' rings and side plates 3. Spray the inside rollers on the bottom run A good friend with many years of experience just does step number 3. He feels the lube is going to get to the 'O' Rings by migration and centrifigal force without all my messing around with the inside/outside lubing. Am I making it more work than is necessary?
  11. And just where can the unenlightened purchase this Emgo filter for that price?
  12. Yes, the term "optimisers" is not exactly accurate. They renamed them because many newer model bikes don't fall for the resistor-in-the-heater-circuit trick. So, Dynojet have two products - one is the resistor, and the other is an actual optimiser but they call them both the same thing. What the real optimisers do is take the O2 sensor signal and mess with it, so that when the bike's ECU thinks it's hitting 14.7 AFR it's actually hitting about 13.6 AFR. I believe they're simple voltage dividers which convert a signal of 0.75 volts from the O2 sensor into about 0.500 volts (which denotes 14.7 AFR). So the bike ECU sees 0.5 volts but in order to see that number it actually has to richen up the mixture so that it's *actually* creating a 0.75 volt reading from the O2 sensor. They do not offer this product for the VFR800 because the ECU in our bikes is so brain-dead it's easy to fool. In fact I think all the Honda systems are still dumb as dog crap. There are more advanced systems on the market (not from Dynojet) which replace the narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one, but include a calculated narrowband voltage output. These are nifty for engine tuning whilst keeping the closed loop capabilities of the stock ECU in place. Does that make sense? I'm sure it does to the more technically oriented members. Me, I just buy the plug-in stuff and hope I don't mess up plugging it in. That's the reason I went the Dynojet route for my O2 eliminators.
  13. And that's the information I was looking for! Thanks! The comments about the Dynojet Optimizers being prone to failure were making me somewhat paranoid. At least if they fail I will know it.
  14. Granted, most of the failures I have read about have been the Dynojet "optimizers". The Radio Shack resistor failure I remember was possibly because of using too small of a wattage resistor. Evidently the 330 ohm resistors are available in various wattages. I happen to have the Dynojet eliminators and have no problem at this time, but...... I would still like to know what if any indication you get if the modification does quit working.
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