thereisnospoon

I hear that. I didn't know a led projector was a thing... i may try those depending on how the cheapos i got work out. i haven't put in the second bulb yet. figure if the first one can survive a few hundred miles i'll add the 2nd one. they claim 30,000 hours but i don't know how many heat cycles that includes.

sorry, i can't figure out how to make the image smaller. comparison between the halogen and led.

Agree. an OEM LED setup is probably far better than slapping in LED bulbs into a housing that was designed with incandescent bulbs in mind. I see being more conspicuous more important than the beam to a certain extent - i want to be noticed more easily and if it's easier for me to see that's a bonus too. I need to take a run out at night where there isn't so much ambient light to see how they really do. it definitely doesn't help in all situations 😕 i don't want to blind people either, that is not a goal. when i've been out, i watch for a hand going towards their rear-view to flip it down and haven't seen one ... but also knowing that many modern rear view mirrors automatically darken when they see light from behind, so I worry a little less.

didn't come back with much, so if there is a relatively current thread please point me there! i recently put a cheap LED in one headlight socket but i'm keeping the other side a halogen since it's a known quantity. The led lights are cooled with heat sinks, not fans. to me passive > active in this case. the light output is a different shape, but the upper edge of the beam of the LED is completely parallel to the halogen, so in my case i'm not really worried about them blinding people the led just crushes the halogen. the set of LEDs are H4 and clipped off the bottom two prongs, which is what i've always done. I know there are motorcycle specific bulbs, but i haven't found them to be any more reliable than "automotive" so I don't mind using stuff off-label. I'm curious what others have learned!

Hello! I did a search, but couldn't find a thread that I could tack on to ... so. I recently put the set on that I've seen @Baileyrock and others rave about, the PP front and PR2 rear. Those were from old threads, and maybe there is a newer combo, but I liked the price of these tires and the reviews. The first time I turned out of my apartment complex, had a good wiggle because i had gotten used to the worn out BT016 (6400 miles to the rear chord) which required a little "shove" to get into a turn. This new combo is just bloody amazing to me for turning. it's like the brain is connected straight to the tires with nothing else in the way. Confidence inspiring. seams between road slabs, grooves, road crown, it all feels flat, it simply doesn't get out of shape. My question is about straight line stability. my bike is bone stock except for I put a 929 (or 954, whichever is the easy swap) shock on the back. ride height is the same, forks are factory height. tires are aired to the pressure on the chainguard, tires/wheels are balanced to within 1/4 oz, wheel bearings are good, tires are oriented the correct direction, no slop in the head bearings, 80,000 miles and reliable as a 500 lb rock. They're solid up to about 85-90 mph. after that, the bike feels somewhat unstable, it takes a little extra thought to keep it straight. it's nothing like a head shake, more of an uncertainty. Is this a characteristic - is there a trade off between turning ability (ability may not be the right word, something like that) and straight line stability? I don't really care in this case because I rarely have space to get to 100+, but I do when I have the opportunity. I haven't noticed this with previous sets of tires, but none turned like these do. So I'm curious, what are others' experiences with this? Thanks!

What have you found out?

i hear ya with the on/off throttle, it doesn’t have the forgiveness of carbs. from what others have said, the PC3 (spelling?) can soften this. i have all the slack out of the throttle cable(s) and it still requires a very light touch. one thing to keep in mind is to make sure you aren’t putting any body weight on your hands, this makes light control input more difficult - like blip-to-downshift. personally, i love the engine braking but i do dab the front brake lever to turn the brake light on to warn. what have you noticed in mileage change with your sprocket change?

https://shoraipower.com/ this shall solve your battery problems, get the one slightly heavier duty that will be below the stock replacement on the search results page. the part they say about the battery needing to "warm up" before starting is true, on the second crank you get full power.

I had this happen too. Replaced it with an ebay R1 reg and been good since then, it actually provides more stable voltage across the rev range and the heat sink is way bigger. You may need to drill one more mounting hole but I don't completely remember.

76,155 miles as of this morning :) replaced the r/r so far and check valves occasionally (always measure within range). that's been it. clutch travel is getting a little short so i guess eventually something has to wear.

Gorgeous bike! Can these fuel mapping changes get rid of the "on/off" feel between 0% throttle and 1% throttle? I don't know how else to describe it.. as soon as I crack the throttle open at any speed in any gear, there is no "softness" of fuel delivery like there is with a carb'd bike.

Thank you all for the suggestions! here's my slow progress... 1. new, soft, Superbike grips - and i hadn't realized how worn and thin my old ones were :/ 2. covered them with grip puppies - the increase in grip size is great and they're really soft - i found the easiest way to install these is to: cut to length, roll them up like a... well it ends up looking like a doughnut, work the doughnut over the end of the grip, unroll towards the center just like a.. doughnut. Of course I did 1 and 2 at the same time, so I just have the sum, but it's far better. 3. steering head bearings - i replaced the original ball bearings with roller bearings about 25k ago and have checked them a few times since (once for a fork rebuild). the originals had a slight detent right in the center which is now gone and smooth. 4. bar ends - I imagine the rubber in these wears over time so they may be worth replacing. when i put pinky and ring fingers over the bar end weights though, they're-a-buzzin compared to the grip. I'll look into heavier ones though. I need to go through the manual and see how to remove them 5a. i loosened my gloves. i prefer gloves with long gauntlets but may have had them too snug. they're a little looser now but certainly won't fall off. 5b. i didn't change anything with my jackets, but i do pay attention to them more now and wriggle around if i notice any tension or tightness in my shoulders. also re-adjusted my backpacks a little 6. avatar description fixed :/ how many years... So .. to do... 1. balance throttle bodies - it's been a while and they always need a little adjustment. I noticed there is a particular vibration at 4000 rpms, +- a few, i'm avoiding this range now and it helps. 2. re-balance front wheel - i need to replace pads anyway, so while i have the front wheel off, i'll balance it and replace the wheel bearings. this set of tires only has a couple thousand miles but worth a re-balance. 2a. same as above, i'll re-balance it. 3. I need to replace my gloves, the left has a nice hole in the palm. they're sedici so the exchange is free (frequent too) and i'll see if they have others with thicker palms 4. ugh. x-rings are burned out of my master link. chain/sprockets are only about 5k old but the master has to go. i do keep it lubed and adjusted It's possible that one aggravation is that I always ride with my pointer and middle fingers over the brake and clutch. so they are always absorbing a little vibration through the levers. I might see if I can find a little sleeve of foam to cover them.

omg how did i not think of googling for shit? "what is your take" - that's the sort of question you ask when you're looking for personal experiences. but thanks for your grade A+ commitment to providing useful input and getting another post count. to clarify for you, i climb and ride. neither am i willing to give up without a fight. this is why i come to a forum like this to find out if others (see above replies to learn) have had any sort of similar experiences or knowledge that i can learn from. i don't mind throwing money at this but i'm going to try to learn from others along the way. 1. laterally sliced squishy grips 2. look at dirt bike grips 3. heavier bar ends 4. and a link to the first thing everyone found.

i didn't know that was an option! thank you. i'll look into it. yes, just a change may help.