CharlesW

I had the same basic idea but I didn't want quite that large of a wing. (FWIW, I don't consider plain silver to be ugly, just plain.) Also, not an Arai.

Rosso: I can find the wings used by StillwaterVFR, but where do you find the ones you used?

This may be the vendor you are referring to. I have no experience or knowledge about them, but I think a few members have used them with some success. http://www.fuelmotousa.com/power_commander.htm

So..... Did you replace it with OEM, EMGO or K&N?

Look again. Remove the rest of the screws and it will lift off. I think there is a total of 7 screws, 3 of which are not as easy to get to. Kind of toward the rear of the filter housing. Addendum: The pictures in the first post show the screw locations.

Thanks for all the replies! Since I'm one that really likes easy, this is good news for me. From now on, I'll try the #3 only method. Just spray the lube on the inside/top of the lower run of chain while still warm from a ride. Let it set for a few minutes, wipe off the excess using a rag on the outside/bottom of the lower run of chain and call it good. Off topic, but not much. Is there a way to tell if a chain is the original chain or if it has been replaced? Rivets different on the master link or anything like that. It is an RK chain.

I can't imagine taking the time to put a drop of lube on each link.(Seems like it would need to be each roller, not each link) Doesn't the stock chain have something like 110 links?

My chain lubing is done on the centerstand after a ride while the chain is warm. It is done in three steps. 1. Spray the inside 'O' rings and side plates 2. Spray the outside 'O' rings and side plates 3. Spray the inside rollers on the bottom run A good friend with many years of experience just does step number 3. He feels the lube is going to get to the 'O' Rings by migration and centrifigal force without all my messing around with the inside/outside lubing. Am I making it more work than is necessary?

Thank you!I am now enlightened.

And just where can the unenlightened purchase this Emgo filter for that price?

Yes, the term "optimisers" is not exactly accurate. They renamed them because many newer model bikes don't fall for the resistor-in-the-heater-circuit trick. So, Dynojet have two products - one is the resistor, and the other is an actual optimiser but they call them both the same thing. What the real optimisers do is take the O2 sensor signal and mess with it, so that when the bike's ECU thinks it's hitting 14.7 AFR it's actually hitting about 13.6 AFR. I believe they're simple voltage dividers which convert a signal of 0.75 volts from the O2 sensor into about 0.500 volts (which denotes 14.7 AFR). So the bike ECU sees 0.5 volts but in order to see that number it actually has to richen up the mixture so that it's *actually* creating a 0.75 volt reading from the O2 sensor. They do not offer this product for the VFR800 because the ECU in our bikes is so brain-dead it's easy to fool. In fact I think all the Honda systems are still dumb as dog crap. There are more advanced systems on the market (not from Dynojet) which replace the narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one, but include a calculated narrowband voltage output. These are nifty for engine tuning whilst keeping the closed loop capabilities of the stock ECU in place. Does that make sense? I'm sure it does to the more technically oriented members. Me, I just buy the plug-in stuff and hope I don't mess up plugging it in. That's the reason I went the Dynojet route for my O2 eliminators.

And that's the information I was looking for! Thanks! The comments about the Dynojet Optimizers being prone to failure were making me somewhat paranoid. At least if they fail I will know it.

Granted, most of the failures I have read about have been the Dynojet "optimizers". The Radio Shack resistor failure I remember was possibly because of using too small of a wattage resistor. Evidently the 330 ohm resistors are available in various wattages. I happen to have the Dynojet eliminators and have no problem at this time, but...... I would still like to know what if any indication you get if the modification does quit working.

Having read a few posts about O2 sensor eliminator failure, I have a question. If they do fail, (Dynomax or Radio Shack Resistors), will you get a FI light telling you something is not right?? My question pertains to a 2004, but I would think it would apply to any year with factory O2 sensors that have been eliminated.

You can download the software and several maps from the Dynojet site. http://www.dynojet.com/ You can also download Cozye's map here at VFRD. It seemed like there was little or no interest in my original post so I didn't bother to post any follow-up. Probably should have. Anyway, I'm running Cozye's map with the buttons/lights in the neutral position. I tried leaning the PC by one bar in the two lower ranges and felt like it made the throttle response a little more abrupt. I didn't like it so one short test ride and back to the neutral position. Never bothered to leave it long enough to check mileage. FWIW, install Cozye's map and leave things alone. Throttle response is great, mileage is in the 40+ range when cruising which is about the same as it was stock. It is easy to drop it into the 30's with aggressive riding. There again, that happened with the stock set-up. Keeping out of the Vtech seems to be the best way to improve mileage. Easier said than done.

Thanks for the reply. If there was no activity on the site, I would agree with what you are saying, but the thread has had over 90 views with one response. It isn't like no one has read the post. Just that no one but you responded. I would be very interested in any posts that went over actual results of using the buttons to tweak/over-ride the PC map. Most of the posts I found about face plate buttons were my own and I know I don't know what I am talking about. If you are referring to posts about how to access and use the face plate buttons, I feel comfortable with being able to do that. What I was really wondering was what the results were. Looks like I will have to do my own experimenting when better weather returns.

70 views and no response. So.... Let me try this again and see what I am doing wrong. Has no one tried using the face plate buttons? Seems easy to do, easily reversible, doesn't change the original map. Am I missing some reason not to do it? Is this an idea that I should just forget? While no one trying it isn't a complete surprise, (I really did think someone would have), no comments at all was a surprise. I felt at least a few opinions would be voiced. It's going to be rainy and cold here for a week, but I think I will give it a try when the weather breaks. A short ride should be enough to see what happens to performance. If all seems good, one tank of gas should answer the fuel consumption question.

In one of his posts, Cozye mentioned slightly leaning out his map settings when running stock exhaust. Anyone tried doing this with the PC Face Plate Buttons? Looks like it would be easy to lean the low and medium rpm range 2 percent. Might improve gas mileage somewhat without adversly affecting performance. 2004 with: K&N, O2 Eliminators, stock exhaust, Pair Valves disabled, PC III USB running Cozye's map, too much time to think.

:fing02: While I am not likely to ever replace my own clutch or make a clutch cover with a window, the writeup and pictures are absolutely great. Well done!

The PR3 is available in the "B" rating just like the PR2. **Note: The size denoted by "B" is designed for loaded touring or two-up riding