vfrjim2002

their website works great: kn-204 The 303 will fit as well and is about 3/4" longer. If longer length == more media, that's may be worth a shot. I've used those and Mobil 1 M-110s along with a couple of Purolators. My wife's Maxima (VQ-35) uses the same filter and oil (RTS - T6).

I'm waiting for Tightwad to come up with an rig that will tap into the speed sensor and turn the fan off when road speed gets above 15-20 mph.

I think what you're seeing is due to the temperature of the air being forced over the radiator not whether that air is pushed or pulled. In stock configuration the fan pulls cool (relatively speaking) air from outside over the radiator and exhausts it into the engine compartment. The VTR reverses the direction of airflow, forcing superheated air from inside the engine compartment through the radiator. The delta T between engine compartment air and the radiator is much narrower than that between outside air and the radiator. Therefore, the VTR arrangement results in less heat transfered from the water to the air and less efficient cooling than the stock set up. I suspect that's exactly the reason the engineers designed it as they did. Once you're rolling all this changes. Now you have a supply of cooler air being introduced from the front and the fan is an active impediment to that air getting through the left radiator and while at the same time the fan is unable to draw air from the outside. The right radiator is unaffected, so the engine's still able to shed heat, but not enough because you've lost 40 to 50% of your cooling capacity. Some time back, some folks had success with a manual override to turn on the fan and also turn it OFF in exactly the situation we're talking about.

I've run Phillips Vision Plus (IIRC) in the stock wattages. for the last 25,000 miles and have no complaints. I have run higher wattages in the past and can attest to two things: - they run substantially hotter (I ran them in in a single head light set up in a metal shell/reflector. - they REQUIRE higher rated relays and heavier wireing. I used 12 ga. You might want to look at auxiliary lights instead.

I'm with everything Rob says, with one small exception: If you're interested in changing brake feel juggling mc to slave ratios is a good way to do it. If you the brakes are too sensitive you can move to a mc with a larger piston or a different lever leverage ratio. By the same token, if you want more sensitive (in a sense more powerful) brakes you can use a MC with smaller bore.

Another solution is something like this. http://www.strobesnm...-super-led.html It has 3 one watt leds in a weather proof housing with a built in flasher that lets you select between a half dozen flash patterns and retails for right at $40. It is BRIGHT. I have one on my KLR commuter/DS and have ordered another for the viffer to replace my hyperlights. The video on the web site gives you a pretty good indication of the what it does. My only qualification is the vid doesn't get across just hpw bright the thing is. Jim disclaimer: I have NO financial or personal interest in the vendor.

Great RR. Beautiful pictures. Glad the bike's working out.

How heavily does your engine brake? I suppose you could do this, but it might be easier to just lightly touch the front lever, no?

Very impressive work there Roy. The bike looks great. I've always harbored latent desires to do something like this and always talk myself out of it. (Almost certainly will do so again :pissed: ) Regardless, if you don't mind expanding a little, how did you set up the front wheel? I'm assuming you used an R1 unit, did you encounter any issues with spacing and the like and what did it take to get that sorted? thanks.

I keep saying I'm going to stock up on the Blackstone kits, but never follow through. The story of my life. :unsure: As to the change intervals, as little as riding as I've gotten done in the last year or so, I've been running out the clock on the oil before I hit the mileage limits.

Can I assume RTS= Rotella T Syn? :thumbsup: You betcha. :thumbsup:

I always advise caution when a customer ask about Shell's Rotella T... since diesels engines live at the slow end of the rpm scale I'm not sure that the additive package is suited for rigors of an high revving motorcycle engine... I'm speaking of the anti foaming additives that are important to us due to the high RPMs that can cause cavitation which will starve bearings from necessary lubrication... In order to hold cost to a minimum Shell's chemical engineer only adds what is necessary and anti foaming additives are not important in a slow turning diesel... Well the Shell Rotella T syn. also exceeds all API "S"requirements asked for by Honda(SF/SG) and meets every level except the newest SM standards and also has the highest API C ratings with a CI-4 Plus rating. I could be wrong, but I can't see where this oil is lacking anywhere except in additive pkgs that prolongs CAT life. I'm learning! :thumbsup: One of the ironies in Larry's argument is that ScootR's impressive research was based entirely on diesel engines. I never was quite sure what to make of it in a world where engines that spin 5 times as fast. Personally, I've run several oils in the VFR and my 4 wheeled fleet and have always come home to RTS. In the bike I've run both grades of M1 bike oil, M1 red cap, M1 gold cap, Delvac 1, M1 Truck and SUV, and GN4 (for the first 50 miles) and based on engine temps, shifting smoothness (over time), engine/trans noise, and engine hygene RTS has seemed to be the best package. I've seen a few UOAs out of other bikes (no VFRs and I've not done one myself but probably should) that suggest it may not be wise to run it much beyond 4k miles in a bike, but I tend to change at 3,500 to 4,000 anyway so no biggie. The cage story is similar. My wife's Maxima seems to love the stuff. At 70k miles I took a shot at using that trick German Castrol stuff. I was adding about a half quart per 3.5k OCI. Went back to RTS. Zero consumption over a 4k to 4.5k OCI and it seems to run a bit quieter. My old Integra loved the stuff. 90k miles on M1 red cap had left a very light film of varnish under the valve cover. 20k on RTS cleaned that off. When the car died at 170k miles at the hands of a certain unlicensed, uninsured redlight runner a kid bought the engine and stuffed it in a CRX and it's still (ticking) scratch that, purring would be better. It didn't run at vfr revs but it spent a lot of it's life between 5 and 7k. I'm quite happy with the stuff.