wera803

If you need help, let me know. I work with a couple of designers that draw parts on a daily basis and don't care to "own" the file. I have had one of them do some side work for me in the past for minimum compensation.

Do you have a CAD drawing for these? I know I've read through this whole topic over time, but don't remember if you have one or not. If so, I have a couple of local places I could get quotes for you too if you want to compare prices. Georgia might be a bunch cheaper than Cali.Ok, just went back though the thread and see that you do have CAD drawings, or at least the original ones. Have they been updated with the improvements?

I've been happy with the EBC HH pads on my 5th gen. I also have the SS lines and Galfer wave rotors though. I have 73k miles on mine and bought it with 2900. The calipers or master cylinders have never been rebuilt. I clean the caliper pistons before pushing them back in when changing pads, but I've never disassembled them.......probably should one of these days but I just got done with the SS lines and really don't want to go through bleeding those again for a while. I know my brakes don't work that well when cold. The first stop or two coming out of the driveway is definitely not great. After they get some heat in them, they work well enough. Not like the VFR1200 brakes, or even my GSXR600, but fairly decent. Not sure if you will get more feel out of a bigger master cylinder or not. Maybe because it is a radial one, but normally you get less travel, stiffer lever, and worse feel with a larger diameter (unless of course your pistons are designed for the larger M/C). Guess it is all in your definition of better feel.

I agree with CornerCarver. I ran Mobil 1 red cap in my VFR for years and years. I thought the shifting was kind of notchy, so put in the Factory Pro kit. It helped some, but still wasn't what I thought it should be and would get worse as it got closer to an oil change. I just learned to live with it. Last year after riding the bike for 10 years, I switched brands of oil and all of the sudden the thing shifts butter smooth. Shame on me for waiting so long to try something different. Everyone talked about how great the red cap stuff was, so I figured the shifting issue was just my bike.

I bought Radar's frame sliders, drilled holes in the fairings to install them, then stood back and said WTF? Those big old Corbin Beetle Bags are going to slide across the pavement before anything else touches.

Me either. I normally just get the bike tumbling and screw up the front, back, and both side.

:cheerleader: :cheerleader:

If you really have to have a secondary lock on it, a worm clamp works perfect. I've never had one on my truck in 12 years, but did put one on the bike. Not really sure why since I've never had an issue.

I am one of the Fumoto users. I have them on my truck, GF's car, and both VFR's in the garage. While they may drain a little slower, I normally just make sure the bike is warm and open the valve into a drain pan, THEN pull the fairing, oil filter, etc. while it drains. By the time I am done, the oil is just about done too.

I've been using OEM BMW grips per this thread. I've been happy with them. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/57803-bmw-sport-grips/

Are you interested in one that is rashed, but does not leak to put on your bike until Seb can do another batch of window covers? You could send your broken one to him for the work and not have your bike down. PM me if you are interested.