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Welcome back, and a fellow "R" owner to boot! Very nice collection of bikes, and your garage is immaculate. That's a lot of track suits in the back, guessing that's part of the collection. Took one of my R's from Maine to Calf and back via western NC and 129, 215, Wayah Rd, and other usual suspects. 8,000 miles in all. Body hurt first 2 days I almost turned around. After the third and riding in NC, I was good. Capable bike in the twisties, surprisingly OK on the highway. Was running a 150/60 on the rear, so dropped a tooth on the rear sprocket to kinda make up for the smaller od than the originals 140/80. Only thing nag about is they should have put a 6 speed tranny in it. Honda had a 6 speed in the 1100 Sabre/Magna with similar engine architecture, but I guess the chain drive revolving the opposite direction was to much of an ask to resolve. I'll have to look up your channel, sounds interesting!

Pictures are worth a thousand words; I was interested in your Ohlins reservoir mount which is very neat. I have a similar reservoir for the Nitron shock in my 5th gen, and ended up relocating that to the side of the subframe where your RB module is sitting. Not ideal for access but nice and secure.

Those look like typical auto parts store splices. I have used much better quality, and they still failed. I finally just got a whole new harness from Eastern Beaver so it's all one piece from stator to R/R. De-soldering, and re-soldering was required at the stator itself. I also routed the harness as far from the frame/subframe, and exhaust as I could since they get quite hot.

That would not be my first choice for mounting due to heat from the exhaust.

Welcome back! I see you also have a nice collection of hollow bodies goin' on there. I have more guitars than bikes, but I've been playing longer than I've been riding. I also don't have near as much garage space. Nice shop!

I'm new to the world of VFRs with a 99. Looking to set it up for touring. I have two right helibars (HB01004) and desperately need a left only. I'm also looking for reasonably priced passenger grab rails. If you have a deal on some kind of luggage setup for a 5th gen I'd love to hear it too, TIA

Hi folks, I was gone from this forum for a long time, and was recently invited back by a fellow member. Since I now have a VFR again, it seemed a good time to pop back in. Im retired, and spend my time now doing a bit of farming and riding /restoring/collecting bikes Currently 15 bikes in the fleet, one of them an 85 VF1000R. I have my own youtube channel. "True-Moto-Resto" where I document all my motorcycle resto's and various goings-on. Thanks for having me back, here are a few pics of my collection... the difference between a hoarder and a collector is the illusion of organization

Today I started with some riveting to mount the Rapid Bike 'ECU' on the right side of the rear subframe: For those not aware: I bought the 6th gen kit and are adjusting it to my 5th gen. So, I tried routing the grey connectors (Injection and T.P.S.) towards the left front... as expected too short (when cable connected to Rapid Bike 'ECU'. I ordered connector and pins for the elongation at the Rapid Bike 'ECU' side, so that should solve that. Since having placed the Rapid Bike 'ECU' on the right, the cabling needs to traverse from left to right. There seemed to be room 'in front' of the battery / the original fuse box, but I had to remove the clock fuse holder (doable, but not super easy) to allow the Rapid Bike cabling to pass. <more tomorrow, my battery is low>

Took the rear caliper off as I noticed rear brake was weak at the end of last year. Fixed a stuck piston and cleaned and greased pins. Went forward and serviced both front calipers also.

Quick update. i took out the block and crimped the wires together. Tried to solder but didnt work 🤷‍♂️ The light no longer shows up during idle, over 4000rpm OR when i pull the front brakes. Instead it turns hard on when out on it for 3 ish minutes and then stays. If I turn the lights down it goes away. Which makes this much less farfetched. Ill have a look at the thread you posted 📫 Good shout. Im going to get around to these bits as soon as I can 🤘

Cleaned and rebuilt slave cylinder, ebc springs, still slipping. Aramid fiber frictions on the way, anything I should know about breaking in? (Besides the odd friction plate in the back)

Great description, thanks!

Looking for something else I found this post of mine in the ancient history file (thank you Miguel). It's twisting around in my brain, and I will update soon... July 2017: Last week I bought a time machine at Costco, so this morning I set the dial to five years in the past so I could talk to my 2012 self: Me: Hey, good news. You’re going to own two bikes. And at the same time! 2012 Me: Wow, that’s great! I guess that means I’m going to be divorced, huh? Me: No, but the bathroom will be significally better looking. 2012 Me: Whew! So, what kinda bikes? Me: Well, they’re both v-twins. 2012 Me: Damn, that sucks. I guess now you’re going to tell me that I’ll trailer them to Sturgis wearing my licensed orange and black lifestyle outfit. Excuse me, I have to go jump off a bridge. Me: No, no wait! It’s not that bad. But you will finally jump onto the ADV bandwagon. A Multistrada. 2012 Me: But why? The last year I didn’t own a VFR was 1985! Me: Well, Honda will detune the 1200 to make an ADV. And they will bring back the 800 as a really sweet-looking 8th gen. But over the next few years Honda falls way, way behind the Europeans in electronic rider aids. After almost 50,000 great miles your decision will be to invest a lot of time and money to upgrade the 7th gen, or trade it. And the new KTM SD GT will just be too damn ugly. 2012 Me: OK, I guess I get it. At least I don’t become one of those geeks that wears an Aerostitch suit all the time. Me: No comment. 2012 Me: What else happens in the future? A Honda V4 superbike? Me: Nope. But be careful what you wish for, that’s divorce court for sure. 2012 Me: And I guess Buell goes under again? Me: Of course. 2012 Me: Any more advice from the future? Me: Well, if you park the VFR in Calistoga in 2015 try to keep the bike upright, OK? Just minor plastic damage but a tipover will really make you feel like an idiot. And paying up front for a Fusar might not be the best decision. Any advice for me from 2012? 2012 Me: Umm…no offense intended but you might want to hit the treadmill a little more often. Me: Hey, you’re me, deal with it. Anything else? 2012 Me: Well, you’ve never owned a 5th gen…

Wow, that's some nice work!

RS3s would be a good choice then

Scooched the VFR over to give me more room for a VTX fork seal/bushings replacement.

If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Start with inspecting and measuring the friction plates to make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual should state minimal clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... Next remove oily contaminants with Acetone... Bust the glaze with a sheet of 600 grit black dry emery paper resting on a hard surface... rotate the clutch plate in a circle motion... go easy... you're just busting the surface glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Finally check the steel plates for bluing caused by localized heat... check for warpage... consult the manual for ranger of thickness... flush away the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheel the surface to erase the blue marks and also to generally scuff up the surface... all in all aim for a dull surface free of Blue marks... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage...

Assembled the custom fuse box and tried it on the bike. Some minor things that I like to improve, but overall it tested well. The Rapid Bike My Tuning O2 sensor is powering up after 2 minutes after the rest has been turned on (which is switched by rear tail light).

Understood. My 5th gen water pump does indeed have a Yamada logo. Next to the "MV9" PCN, which is also present on the casting, which tells us that Honda first contracted with Yamada Manufacturing to provide this design of water pump for the 1992 CBR600F. Interesting! Ciao, JZH

Thanks, didn't think about that, I'll have a look at the gasket before i disassemble cover and will locate my scraper before i start 🙂 I'm considering if i'll just order the metal plates too since i've had the clutch slipping, they're only 35EUR for a set and the bike is already a long distance runner.

Ok, lets remember back a litte for a change.... I did go thro old pictures today, found many I belived where gone for good.... Back in time I did get a bike for my former wife, it was cheap and beaten but did tecnichally run, a 1985 Suzuki GSX550E There was also a half faired GSX550ES as full faired GSX550EF for sale, they look batter than the E that has a thruly ugly top fairing, it had to go, paint was tired so it got painted, seat cover changed, exhaus was rotten so found a Micron 4-1 nos exhaust system. Result: It was ridden a few years, then did just stand, pictures taken for the add, it had a old Yuasa battery that was flat as low on water after 4 years of sitting, added water as charged it and it started the bike a week later still! It was actually quit a fun bike to trash, I did ride it quit much myself actually. I guess the engine is what became the Bandit engine later, it was actually 572cc even model name say 550. A other bike I recall, that I never owned but was close to buy / trade the VF500F2 for was this: A 1993 Honda CBR900RR, I did pass becorce it had a running issue, a few marks from a fall as ride position was not so comfortable, but it would have been wise to do the trade as keep it, there value are just going up.... Instead I traded the VF500F2 for this (trad so I got a bit money in pocket as well) 1991 VFR750F, sadly it had a issue, the engine knocked on lower rpm, sounded like a con road bearing, probarly reason for it was former had put in thin synthetic oil in it beliving he gave it the best but it just cleaned the engine and stuck the oil flood it seems, well it moved one, but it was one of the best motorcycle I owned, not the fastest, but enjoyable to ride as good looking even would have looked better in red!

Hardest part will be scraping gaskets. If not replacing metals, scuff them radially then clean them real good. Soak the new fibers overnight in some oil.

My -97 VFR750 clutch has started to slip at full throttle, it's got 80k kms / 50k miles on the meter, clutch is easy to maneuver and operation is smooth so I guess the hydraulics are ok and my plan is to replace the clutch discs. I bought a kit with new gasket, springs and friction plates, downloaded the service manual from here, (thanks a lot for that!). The job seems pretty straight forward, but i haven't tried it before, are there difficulties that might occur or special tools needed? Do you have any tips and pointers for doing the swap? Clutch center has a special locknut tool but it seems that normally it wouldn't need to be disassembled in order to change the discs.

While waiting for spacers to Zephyr rear wheel as a right camshaft for the RC24 (the one I bought turned out to be wrong, more info in my other topic), I decided to look into the friends FZ750, a 1986 edition, whit running issues. I had already checked the pickup coli's as slightly out of spec, but better go through it properly so did take sparkplugs out, not looking good! Before taking them out I cleaned the drain holes that have a indicator of what to come as cleaned the holes where sparkplug is as good as I could whit air pressure. Also one sparkplug caps was loose.....