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I finally rode today, I pressurized the front lever and I opened the master cylinder banjo bolt a tiny bit to bleed it from the top and it really helped. I'll wait for the banjo bolt with a bleeder to finally complete the fix.

Yeah, kinda "the Hood" choice of rotor palette presentation. But, I've had that paint sitting around for a while after buying it for a non motorcycle project. The paint I use on my rims takes about a week to cure, and well, idle hands and a desire to use the can before it's use by date.......... Honestly thought it would be a little less Mr. T after I installed them.😁

Gotcha. I ordered a new battery, it’s currently a no-start even with the old battery so I am hoping that I will be able to get it to at least crank the starter motor with a fully charged battery.

I would first charge the battery, let it sit for a while and then check voltage. It should be around 12.8V or above. If not the battery is likely bad and should be replaced. If voltage is OK install the charged battery, try to start the bike and if it does measure voltage at around 5000rpm, it should be >14V. If not check the charging system. If the battery is dead it does stall the engine at idle as then the stator doesn' t produce enough electrical energy to drive the fuel pump, injectors, ignition and lights etc.

I threw it on a trickle charger earlier this morning, the battery is only a year old. It could very possibly be a weak battery, however it wouldn’t explain why it essentially stalled itself out in an intersection, or why the starter motor will not even crank. Either way, the cheapest point to start at is ordering a new battery. Even if the battery was dead, would that stop it from a bump start?

The video shows otherwise. 12.1V is not a fully charged battery. With a bad battery and the engine idling the stator doesn' t produce enough energy to keep the engine running. Or the battery is fine but does not get charged: same result.

What could even be causing this massive drain? (The fuel pump seems to re-prime every time I tap the starter.) Bear in mind, the bike shut off with a “CLUNK” as if it had stalled… IMG_8007.mov

I can hear the fuel pump prime, so im just not sure what the issue is. The starter motor won’t even crank, it just clicks so im a little worried…

^^^^What are those blingy rotor bolts Maine? I like... 😊

I don’t think it’s that as they were rubbing consistently. Anyway just got to Wales and the bike has been solid over 220 miles 👍🏻

As stated. Don't need rotors or bearings, but fine if included. Off on a trip for 10 days, so may take a day or two to get back to you. Thanks Michael

Hi, I just saw the introduction of Rapidbike Evo 2 and Racing 2 and wondered if they are (or planned to be) available for 5th Gen?

Replaced my front wheel bearings. A trip in early May to the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia took a toll on my front rim. When I replaced my tires last Sept. I inspected the rims and bearings carefully as the bike was new to me. With only 11.5K on the bike they were as they should be. I knew I put a dent on the front while I was in Nova Scotia. as I also blew my right fork seal. I put the bike away for June and July, had a lot going on. In August, tucked into the front end to find the front rim had not 1, nor 2 dents, but 3. The left fork seal was shot to boot. Having gone through this with my 4th Gen 10 years ago, I figured the bearings were toast. I had seals and bearings on hand, until I went to install the bearings, they were for my 3rd Gen..... .🙃, so had to order a set. Anyway, some pics, because if not, it never happened. The right bearing was chowdered. Edit: For the record, the last picture is from 10 years ago and what your front bearing on your 4th Gen looks like after it disintegrates at 65 mph on the highway. I keep a close eye on my bearings now.😁

Unless the ECU is telling the fuel system to pump you’ll never bump start it

Looks pretty nice in the tank, no sign of any corrosion inside. This bike sat outside for at least 2 years, looks like maybe salt spray got to it. The corrosion while not unexpected is more widespread than I had hoped. Still looks like a clean and straight chassis and the motor sounds great but without a cooling system I have limited my enthusiasm there. I just fitted the radiator so as soon as I get the missing hose and the forks I could take a sneaky ride..

Well the Red RC24 finally in garage to get exhaust mounted and together for a ride or two still this season, before starting doing modifications, some final bits on the way The RWB RC24 is moved to back of back room to wait for the camshaft repair.....

So it's fall even been like summer weather this week aside Friday that was rainy. Even sunt as warm o the day it was foggy other morning early in the week The Transalp fuel tap started to leak, not much, just getting wet doesn't drop. But still should not be like this, so ordered a new rebuild kit. So been riding the SevenFifty It got a good wash on a lunch break at work Even it works good I like to ride the red RC24 this fall as standard before doing modifications during the winter, some final bits are on the way, so swamped around in the garage/basement this morning So the RWB RC24 is moved into the back to wait for the camshaft repair, Red RC24 to the garage to get together to ridable spec, the Zephyr Cafe is ready to roll into the garage to get electric sorted so I get it running and possible will sell it I think 🤔

Are you able to spy the inside of the tank? This spring I finally worked up the nerve to check my '09 Vtec's, and was very relieved to find it looks pristine inside.

Had a reasonably busy week making a bit of a start. First up was the front brakes which were were semi-seized making rolling around a challenge and which were predictably gunked up, one or two pistons had a small amount of pitting on their exposed ends but the seals were in good order, but what a pain to refit!. The master felt awful but was clean inside, still feels more draggy than I want so I will pull that one down again. One oddity that I haven't resolved is the brake light switch which works fine but the lever doesn't actually touch it. Wondering if I have an aftermarket lever here? The levers were horribly white and furry but a soak in alloy cleaner got rid of most of that followed with assertive wire brushing, and some penetrating oil and (im)patience got the span adjusters working. I will need to repaint the calliper bolts and maybe replace the pads pins as these also suffered corrosion. The discs cleaned up with some elbow grease and red scotchbrite pads but the disc bolts should get replaced to lose the rust. The rear brake will need similar attention but is not causing major drag. I ordered a full left middle fairing from a breaker in South Australia and that showed up today. I also found a radiator locally which arrived yesterday. I also found a clutch cover locally which will a little scarred is 100% better than what I have. I have the inner middle fairing coming from the US, and some radiator hoses from Florida. I bought a genuine HISS key from the local stealer and will get that coded and cut at some point. I have worked some graphite powder into the locks and they are feeling much better. I am wavering on buying a centrestand; I have a set of race stands but no way to use the rear one due to the SSSA and shaft drive. Have found a few unpleasant surprises with the hinge bracket on the tank rear really rusty; structurally OK but will need TLC to preserve what is left. The frame has some weird powdery white corrosion which is visual only but a bit ugly. Autosol seems to do a reasonable job without messing up the black finish. The reflector on the left lower fork leg took some impact and this has marred the lower casting and cracked the fender a little which will need some Plastifix or similar. One of the mirrors refuses to lock down when in the normal position, and I'm suspicious this might be an aftermarket part as well. Today has seen a major scrubbing session which has left me feeling drained, but at least the worst of the gunk is behind me and I can see what I have to work with. Electrically all seems fine, and the bike started right up with a new battery fitted. The next major project will be the forks which are a bit weepy as they are wont to do after a long idle period; there is some surface corrosion on the tubes but nothing too serious so I am hopeful a decent clean and polish will sort this out.

Selling this OEM 5th gen stator. 22739 miles on it. Was planning on keeping it, but at my present rate I am putting miles on the bike, I will never use up the rewound stator I am currently running. I went to the rewind so I could have the Furukawa connectors go straight to the R/R without an intermediate connection (solder or butt connector) go to the stator. Its a good stator, probably has lots of miles left in it. Resistance 3 legs - I marked each leg - red/green/black red/black red/green black/green $100 shipped US 49 state ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OEM upgrade stator 4558 miles on it. If I was going to use it, I would modify it to go to a direct connect to battery as current R/R art is.... $40 shipped US 49 state... probably has some good miles left in it. ------------------------------------------ And I have bucoo OEM rotor bolts, new, used, and slightly used. I dont need all of them. We can work something out if you want any.

When I bought my first '98 someone had misaligned the front axle/wheel. There is a specific procedure for aligning the forks/axle on reassembly that is described in the service manual. It's not difficult, but if not done properly you'll have problems like this.

My bike has sat for 5-6 years and I’m trying to get it road ready again. The rear brake didn’t work at all after it sat. I decided to replace all brakes lines with stainless steel lines from galfer. I rebuilt all the master cylinders including the secondary one on the left caliper. I followed the bleeding procedure but now the rear pedal is soft. To get any braking from the rear you basically have to stand on the pedal. If I pump the pedal it will get firm but as soon as I release the pedal it gets soft. I do hear a squeaking/squeezing noise from the left caliper. Does anyone know what the issue would be? I’ve bleed the system so many times and I don’t see any air coming out of the system.

Yes the green wires are ground/earth. Looks like you've got some corrosion there. Also investigate any modifications to the stock wiring. People do weird shit.

Selling HiFlow air filter - closest to OEM --- $35 shipped - 49 state US Pipercross $50 shipped US 49 state - I didnt like how it was a struggle to get it to fit in lower airbox, probably could stand some dremel work in front radiuses. Top Bottom Suggest reading this air filter thread