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The stakes are high so better check.....

It's a 25mm long, M6 flange bolt. Bog-standard Honda. Just pulled the one on my bike to compare: Happy to send one to you--if you can wait for it to arrive from NL... PM me your mailing address. I do tend to replace OEM fasteners with stainless, but I also used to buy the "leftovers" from UK breakers, after they'd broken various Hondas for parts. Ciao, JZH

Many thanks for the reply Thumbs. I will definitely give Electrex a shout, they look like they should be able to sort it.

I'd just put a separate feed to the pump and save the problem until the winter Electrex are your best bet for advice

I bought a nice looking, one owner VFR800FIY last August. On original tyres having done a genuine 2,100 miles from new! The MOT had only expired the previous month, which I was n't too bothered about and I was so keen to have it I picked up in a van. It started, but ran (badly), poor tick over and then racing over 6K on pick up. I was n't too bothered about the poor running as I thought it was most likely old fuel, due to the lack of use. I had a VFR from new, which I owned for 15 years, so I knew the bike and was confident I would soon have it running sweetly. I was convinced it was a fueling issue and changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump flow rate, lined the tank with POR15 as it was slightly speckled with rust spot (really not too bad). New iridium plugs, oil, oil and air filters, even tyres as it was still on the original Bridgestones. Bike was no different - unrideable. So the only fuel-related issue to look at was the injectors - perhaps they had become gummed-up. Took them out, sent them off for refurb', they were as clean as a whistle (3%) difference between before and after. Put the bike back together with little hope that I'd found the issue and fuel pump would not prime, no click from the fuel pump relay either. Bought a new fuel pump relay - no change. I've since found the relays are common and I could have swapped the high beam relay. Since the two nearest Honda dealers would not entertain looking at it as it's over 10 years old, I asked another experienced bike mechanic to investigate. He spent some time on it and concluded that there was no Earth coming from the ECU to the fuel pump relay. So he thought the ECU was 'toast'. Found a second-hand ECU on Ebay, got it reprogrammed to match the keys to deactivate the HISS immobiliser and nothing! Looking at the forum this appears to be a common topic of discussion. As a consequence, I've ticked a few boxes already: The kill switch on the bars is good; the HISS light goes out as it should; the GND (the 14 pin Earth junction) taped into the loom looks perfect (in fact all the wiring looks like new) and Engine kill switch clicks when the ignition is switched on. I checked the fuel pump by bridging the green and black/white wire at the fuel pump relay and and it whirrs nicely. The fault codes appear to be more historic than relevant (1-faulty MAP sensor; 9-faulty intake air temp sensor; 15-faulty No4 injector). Any ideas would be greatfully recieved! Does anyone know of any good mobile bike mechanics which may help. I'm located in Sherborne, Dorset, UK. Thanks for persevering in reading this long message.

Ordered a new Corbin seat for my 2010 VFR, installed some tank grips, and new foot pegs.

Hey man, thanks for the info. I've heard the 2012-forward seats are better, but I have nothing to compare it to. My new Corbin seat arrived today, and I can't wait to try it out.

Honda says the 46mm I stopped by my local dealer to see if they could check the tightness of my VFR's axle bolt. The service manual says the 46mm bolt should be torqued to 146 lb-ft. The shops 45mm socket fit perfectly - go figure. Turns out it my bolt was torqued to at least 146 according their torque wrench. No idea why it isn’t staked in the right spot, but at least it ain’t coming loose anytime soon. I will stake the nut tomorrow just for peace of mind.

Kurvey Girl carries the Tygon tubing. kurveygirl.com

The bolt is 6mm flange, length is something like 20mm but easy for you to work that out. If the thread in the fitting is buggered, then you can drill the thread out and stick a nut on the inside. This is just a mounting bolt that clamps the hose to the delay valve for support.

Well done for persistence and getting it fixed.

Oops. I didn't realise it was bent. I had a look in my stash, but could not find the bolt. I am pretty sure it is Honda partnumber 958010602507. https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr800fi-1998-w-european-direct-sales_model5744/partslist/F__0400.html

Looking for new hose replacement for the brake reservoir to the mc, got a vendor for that? Thanks md

Welcome Ken. Nice looking bike, yes it is a 4th Gen. 62,000Km is 38,500 miles. That's pretty low mileage for these bikes. At some point do a valve check, its fairly easy on these bikes. Not that I'm saying they have problems with their valves, more to just reassure yourself and have a datum point. My 4th Gen has 183,000 km/114,000 miles and it just now had 1 valve go out of spec. They can be pretty much bulletproof with standard maintenance.

Welcome to the forum from northern Maine. Great looking bike for its mileage. The past owner did you well! Great group of guys here, patient, helpful and above all knowledgeable. As Lorne pointed out the service manuals for all the different Gens is in the download section. My 4th Gen. has 114,000+ miles on it. Great all rounder. Loaded up in Virginia a couple of years ago.

That bolt is bent. Not sure I could get the curve out of it. After looking at the parts schematic doesn't look like I can order that bolt. I will have to get it out and measure it to see what size bolt it is..... unless someone already knows.😁

Welcome! Cool 4th gen The other bike is a Gold Wing?

Wanted to say hello and mention I'm happy to be part of the group. 1995 VFR 750 62000Km 4th Gen I guess? Cheers!

Huston we have a problem... after a ride I have a small oil pie under the bike next morning, it looks to be the oil plug But funny this is as I clean up and put a papper towel under the bike, one tiny drop in 24h, so only really leaking as engine cases are warm it seems. Have to drain the oil and look into it....

There are also a few Dutch bike breakers I sometimes get parts from. They sometimes have used aftermarket parts, too. https://www.motorparts-online.com/ https://www.baboonautomotive.nl/en https://www.roukama.com/ https://www.motoparts.eu/en/ Good luck! Ciao, JZH

The 72kW of the early HECS3-equipped (catalyst) models isn't too bad. "Full power" was only 78kW. However, I also understand that riders in Germany at the time also sometimes voluntarily restricted their bikes to qualify for various insurance discounts, Those bikes would have had various non-OEM parts installed by a certified installer, such as throttle restrictors and maybe air intake restrictors. And they were seriously restricted, like 35kW... We used to have similar restrictions done on "learner" bikes in the UK. The photos Worfje shared above look to me like they might be non-OEM restrictors. (All OEM Honda parts should also appear in the parts microfiche for the early German RC46--though I haven't checked for these specific parts.) More info in this thread: Ciao, JZH

I got the painted part's for the Transalp yesterday evening, so next is to put stickers on tank as upper side fairings, and those part's will have one more layers of clear coat. Had time to do one side this morning Edit Had the Transalp stickers I ordered in the mailbox as I came home today, so I just had to put it on Nice I think

My 09 has two 55W H7 high beams and two 60/55W H4 low beams (where the high beam filament is never used). The wiring ensures that the low beams are on at all times and the high beams are in addition, when selected. So all up there should be 220W drawn from lights on high. The generator is stated as having an output of 500W at 5000rpm. I asked AI about this, and to make some allowance for losses (resisistance, AC-->DC conversion etc) and factor in normal loads: "Likely usable DC power at 5000 rpm ≈ 330–360 watts of actual usable 12–14 V DC A good single point estimate is: ≈ 350 W available at the battery at 5000 rpm 4. Why this matches real‑world experience This aligns with what VFR800 owners actually observe: Bike can support: ECU & ignition (~80–100 W) Fuel pump & injectors (~40 W) Lighting (~110–140 W stock halogen) Leaves ~50–100 W margin for accessories at cruising RPM Once you add: Heated grips (~35 W) Heated jacket (~75–90 W) AUX lighting …the system quickly runs out of headroom unless lights are converted to LED." LEDs will consume something like 1/3 of the power of halogens. My take on all of this is that the VFR charging system is OK with occasional use of halogen high beams but continued use might be enough to drain the battery a bit.