All Activity

I’ve checked fuses with my power pro. Good amperage and continuity. I was suspecting that at the very beginning

I have not tried that yet. I am gonna have to give that a try

I saw an instance of this - turned out to be the kill switch. Shot a bit of contact cleaner in around the edges, cycled it a few times and back to normal. Not sure if your diagnosis has ruled that out or not.

Maybe in the future, so far i did snorkel and flapper valve delete and ye its a lot smoother ride now.

Looking great. Are you going to delete the PAIR valves? I think it makes the bike noticeably smoother, especially at lower revs.

https://a.co/d/0sl3IQX

(not counting VFRworld) I'm curious to find out who reads what around here, and hey, I might find a great site that I've missed. For me, my motorcycle interests are motogp racing, the m/c industry, new models, etc. I check these regularly: Motomatters The best motogp site IMHO. Run and authored by a Brit, David Emmett. Yeah, it cost $50 USD a year but well worth it. Revzilla Common Tread True, it supports a motorcycle accessories company (Revzilla/Cycle Gear), but the content is good, and it has Ari and Zach, who produce great motorcycle video content. motorcycle.com Dennis Chung is a real detective when it comes to figuring out new model introductions and motorcycle company financial reports. I still look at the Cycle World web site, but it is kinda generic, nothing like the mag used to be. V4 Dreams is always fun and he's one of us. And places like BAT, Iconic Motorbike Auctions, and Rolling Physics Problem are fun every now and then. Best wishes for a great 2026 riding season everyone, and don't forget to help Miguel out with a contribution to the VFRD operating budget. Cheers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146927292945 Check this out as an example. Nobody makes em for VFR's, but I'm trying to rectify that asap.

Grasping @ straws, may as well start replacing associated fuse(s), rarely they’ll test fine but still not conduct full voltage

Brand new reg rec, too. I’ve checked all of my grounds as well. No error codes and no FI light

My small paint brush is actually an electric shaver cleaning brush. I have a few different brushes for cooper & nickel anti-seize, & various grease. The small stiff bristles spread product well.

Dead reg rec? But that wouldn’t stop it firing on a full battery… Id say dead coils but that wouldn’t stop the pump priming… Did you check the earth block on the harness? If you bridge it to the frame it’ll tell you. Mate of mine diagnoses electrical woes by wiggling parts of the harness until something happens/stops happening. It’s stupid but surprisingly effective. No error codes, I suspect?

Yep, production year 2009 😄 I will soon have the rims powder coated and at the same time I will replace the tires with Metzeler SPORTEC M9 RR. Yep, coolant change with multiple flushes, Battery and fuel pump were repleaced by previous owner just to start the bike, fuel tank looks spotless inside. Im going to buy carbtune then ill do Sv's. Ok lets continue story, there is one thing i absolutely hate about this bike, gauges. Font on this gauges looks like late 90's microsoft word school project. Dirty i need to disassembly it completly, this way it will be a lot easier to clean it. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and soft brush. Not bad for 27 years old bike, only one trace were damage. I dont have better option so its stay as it is. Works fine so i cannot complain. All clean Old vs new Done I always wanted red backlight and this one fits 1:1 no issues 😄 And we have a problem, backlight is so uneven oem have nice black dots to help spread light evenly. So i need to strip front paint from old ones Old ones went under new It worked 😄 Now its nice and even. Ok moving to cooling system. Does not look bad, fluid came out nice and clean. While in the store, I bought this cheap radiator flush out of curiosity. I thought I would do it purely as a preventive measure because old coolant looks clean so nothing is wrong. I see some foam. I warmed up the engine to operating temperature and left it like that for 3 days because I didn't have time to continue working. 3 days later i see some flakes in reservoir. Hoooly, i didnt expect coolant system to be that dirty I did 5 more flushes with destiled water and this is last one, im tired of it. I will do final one after some time riding this bike. Still a lot of crap inside reservoir i did trick with acid and it worked perfectly. Now its clean as can be. Pair valves Front and Rear were absolutely clogged with carbon deposits I also looked inside the airbox yeee to be expected, OEM Honda air filter, sadly i I couldn't find the production date, but it might be from 1998. Little bit oily Got Hilflo one to keep cost of this "project" low Airbox out soaking Much better now all clean To the spark plugs Yee i need to take radiators out and give them good cleaning. Looks almost new rear ones Looks completly different and oily 😞 Something is wrong This front from clutch lever side looks diferent from others. And also exhaust pipe is wet. Clearly there is a diference between this one and rest For now i have put iridium ones, i need to keep an eye on this issue I could not resist and bought new Barracuda grips and bar ends. I am concerned that one of the spark plugs (front one from clutch lever side) looks very clean compared to the rest. The exhaust manifold on this cylinder is also wet. It's just hard for me to tell if it's oil or coolant im not quite sure yet (maybe leaking fuel injector?), I have to remove the exhaust manifold from this cylinder and take closer look, any ideas and tips what can cause this issue?

I just changed my vpn to Poland and taaa daaa.... Beautiful looking bike. 🍻 Similar to mine, story on here. Have you checked the tyres? They should display a date of manufacture on them. Coolant change? Battery? Air filter and fuel tank worth checking too. And then balance the SVs. 👍 Enjoy. 🍻

I don’t have HISS. Mine is a U.S. bike battery is in good state as well. I’ve also checked all relays (tested good), and the ignition is brand new. Bike is also in neutral haha

Freezing out there... Make you wonder why on eath anyone would go out skating in such temperatures eh?

Upload directly from your phone or camera to the site

Hi, anyone selling a quickshifter or know where I could get one? I'm after a genuine Honda OEM Ive searched for ages and failed so far Many thanks

Thanks MBrane, appreciate the tips. I DID become a human rag! Unfortunately steel bolts don’t survive in the UK. Galvanised ones only last about 5 years and my bike is nearly 30. The constant damp and salt deteriorates everything, even garaged machines. There’s a brown puddle under mine as we speak. Byproduct of living on an island. You guys in the US are lucky. For example, check out a used VFR brake caliper on eBay US, and compare it to one on eBay UK. You’ll be shocked! You’re right about galvanic corrosion and thread galling. These are real things, so I use copper antiseize on virtually everything. The copper “sacrifices” itself in the reaction, leaving the bolts and the aluminium part unaffected. This is why when you pull out an old antiseized bolt, the copper will have turned black. Thanks Gaz. Curious why you say ACF50 is better than copper slip? Don’t the copper particles help with torquing down bolts? Surely the oil would get squished out under high pressure, whereas the copper powder stays put and helps the threads slide against each other better? Rolls Royce and Bombardier use antiseize on their fasteners. It’s really expensive silvery stuff, but concept is the same as copper. The metal particles stop threads from galling and also form a barrier to corrosion. Finally, the copper takes the corrosive hit if anything gets through, leaving the steel and aluminium unharmed. That’s my understanding anyway. Happy to be corrected. I use ACF50 all over the place, but antiseize for fasteners. Will give ACF50 a try on fasteners now… Just for the record, I’ve never had a failed fastener or struggled to remove a fastener that’s been antiseized. Ever. Not even brake parts or exhaust studs. I even use it on brake disc bolts (where most people use Loctite), and never had a bolt back out, gall or corrode. I am not advising anyone follows my lead here, just sharing my experience.

Gaz, I’ve never heard of such a thing but interested as I sometimes get missed shifts on track.

Ignition switch and HISS? Are you getting power downstream from this? There’s a YouTube on how to bypass it. If the pump isn’t priming I’d be looking at ignition and relays. Is your battery in a good state? Weak batteries create gremlins that are hard to diagnose. And make sure you’re in neutral (happened to me!).

Have a link?

You need at least a 1200lb spring for your weight on a VFR800