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Thanks.

Welcome aboard Qtip. Your plan with the turn signal is sound; power passes through the flasher unit to the switch which then sends it out to the appropriate side blinkers. A dirty switch contact is most likely the problem if one side works but not the other. As for the fuel pump I can't say that I have ever noticed mine at all once the engine is started but it will be running continually at that point. I do know that pump noise can be more noticeable when the fuel level is really low. Things that I would pay attention to are: Make sure the secondary master cylinder is moving freely, should be able to puch it a couple of mm forwards and should put the back brake on for you. If these seize up you can end up with an overheated back brake or locked wheel. The back wheel should spin freely when it is released. There is a specific brake bleeding sequence for the linked brakes that you should follow Common earth block on the wiring harness inside the top fairing, these can corrode and cause weird earth faults, so may be worthwhile finding and cleaning that. I'd also check the alternator plug (3 yellow wires) as these also corrode and can melt. Some of these seem to be more common in bikes ridden through winter and may not be so applicable to sunny Melbourne...

Hi all, Just picked up a 2002 Honda VFR800 and I’m planning out the initial servicing so I can start from a clean baseline and know the bike is safe and reliable. It’s running and riding fine and it was used as a daily (mostly longer commute rides). The issue is I don’t have the longer logged service history I’d like, so I’m doing a full “fresh start” service plan. Planned / underway: Fluids (oil/filter, coolant, brake/clutch) Spark plugs Air filter Chain and sprockets While the fairings + tank are off: checking/refreshing potential gremlins and doing easy preventative stuff (vac lines, inspecting coolant & brake hoses, general inspection, etc.). Any recommendations?? While I’m waiting for consumables to arrive and doing a quick look, I found a couple things and wanted some opinions from the group: Right turn indicator switch doesn’t activate the lights. Left works perfectly, right does nothing. My plan is to clean the switch assembly and check fuses / connectors, but before I dig in too far, are there any common VFR800 6th gen culprits I should look for (wiring points, relay, typical corrosion spots, etc.)? Fuel pump has a constant hum at idle on startup. The fuel pump primes fine before starting, but once it’s running there’s a noticeable constant hum at idle. It sounds louder than other bikes I’ve owned (I haven’t owned anything over 750cc before this one), so I’m not sure if this is totally normal for these but from the other bikes I've experienced this and it was the pump working harder because of a restricted filter. I'd love to hear any thoughts or experiences, and if there are any quick checks you’d recommend while I’ve got the tank/fairings off, I’m all ears. Thanks for letting me into the community and for all the info I've been able to find and use so far.

good work lubing the throttle shafts, usually neglected but essential to ;preventy seizure later if carbs were soaked in water. actual motor oil is a better lube there than wd-40. i always confirm holes are open with cleaning wires, both jets and side holes in emulsion tubes also air correcters and long choke circuit pickup tubes.

Yeah, well, many of the bikes out there are just looking to be seen, whether that's the bling, the burnout, or the blind corners. But it's similar up here at Alice's and Skyline. North Bay where I am is a little more mellow but still the PCH can be wild in summer. It's been five or six years but the last time I was on Mulholland the pavement wasn't great, and the elite cars were everywhere. I enjoyed the ACH much more.

I was worried about the strenght of the plastic too, to be honest. The machined option might be more reasonable indeed.

The petcocks from bike model to bike model can be very different, even within the same manufacturer. So the screen is going to be just as unique. A product like that wouldn't be one-size-fits-all. If there was anybody making metal replacements I'm pretty sure it would have surfaced in one of the several other threads about this exact topic already. DIY solution is just that: Do It Yourself I would just eliminate it and maybe run a cleanable metal mesh type filter ahead of your OEM filter if you are concerned about larger debris in your tank. On some designs you may need to maintain the bad strainer to properly locate the small o-ring. I would cut away the failing plastic mesh if it needs to stay.

My other bike (ZX) now has in-tank filter screen issues as well. Know anyone who sells JUST replacement (hopefully metal) screens where I could just swap them out? Or maybe a DIY solution?

In all but carb #1 you can unhook the butterfly return spring. For #1 I put a bag clip in to hold the butterfly open. I got some WD40 silicon lubricant to capillary into the spindle when I reassemble them.

A word about the ultrasonic cleaner I have. I did a lot of research and realised, in what must be the story of many manufactured things, the very top end survives while anything mid range has been swept away by the Chinese, and the only alternative is the cheap, well I would say rubbish. I decided to get a proper one, such a device being so useful in all sorts of applications. I consider it white goods. I got a Bandelin Sonorex RK255BH. It's amazing. I can get two carbs in at a time. I'm using Tickopur R33 at 45degC and 7.5% concentration. May be 5% would have done. Loading up the basket with some brass in the tea strainer. 5 minutes, then turn over and another 5 minutes Trying not to get confused between the air fryer, cleaner, burger and carbs Blow out with an air can and leaving them to dry

A few more pictures. From here on the carbs I'm working on are the ones from my bike. The story of these is with the bike laid up for too long (I know 🙄) she wouldn't idle. I got the carbs off and "just wanted them fixed" so I sent them away for cleaning. Also 🙄. I had made life even harder for myself in having two Gen4's in the same state. For reasons of London ULEZ I would get them running and sell them both. Until I couldn't possibly part with the blue one and found out you can get them ULEZ tested ✅. I sold the red one. Anyway the carbs came back and they did work. Except there was a tendency for them to flood. And on receipt the choke plungers were sticky. I fixed the flooding and the chokes and ran the bike OK. The cleaning job wasn't expensive but in the end poor. I figured I should just take the trouble to learn how to fix them and know they are all good. The spare set from eBay was an idea to get some practice and may be sell a reconditioned set to recover some of the cost of my expensive ultrasonic cleaner. I'll come back to the eBay ones at the end. The second pic is a bit saturated, but there is light green stuff on the float bowl. I use a 7mm spanner to remove the needle jet from the body then hold it in the spanner and a good fit flat screwdriver to get the main jet off.

It's a slotted screw

I (barely) watch the GPs these days. Too much like FOX/F1/CNN. Too much drama and foolishness. The website just keeps getting worse. WSBK for me. They haven't been so affected (yet).

Well yes, I still got a 2001 ZR7S Kawasaki that needs some work, but actually liked it better than the SevenFifty, the ZR7S has the top fairing, lower center of gravity as more comfortable seating position. Don't know if the NO will pass on the SevenFifty soon, he had plans to classic inspect it..... A win sure is that I got the SevenFifty in a straight trade for a FJ1200 that I paid 700€ for, now I did put about same money in the FJ, a bit less perhaps as about 250€ into the SevenFifty but as I got 2100€ for it I actually got a small profit! Next is to get the Zephyr Scrambler finished as sold after a few test rides in the spring. Then a other decision is if I want to use some of the SevenFifty money to get a Dakar rally style fairing for the Transalp or just paint it and maybe sell it to,then I would have money to buy a Africa Twin 750/650 again.... On other hand a lift table to make it more easy to work on my motorcycle's would not be bad... Choice's choice's

I've spent enough time up Yerba Buena, Latigo Canyon etc. I'm not expecting anything groundbreaking from the Snake. Would be nice to check out though just to say I did. One of my last rides at the Dragon 2 - 3 years ago, I slowly passed an unconscious motorcyclist sprawled out on the hood of a Miata. Miata had blown the corner across the double yellow. Unlucky guy on the cruiser was in its path. Traffic was at a crawl past the scene and first responders were heading up as I made my way down to Foothills Parkway. 😕

I carried on worming my way towards the front valve cover last night, the throttle bodies came out easily, all the clamp screws are accessible from the left side but you will need that looong screwdriver to reach the front right intake, and there is a clip holding the coolant air bleed hose to the underside. At that point I decided to carry on and pull the radiator off, again no big deal, two large and one small hose to remove, three bolts and handful of electrical connections. And a bucket of coolant. I had quite the collection of road stones caught between the camcover and radiator. I gave the bottom of the V a blow out with compressed air which covered me and the other contents of the Mancave with a layer of filth. I will be giving the frame rails a bit of a scrub down to remve the salt corrosion that is visible. There's a complicated plastic heat shield that sits atop the camcover and wraps under the wiring loom and over the spark plug coil caps; in hindsight getting the plug wires and then the coils up/out might make sneaking this out easier, and there were a couple of cable clips that needed to be released as well. After all of that I reached the camcover and had my first brain fart; the rear head, which is slim on the 1200, has only three hold down bolts and I kind of assumed the front would be the same and was wondering why the heck it would not budge until I found the fourth, centrally located bolt...In my defence, it was actually hard to see, hidden by the breather chamber from the back and the PAIR valve on the front. Access for the exhaust tappets looks much easier with the radiator removed, and I will move on to check and adjust these this evening (hopefully).

86 VFR700f, runs & rides great, just went through the carbs, rebuilt the brake calipers, new neutral switch, new fuel filter. High miles (91k), good shape given age and miles. Sat in the garage for a while, I may put new tires on it in the Spring. lots of upgrades, 17" wheels front and rear (CBR600F2), radial master cylinder (front), EBC Rotors, Fox Twin clicker rear shock. Lots of spares, original wheels, Magtek 16" front wheel, 2 good Corbin seats, brand new full exhaust system still in the Box (they made them about 10-15 years ago). I have owned the bike since 1999, too many bikes now, I have to thin the herd. Asking price on CL is $3,200, but will make a VFRD member a better deal.

Well, it finally happened. Motogp will no longer race at Phillip Island after this year. I was willing to give Liberty Media, the new owners of motogp (and current owners of F1) the benefit of the doubt. A big investment in motorcycle racing at the highest level had to be a good thing. So much for that. Phillip Island, along with Mugello and maybe one or two others, is one of the greatest motorcycle race tracks in the world. Next year it will be replaced with a street circuit 😬 in Adelaide.

So you still have a UJM that's more modern, and the NO has a classic UJM that he will enjoy, and then pass on. Looks like a win-win to me. *Says the dude with way too much music/audio gear*

Maybe the fasteners were replaced before or something like that. They flash-rust very quickly but there are others on other parts of the fairing which do not. I might just need to buy four new ones....looking at nutjobparts.com who post Honda OEM stuff to Ireland, the bits are about €2 each. Not too bad I suppose, could be worse.

I believe you are on the correct path.

I do pretty much the same thing with an Eastern Beaver fuse block, and a relay. Direct to the battery for the main current triggered by the ignition circuit. My heated gear/charging outlet is wired direct with a fuse.

One of the rules for welding SS is don't use any abrasives that have touched carbon steel. Same for aluminum. The residue contaminates the weld material.

Doh! Thank you! NOT paying attention or reading today. Doesn't explain why his hardware is flash rusting. Maybe contamination from the rework tooling?

🤩