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Hello dear bikers, VFR enthusiasts and all who feel similar 🙂 I registered a long time ago, but I never actually introduce myself, so better ever then never. I'm Denis and I'm from Croatia, 38y/o, and driving two-wheelers from very distant youth. There were small 50cc manuals, tuned 50cc 2T scooters, 125 2T sport bikes (Cagiva Mito inclusively), FZ6, Z750, racing 180 2t scooters and etc... I fell in love in one RC36 also when I was a kid, but at that time I didn't even know which brand it was and why it has so beautiful sound. Actually I thought it was V2 but high revving model (apparently I didn't know much about mechanics and engines back in the day) 🤣 After I tried friend's 1998 RC46 for the first time in 2021 (he actually stole my idea after selling his SV1000), I said that's it, and same year I bought my first VFR, silver RC46 from 2001. She was 20 years old, but she didn't give any sign of fatigue. 106 HP, slightly schratched in the front, previously repainted, but mechanically perfect. 258km/h top speed, niiiiice 😙 But I don't like silver. 😴 For me it's the color of the primer, ready to put some COLOR, red, blue, yellow, orange, even black!!! So I did what had to be done. Perfect! I dreamed about red one. Putted iridium spark plugs, new oil, new tires, new filters... (one rectifier later, of course) and that's it. And it was nice one and a half year, one of the best tours in my life, a lot of commuting, freerides, turned 26 thousand kilometers in total. And then my other friend happened.. asked me for a spin, and unfortunatelly the bike was almost totalled, he was luckily OK, only scratches, bruises, but broken pride. 😢 Season skipped unintentionally. And then "banana" came (as my friend calling her) 😆 1999, imported from Germany, well preserved, also mechanically very good, 114 thousand kilometers, yeees manual choke, not that nice gauge background as facelift version, not that nice mirrors... but BOS high-mount exhaust, sport air filter and remapped ECU. A lot of original accessories (Honda tools, passenger grips and original passenger seat cover)... and 270 km/h 😎🫢🤪😮 Plus stronger pull from lower rpms. Everything you need from a bike. And after one year and 8 months, she's still here, but 30 thousand kilometers older (plus one battery which died). Uh, what a bike. She still puts a smile on my face. And almost 150 tkm... Well done Honda 😉

I am a little surprised no-one barely hears it, and i suspect audio compression on the forum somehow? https://youtube.com/shorts/_e50QwNIBzU tried upload to youtube. i removed the second video to avoid confusion. @4-5 seconds into the clip, i hold the RPM at 3100 rpm, it's is super noticeable even in the video, on my phone. i can compare the squeal to a belt squeal on a car. Generally focus on the first part between 00:01 and 00:08. i have earplugs, but i don't want them, i want to hear the bike, i rarely use them, only for longer trips. my father in law suggests that i turn up music whenever i hear something, car or bike... but i hate that mindset. The sound plants and travels through the body and rings inside your head, very unpleasant. My brother and my freind both hear it as well, clearly. I have ridden the bike 10.000km in total, and the noise is new. The idea about the clutch pin is a super great suggestion, and i will look into it, it's super easy to get to! Even though the clutch lever has NO effect, it might rub against it and cause it somehow, worth trying, rather than taking the carbs off again.

Patience has payed off. I found original bars from 1999 for 90€ both. That's exactly how VFR should feel. 🤩

Thanks for your reply! Previously, no matter the outside temperature or riding conditions, I never saw more than 96°C (204°F) on the highway — even during the summer. Today was a busy diagnostic day for the bike: We disconnected the O₂ sensors to make sure the ECU wasn’t running a lean mixture in closed loop. But unfortunately, it made no difference — the symptoms remained exactly the same. Both radiators were removed and inspected. They looked clean inside and out, no corrosion or blockage. The water pump was also inspected — impeller and housing were in like-new condition, no wear or damage. Still scratching my head on this one. Tomorrow I’m taking the radiators to a specialist to do a chemical flush and pressure test, just to be 100% sure they’re working at peak efficiency.

Good call. Maybe return the wiring (PC and 02 stuff) back to stock to help with your baseline and then crack on from there. Maybe the fuel stabliser hasn't quite done the trick and the injectors are gunked up. Would be worth trying an injector cleaner at a high concentration and see what happens.

Hi fabio222, anything is possible of course, but last year when I tried to start it, it was with the new battery and full charge and the engine would turn over vigorously, so it seems unlikely it's battery related. I have the same battery now as from last year, and its been kept fully charged on a high quality trickle charger. And remember, the motor would start last year if I put a little bit of gasoline on the intake, so again it doesn't sound like it's battery related. I think I'll have time to put the battery in today, so that will give me a baseline to troubleshoot. I have an unsubstantiated feeling it's related to the Power Commander, but I have no evidence to support that, however it does appear to be related to fuel delivery, at least from my experience last year. Stay tuned (bad pun)!

Under the same conditions, how did it work before?

Good words, @DrErgal! A man of culture, I see with the Nissin Advantage Radial MC! I discovered their existence after purchasing my brembo. I have the same one you do on my Transalp, and I quite enjoy it. Agreed on the 90 degree adapter. I used one on the clutch side, and have a spare. Using one (with the set of terminations I have on my two spare Hel lines), I could not get myself satisfied with the angulation of the dangle-ulation - the line's stress was beyond what I was comfortable with, so what you see is what I got. Copy that on the double at the master! It does give a bit of symmetry to it!

Probably better off making a new thread. This one is verry old and the title won't be of much help to people in finding your query.

I wonder might it just be the battery. Bad batteries can do very strange things at times.

In such cases you may use and adapter like the following: Using it you recreate a connection similar to the original axial master, and the routing path turns fine 👍 Furthermore, just to reply to your question, I DO: always been using double banjo at the master, for ALL my bikes, including track-only ones. No issues. Personally, I prefer the layout with double banjo at the master and single banjo at the calipers, with a line for any caliper starting directly from the master; hydraulically speaking, the two layouts work exactly the same but the two lines from the master, serving one caliper each, are more aesthetically symmetrical to me, , pampering my autism... 😁 This final picture summarizes buth topics: adapter and double bajo on master (the bike was my racetrack CBR/XX)

try earplugs 😃

Had a 91 when I was in England, and have a 90 now. Listened closely 4-5 times, but did not pick up anything unusual it how your bike sounded. I assume you can hear the sound that bothers you in your videos? If so, I cannot.

I don't think there's a majority of one way that's been done, depends on waht the owner wants/needs.

I would definitely check with BusyLittleShop on here and see what he says. He/She makes a fantastic product!

While I don't think this is the issue, one of my 500 Interceptors can spin the clutch push rod in certain conditions. The tip that is in the Clutch Slave goes to metal on metal and squeals. But you can make it go away by slightly pulling in the clutch to where the bearing on the clutch pressure plate takes over. Every now and then I need to put some moly paste in there. Good luck.

I've run through the videos a number of times and I don't hear what was described either. I'm normally hypersensitive to higher frequencies. I had taken the earplugs out as well....

No experience with those but they sure do look familiar!

I can't hear it either.

That's correct @mello dude. Are most folks doing a double banjo up at the master? I'm not sure that geometry would work for me... Tolerances are tight up by the RCS19...

Gots to ask... Hose plumbing.. you doing the over the fender right to left and then right side up to the master? The double banjo got me.

The 24 Second video, 3-5 Second in, that's where it's worst, it's not the cam gears, it's getting so loud i can't drive the bike, and My buddies say they can hear it down the road, Not normal.

It's the bane of all automotive and motorcycle projects! 😧 I did get mine to fit and they are oh so pretty! I only shaved off from the Fork side! The witness marks are visible, but that will surely only ever bother me lol Got the other side done, and the brake lines all plumbed up too! Thanks for all yalls help!!! --- I will make a write up here for my fork teardown, but that story is a long one and will take some effort to post. I'll happen in due time though!

Purchased used in 2019, adult-ridden and maintained. Currently 33064 miles. Runs and rides as it should, no issues noted. Maintenance history (since in my possession) available in Excel. Please PM with any questions. We could schedule a live video of the bike if you like. Mods: Hikari Black high-low LED headlight bulbs Puig Double Bubble Volt meter (shows proper voltages) Fiam Highway Blaster Horn Heli-bars Two-position heated grips (on a switched circuit) authentic carbon fiber triple tree covers Ram ball mount in steering stem Stock tool set and manual Sargent Seat, as well as stock seat, both in excellent condition. Fresh battery. VFRness, o2 delete, PAIR/Flapper disable (done by PO) Power Commander III with Cozye's map Includes OEM seat cowl, passenger handles and covers SW-Motech top box mount, Givi monokey plate installed Givi saddle bag mounts with Givi V35 bags (painted to match. Not a perfect match, but as close as I could get Generic top box, wired for working brake lights (actually not a bad box!) BLS peg lowering blocks (made a huge difference touring!) Two Brothers slip on pipes (I believe cat is gutted, also have spare stock exhaust) Flashing LED rear brake lights Avon Spirit ST f/r, plenty of tread left The Bad: PO installed the partially repaired damage to upper right cowl, small scratch at lower right cowl, and scratched right crank case cover 😅

Hi fron Greece. I'm the proud owner of a 2004 VFR800 VTEC, bought brand new. Over the years I've ridden it extensively across Europe, including some track days — it's been an incredible bike. I've been following the forum for a long time but wasn’t actively posting, as I felt I didn’t have much to contribute. That said, I’ve always appreciated the knowledge here. The bike has always been meticulously maintained, but I’ve recently encountered a problem that I could really use your help with. When cruising on the highway at a steady throttle (around 130–140 km/h / ~80–90 mph), the coolant temperature gradually rises to 212°F (100°C) and above. If I push the bike hard (e.g. 200 km/h+), the temperature climbs even further to 221°F (105°C) — the fan kicks in and stays on continuously. But here's the strange part: If I ride at the same speed but constantly vary the throttle (on/off every few seconds), the temperature drops back down to around 195°F (90–91°C). In the city, during stop-and-go or idling, the cooling system works normally — the fan comes on at 221°F (106°C) and shuts off at 208°F (98°C). What I’ve Already Done: Coolant flushed and replaced with high-quality fluid Thermostat replaced (new OEM) two years ago before the problem. Radiator cap replaced System bled properly No visible leaks or airlocks Engine fans working correctly I’m really scratching my head on this one. I’d appreciate any insights, or if someone has experienced something similar. Thanks in advance for your help!