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Happy Thanksgiving!

It drives me nuts doing twin exhausts on these. The extra weight is just bonkers. And what does it do for performance? Meh. No thanks. I apologize for my terminology. ^ A bike came to my shop. Someone had the same intentions, albeit misguided... *PLEASE DO NOT DO IT* 20250712_113725.heic 20250712_113732.heic

JB Weld's been on sale for yrs here in the UK, u can buy it just about anywhere these days, if it works for you, that's great, I can defo see the benefit of having some in stock, even if it's just as a temp repair option, or even a permanent repair, dunno if I'd fancy some as a coolant sealing repair tho. My old man used to be a coal miner for the NCB in the 60's/70/s/80's, his garage shelves were stocked with the original stuff (Belzona E-metal) u couldn't buy it back then, it was crazy expensive to produce, money was no object for the NCB back in the 70's, u can actually buy it now, still crazy expensive.

My bike had the universal green coolant when I drained the system (not sure what the factory used from new?), but I plan to use the blue colored Asian variant when the time comes to refill the system. I had good success with that coolant variant when I replaced coolant on a 1800 Goldwing I used to ride. Distilled water is $1 a gallon in the supermarket, so absolutely no reason to cheap out with tap water.

Gaz is technically correct, and in a perfect work his method is definitely the way to go. One of the million revelations about coming to the US from the UK was this cheap and amazing product called JB Weld that can fix almost anything. 🙂 JB Weld wasn't available in the UK when I lived there 30 years ago, but I quick google search tells me it is available through limited distribution channels, but not in every hardware store like here in the US. I'm cautious by nature, but I will sleep well at night with the JB Weld repair. I will also keep an eye on this area for a good while once the bike is back on the road.

People have used JB Weld for this kind of thing for years. It works great. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.

This is the way. I've done it the other way. It was a PITA. If you're just doing head gaskets you won't need to touch the rear wheel/swingarm

Don't just throw parts at stuff. Repeatedly installing new fuses IS NOT TROUBLESHOOTING. I had the fan fuse pop on a 5th gen. An item had gotten up in the blade spin area wedged in the radiator fins and was occasionally stopping the fan in its tracks, popping the fuse. Sixth gens also have side mount radiators that would invite debris into this area. Inspect the fan spins freely by hand with the bike off. Remove the fan and bench test it with an inline fuse holder and 12V source like a car battery.

Personally I wouldn't rely on any kinda filler on such a vital sealing surface, last thing you need is a severe coolant leak, could potentially end in a crash, coolant n tyres don't mix. I'd have stuffed rag in water ports & thread holes & block sanded it back to a uniform surface, cut a small bit of wood, wrap 400 wet n dry around it, use engineer blue or a sharpie ink marker works ok to ensure its blocked flat, sand a bit, paint it, sand it, paint it etc, you get the idea, keep at it until all the pits are gone, run a tap thru threads too for good measure, blow out swarf & Bob's your Auntie. Refurbed no end of stat housings & engine casings this way, you're only removing a few thou of material. O'rings don't seal well on pitted surfaces, bolt off joint will likely be pitted where O'ring sits, I'd future proof it, fully coat O'ring in Hondabond/Yamabond or similar on assembly, just allow it to go nearly dry before bringing surfaces together, Torque set bolts (M6 into alloy is 10N.m), leave it a good 24hrs before adding coolant or running motor, sealant needs time to cure, it'll probly never need to come apart again in your life time. Ensure you use correct alloy engine specific coolant, either buy pre-mix of self mix raw coolant 50/50 with distilled or deionized water, never use tap water, full of minerals that'll crystallise & gum up water ports & rad.

Always impressive to see pictures of VFR with its engine out. That’s some work. I need to get over my illness so I can ride, maybe this weekend. I enjoy the older Honda’s from the 2000’s, incredibly well built machines.

Anybody know some swappable radiator fan motors to replace stock? Part number is 19030-MCW-D01 for 6th gen. Buying new is ~$300, and that's ridiculous. Diagnosis for future references and documentation: I keep popping my 20A fan switch fuse. I tested fan switch to ground and harness and both are working, so figure its my fan motor that's pulling too many amps and causing the fuse to pop. When I first bought the bike I realized the fan wanted to spin, but was stuck (I could hear the fan motor whining). Couldn't pull the fuse so unfortunately I had to ride it like that. I've gone through about ten 20A fuses and a couple 25A, they are essentially one time usage. Once I plug in a new fuse, the system works properly. Go for a 20 minute ride, come back, and fuse is popped. Pretty sure the fan motor is toast. Bike: 2008 VFR 800 (6th gen)

The RC36-II actually has a pretty decent header system on it compared to the RC36-I chamber. I installed the later system on my 92 and def realized gains. That being said, I would absolutely expect some gains from one of the Tyga full systems over stock if the carbs were properly jetted to take advantage. But if the drop dead good looks of that system combined with the heavenly noises it is going to make is enough to make you happy... fucking go for it. Please let me live vicariously thru you. I don't remember any reviews of anybody here, or over on VFRW, doing this. GODDAMM

Considering getting a Tyga left exhaust for my R36 2 Any owners here done the same and if so how have you got along with it? Am guessing there isn’t a huge difference if any in performance? For me its mainly the noise and the looks that appeal

You can remove the heads in situ. You can't drop the engine on an 800 easily due to it having a pivot less frame, you have to remove the swingarm & cushion, so there is nothing left to support the rear of the bike! Unless you rig up a prop under subframe or suspend it from above. The bare engine on its own is approx 75Kg, so be careful if moving it on your own, best to have some help.

This would be the first blown VFR head gasket I've ever heard of. Curious to see what you find... Ciao, JZH

Much more confident in water integrity after filling the pock marks with JB Weld.

Can anyone confirm the size of the bleed nipples for the VFR1200F please? I am considering getting 'auto' bleed nipples but there seem to be different lengths available and I can't find any size specifications either online or in the Shop Manual. I believe they are M8x1.25mm, but what about length? Cheers.

There's a section here with the workshop manual - that'll have the right torque settings for you! Best of luck with it! Actually here's the link to the downloads section which contains the guides: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/category/2-owners-manuals-and-other/ Go in and find the one you need and it'll have all the info you need.

Removed from my 2020 VFR1200X which has 1300 miles from new so this has not seen much action. Gloss Black and in near new condition. Includes mounting bolts and spacers. Same part number for both VFR1200X and VFR1200F. £106 from Pyramid. £65 + postage, UK only.

I know exactly where that is haha! My old friend that went to Woodway use to live around that area! Thanks for the pictures and info! Really cool rides man! Glad to know someone nearby has these as the RC24’s seem to be really rare nowadays. Maybe on a nice day we can meet at Dicks or something! I’ll make an intro post here soon! The bike just needs a few things to get it road ready and a bit more to get to the restored level!

Hey thanks for looking that up! I ordered from WEMOTO! Maine’s a cool place! It was my second time there and got to explore a bit more and went down to Portland. Definitely want to check more of Bar Harbor and Acadia next time around though!

@Stormnorman Would love some pics of your bike. Start a new thread to introduce you and your VFR.

Hey there!! I'm up by the water towers in Esperance.

They look the part. They also look directly at your elbow. I don't care, if I want to see what's directly behind me I either dip or lift my elbow. But in general use, I can see what car is behind and where my buddies are.

I'm about 45 minutes from Bangor on the coast. Bangor is our second largest city, with about 35,000 people, which gives you an idea of what the rest of Maine looks like.........:) The part no. in your photo, 586610 corresponds to the one listed in AW's site in the UK. I'll link a photo from their website which confirms it fits your bike. Looks like Capt. 80's did his homework.🙂 For the record, looks like WEMOTO in the UK shows the same part available also. Good luck with the bike.