vfr350

Quick little update, bulbs installed. Was kinda a pain as these things weren't clocked level for sure, lots of bending and tweaking of the mount tabs. Once installed I noticed the light is certainly "whiter", its hard to say how much brighter, it seems the LED's and the creases in the reflector make the light a bit odd (projectors prob be best here). Another thing I noticed is that with my suspension set up (front dropped a bit, rear raised a tad) the aim was real low, like the high beams were just a bit further than where I would expect the low's to be. So I have some aim adjustment yet. Even with that i'm not sure the LEDs will have the reach or throw on high that the old osrams did. I can say at stoplights the light was no longer swallowed up by cars that pull up along side, so it doesnt appear to be a step backwards at least on low. Voltage at speed does not appear to be higher, but is up at idle for sure, didn't get a change to see how warm the r/r is, was just a short ride.

The Morimotos list as 25w's and its also interesting as well after seeing this note: Compatibility: Direct Fitment: H4 & H7 housings (little/no mods) I found this site as well with some interesting mounting options for bike spec aux lights, even these little add ons: http://www.max-inc.cn/super-bright-white-3w-cree-led-mirror-mount-fog-drl-lights/ http://www.max-inc.cn/spot-fog-lights/ MaxSwell, in the pic it looks like adhesive velcro was used to mount the little balasts, was there a reason for velcro over say double sided tape? Do they heat up at all? Probably nothing to zip tie it to I'm going to assume, yet to tear things apart to see.

MaxSwell, I'd be willing to bet my r/r is a Ricks as well, have to check. What are the odds MellowDude still has some of those blocks ? Along with the VFRness I actually made my own "grounding kit" ran like 5 different legs of 10awg wire to different parts of the bike trying to insure at least one ground path w/o crud. Can your aux lights be mounted vertical instead of horizontal by chance? Thanks and for the wattage per emitter, I noticed it looked like it was the same named emitters, saw the 4 on the high side but didn't know about the low, guess the #16 should have gave it away. I have also lurked on the 4runner forum and looked at that Morimoto setup. Which wattage did you go with and what did you do on the high beam side? Really looks amazing on the 4runner. Side note, I have had LED flashlights that I've had to warranty, couldn't figure out why the battery had such a short life, in a dark room you could put the light up to your eye and see the slightest little glow, ever so slight. Just never know what might cause a draw on things.

Those look nice as well fonque. I'm not sure what the decoder is for, but can I assume its not needed? Are you using them with the projector globes still, light in the pic looks crisp? How long have you been running these as I see they are rated @ 25w , any r/r issues or have you noticed any flux in voltage if you have a voltmeter installed? With the globes suprised you didn't go the bi-xenon route, any reason?

Sorry Kevin, my mind blended the posts, I see that as I scroll back. My mind, it gets losts...often.

adkfinn you are correct on the r/r function, exactly why i was worried. Until Kevin point out I assumed all LED bulb were less wattage than their filament cousins. Even looking at the amazon link he sent, its hard to find a wattage spec. Obviously i don't want my r/r doing MORE work. Ideally a set of aux light in addition to the current setup would probably be gold, and although functional they look like spark plugs on frankenstein. Then Bi-xenon setup is a bit more work than I'm looking for at this point. The question is which wattage will you be going with, as i'm sure 35w is brighter to start than stock, the 50w are hella bright (not Hella brand) so a good/great projector seems manditory for proper setup, but those bulbs and the box get cooking too. Does that setup mean sans high beam? Kevin stated he didn't like the chips on the bulbs he was using, I'm kinda interested in trying something different then, I found these which I like the position of the emitter but can't seem to find the wattage. My cooling fan is on a manual switch so if I see something i dont like i can alway pop that on for some draw in a pinch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077B3SNJR/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B077B3SNJR&pd_rd_wg=CToBF&pd_rd_r=XK4P1ZQFT69A5C3R6N8H&pd_rd_w=9d2k4

Kevin, I know as well the downfalls of the r/r, think i'm running a MOSFET one now, still factory plugs running a VFRness as well. adkfinn, you certainly weren't rambling, good info on the bulbs to start. Sometimes I wonder if it just wouldnt be easier to remove the entire housing sans front glass and just mount a small LED light bar in its place, how much more work could it be vs a bi-xenon upgrade, sure thats all custom right, no dropin kits? I've got a cheap infared thermometer that i'll try and take temps of the r/r before I upgrade (or if), it'd be interesting to see the change in temp after the bulb change, but trying to be constant will prove difficult with rising summer air temps....

It been forever since I posted (or rode), and I'm certainly late to the game on LED headlight bulb upgrades but that just means more data now right? So its at the point where H4's gotta go, but my charging system has been a happy camper. What is the consensus on the impact led's make on the r/r? I read something about what sounds like a plate heatsink for the r/r Mello Dude was making, did it help or is it a necessity when upgrading? I was surprised to see some bulbs w/ high/low now, any vendor or bulb recomendations? Maybe if I can see at night I might surpase the whole 160 miles i put on last season, not the best season......

rhoderage, the more i thought of this, even if the tire is dry dont they normally slather on soapy water around the bead to seat? thats kinda what looks like spilled in on the picture here, not sure anything works for that.

dutchy, i've seen a couple posts about using said clamp, but how? or are you suggesting the slave be popped off too at the time of clutch work?

i'm gonna throw this out there, i could see the inside grooves being an issue, but the inside rubber is tacky as well. on my mountain bike to keep the tubes from sticking to the inside of the tires i coat the inside of the tires with baby powder, tubes never stick now. could this help the beads from sticking?

the lever position is what i was indeed refering too. i had the cover off while i was messing with it so i could see the travel of the plate the pushrod moved. can or did you verify the fiber plate with the larger id is the first one inserted? how long was the clutch apart, i noticed the slave started walking out within a couple of minutes, i kept compressing it, is it possible during the timeframe of your work the slave walked out and maybe you pushed it in compromising the seal and it leaked or is now leaking? btw i got some miles on my setup of ebc fiber/scuffed metals/stock springs and its nice, bike moves out.

so just last weekend i was messing with the ebc springs, i noticed i had to mess with the clutch lever travel to get full release, even then the thicker springs produce coil bind that shorten stroke travel. at this point things still should have worked but the increase in pull was a bit to much having wrist issues, went back to stock. flush and bleed for sure, but check if changing the lever travel has any effect.....

View File 98 - 01 vfr service manual Found this, not sure about the version but maybe it helps for now.. Submitter vfr350 Submitted 05/08/2016 Category Owners Manuals and other

Thanks Mikey, yeah went back and read the manual again too, i was looking for it on the metal plates, explains why i never found it. Got lucky cover came off gasket intact and the very first fiber plate was the larger. swapped buttoned up and now i can get in into neutral, no longer wanting to ghost off. details.....