fonque

get the chinese fairing, the whole kit is cheap and it doesnt take all that much work to get them to fit. But no they will not fit like oem. However, the paint on them looks great and they are easily replaced, just have to wait on shipping from china. I am on my 2nd set of chinese fairings. My first set I got for $470 3 years ago. My 2nd set I got for $345 last year. Also i have frame sliders and I HIGHLY recommend them. If you low side the bike or drop it. Its not the fairings you have to worry about, its the side mount radiators. If you have frame sliders, yes your fairings my still get some curb rash, but you will not smash your radiators.

I have run HIDs in all my cars for at least the last 10 years. I have alot of experience with retrofits and projector installs, and various brands. I have had issues with every one of my morimoto based installs. I have dealt with failed bulbs, failed relays, failed ignitors. The plus with buying from the retrofit source is their warranty policy is solid. They have replaced everything without issue. But I got tired of replacing stuff every few months. Ive tried the cheapest crap from DDM tuning all the way to OEM. If you want the most reliable setup OEM ballasts with Philips or Osram bulbs in a proper projector housing is the only way to go. It may be possible that I have had 10 years of bad luck, or 10 years of poor installs, but if you read complaints about morimoto products on hidplanet, you will see im not the only one that has had issues. Either way, LEDs are just easier, when something goes wrong, you only have to trouble shoot 2 components instead of 6 or 7.

You do not need the decoder, that is for CAN bus vehicles, like bmw bikes where changing the bulb type will throw errors. No the projector lenses were removed I am not sure what I going to do with them. The projector housing are bolt on, it can be installed so its reversible. The final reason I got rid of the HID setup was the voltage drain I found from the morimoto HID relay harness. It would drain my battery after 2 or 3 days of not riding. However, when running I had no issues with voltage drops. I have a usb charger with a voltage read out. The LED headlights have been completely trouble free. I have been running the JDM Astar 8th gen H4 bulbs since October of last year without issue.

I currently run these: http://www.jdmastar.com/product/313/8TH-Gen-H4-9003-LED-Headlight-Conversion-Kits-Set-of-2.html The only issue is you will have to spend some time to orient the bulb direction with the little set screw. Then you will have to re-aim the headlight housings to get a some really good output. The output and beam pattern are inferior to my old mini h1 projector retrofit, but so much less headache. They just work. I used to run a mini H1 HID retrofit set, but aftermarket HID ballasts and relays are all unreliable. Every 3 to 5 months I would have to replace something, a bulb, a balast, an ignitor, etc... too many components for these fragile systems.

Does anyone on the forum still sell pair block off plates for a 5th gen? Also as a temporary measure, what size is the hose that connects the pair valve to the airbox, so I can pick up the right sized rubber nipples?

I am not a fan of superbrightleds, I dont think their leds hold up to vehicle use over time. I have not had good luck with them. However, I would suggest jdmastar LED's I have them on my car and both of my bikes and no replacements so far in over a year. Also Phillips makes a pretty reliable red 7443 led.

You can use any gauge cluster you like. Its easiest to use a honda gauge cluster from a cbr600rr or 1000rr. make sure to get the wiring stock cluster wiring harness with it. You will need a speedo healer to correct the speedometer. The rest of the wires will have to be matched with the wiring diagrams from both bikes. But Honda has been using the same wiring colors with only minor variations for 30 years. I tossed around this idea for my cx500 and eventually settled on a very tiny danmoto nano.

I installed ebay aluminum radiators and a spal reverse flow fan, and my cooling issues have been solved. In the few months of commuting since the install, bike never goes above 221F. This even in stop and go DC traffic.

This is the best part, since installing the new radiators and spal fan my legs are significantly cooler! I think this is due to running a pusher fan instead of a puller. I think with a puller fan the air has no where to go but to your crotch. I've had a chance to ride in the mid 80s, and the bike just touched 221 in stop and go traffic. Temps we're pretty steady between 210 and 221 in heavy traffic.

I finally got her back on the road. I added some R6 grips, woodcraft bar end sliders, R&G frame sliders, a black bike bolt kit, a zero gravity double bubble, and led headlights. Now, when I have time, I need to give her a bath.

i am sure it could be re-welded. Its a very tiny pin hole leak.

I tried and ebay will not let me send the message. I have no idea how to contact other than through ebay's system.

The jb weld is just to get the bike back on the road so I can stop taking the metro train to work. I am on the hunt for a solution still.

I finally got a chance to do a 40 mile ride today on the new radiators and wow do they work!! It was only 59 F outside, and the bike while moving would only get to about 172. When stopped it would rise into the 190s. As soon as I started moving it would drop down again. I wasnt able to get it hot enough to test the new SPAL fan. If I could find a set that didnt leak at the weld, I would say this is a great pair of radiators.