Jump to content

BiKenG

Members
  • Content count

    566
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

BiKenG last won the day on December 6 2017

BiKenG had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

107 Great

About BiKenG

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer
  • Birthday 08/26/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR1200SP-eVo4
    CBR1000FFX
    VTR1000-eVo2
    VFR800R
    RCBX1000
    CRF450X
    Montesa 4RT
    Triumph ThruxtonR

Recent Profile Visitors

4934 profile views
  1. BiKenG

    ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

    Well I've never seen the actual manufacturing date marked on the plate like that. Normally you have to go cap in hand to the manufacturer to get that information and Honda UK want £30 (each bike) to do that and provide a dating certificate (sometimes needed for 'Historic' vehicle classification). In the US there's usually a large 4 digit year shown, but that's the model year. I have seen this on bikes in the UK, but I'm not now sure what the actual requirement is here. I just checked two 2012 bikes and can see no plate at all, although I have no recollection of removing them. Where's the plate supposed to be on a 2012 VFR1200F? I like the idea of the month and year of manufacture stamped on all plates. Should be mandatory in all markets. It would really help as the bike ages and also provide a clear understanding to any potential purchaser of how old the bike is, irrespective of when it may have been first registered and used (which is always stated on the registration doc). Not that dealers ever are ever economical with the truth about that. 😀
  2. BiKenG

    ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

    Different markets have different requirements for that and in any case, only state the model year which is not necessarily the same as year of manufacture as the latter is often in the previous year. Regarding a 2013 manufactured bike (so probably a 2014 model year) being sold in 2017, that doesn't surprise me at all with this model.
  3. No, apart from a wild guess. I'd be interested in weighing it to compare. Would need to think of a way to do that and also to obtain a standard VFR1200F to weigh at the same time (well, not simultaneously of course 🙂 ) to obtain a true comparison.
  4. BiKenG

    Gear Indicator

    I would disagree with the above opinions. I think they are a fantastic benefit and enable you to ride better. To ignore them or condemn them as only useful for idiots who have no right to be riding a bike is either ignorant or simply missing the point, although I'm not suggesting the previous replies fall into that category. A GPI is most useful for indicating top gear and first. As the others have mentioned, mostly in between it is not so useful, however it can still be handy on occasions. I find it particularly useful when dashing between Alpine hairpins which involves a lot of changing up and down the box and without a GPI it is easy to lose track of which gear you are in. That's not to say it is required to be able to ride, but when rapidly shifting down from e.g. top into the tight hairpin that you know will require the use of first gear, it is handy to be able to glance down and so know when you hit first and can control when you make that final shift and also don't try to change down any further which can cause excessive speed into the corner if you get it wrong, or bad wheel hopping when you inadvertently change down too many gears at once. None of this is really necessary on track when you are repeatedly performing the same actions and changing gear at recognised places on the track, but when riding rapidly on unfamiliar roads and that require rapid changes of speed and gear, a GPI is most definitely extremely useful. If you do not find this to be the case, then you are not making the best use of the information available to you.
  5. BiKenG

    Battery swap

    Correct. A standard battery charger is not really suitable. But you can get battery 'tenders' that can do both types and I now have a couple of those (and I can get more). I guess I'll slowly transition to all dual type devices, but for now those 2 will suffice. Don't forget, the lithium batteries hold their charge MUCH better than traditional lead acid types. The theory is you don't actually need a battery tender as they'll last for months without being used. I've not tested this so cannot comment, but reports I've read indicate it is true. It still amazes me that such a small battery which seems to weigh nothing spins over and starts the VFR1200 at least as well as the OEM battery. A great example of a good use of new technology. See, I'm not a complete luddite. 😀
  6. Sad to say, I've not visited Australia, but I've seen pictures of great scenery. Certainly less crowded than Europe and the UK in particular. I have my 4th and 5th gen projects too. But the eVo4 is my longer distance bike. Although I still fancy a CrossTourer as well. Oh and ...
  7. Not really as it sits down on the original fairing stay. Well it could be done by making a completely new bracket, but why? I think it looks the right height and does the job it is intended to do, keeping the bulk of the wind off me and allowing comfortable riding at the desired speeds. Any lower and I'd just be fighting more wind pressure. Personally I think any lower would not look right. But feel free to do your own conversion, with the screen in whatever position you desire. 😀 My main use for this bike is European 'touring'. Relaxed and easy mile munching but terrific in the twisties too. My FireFighter (damn, I need to change its name) is the ultimate weapon in the Alps, but although the eVo4 is initially noticeably heavier slinging it through the Alpine hairpins, that feeling soon vanishes and it is at least as rewarding. Also doesn't require any chain adjustment at any time during the trip. 😀
  8. Not at all. It's the Alien by Puig. I chose it because it was the look I wanted and only later discovered I could mount it to the original front fairing bracket with the original mirrors, although I raised them slightly with a 10mm spacer. Rear view is good even though they look quite low. I'm intending to replace the projector light units with LED, but not found anything suitable yet. I have an idea though so watch this space. I think I may have bought the last 2 Aliens though as Puig has discontinued that fairing/screen. It's always the same, I discover something I want just as the manufacturer decides to discontinue it. Not that I'm aware of. The engine is quite quiet mechanically and the exhaust is surprisingly quiet despite the very short muffler (from a ZX-10R). In fact it makes a lovely V4 sound. Very smooth and mellow. Ask Mohawk, he's followed me. What I think you're referring to is gold aluminium mesh which covers the air intakes into the airbox. That's a possibility, but right now I think the exhaust might need re-packing. It has about 7-8K miles on it so it quite likely does and I thought it was sounding a bit more raspy than usual on the last trip. I'll see. I might try and just record something anyway. I'll add it here when I do.
  9. That's why in general I tend to not use the term 'Streetfighter'. I prefer 'naked roadster' or something similar. The original streetfighters were stripped down (often after a crash) and the intention was for it to look scary. But I just want a naked version of bikes I like, that Honda don't do as standard. Not intended to be stunters, or scary in any way. Just with a more upright and comfortable riding position and not covered in plastic. When I started riding bikes there were virtually no fairings on road bikes. I followed the 'faster is better' mantra with sportsbikes for years, but eventually grew out of that. I no longer feel the desire to try and wrap myself around the petrol tank and always having to don full leathers before going for a ride. I guess most here feel similarly, that's why we like the VFR, but I like to go further and shed the plastics. But 'streetfighter'? Nah. 😀
  10. BiKenG

    Battery swap

    I can confirm that a Shorai LFX14L2 - BS12 battery is man enough for the VFR1200. This is such a diddly small little battery and so light it seems like it will float away, but it turns over and starts my VFR1200F as well as the original lead acid ever did. This battery is even smaller than the battery normally used in the FireBlade and CRF450X, but as I said, works great. Caveat. It is now summer and lithium batteries are known to struggle more when cold. I've no idea how much it would be affected, but it can be overcome by warming the battery slightly first (just turn on headlights for a short while) and in any case, I don't ride when it's that cold so I don't care. 😁 Also, if you're trying to run loads of accessories you may struggle. Having said that, you shouldn't be trying to run more than the generator can cope with in normal running anyway. If you are, then ride time will be limited whatever size battery you use. So I don't really see this as a problem. Anyway, for my usage there are no such issues and it's not only a great way to save weight, but the space it gains allows me to also carry spare fuses, repair tape and puncture repair kit, all in less overall space than taken up by the original battery. The above is not simply self advertising, but personal experience. However, I am able to supply Shorai batteries at a great price to members although probably only makes sense in the UK. Anyone want a good original VFR1200F battery for the cost of shipping, just let me know.
  11. BiKenG

    Fuel tank and level

    I stuck to just quoting miles/litre as that avoids the US/Imp. gallon confusion. I also quite like it and find myself thinking in those units. As I mentioned, it must be kept in mind that pre 2012 bikes relied on the sender output to determine low fuel level. But this is not accurate and so in 2012 they added the low fuel level sensor like (all that I know) other Hondas. This works entirely independently from the main sender and is quite accurate. I have the VFR1200X Crosstourer dash on my bike and the fuel display is not yet matched to the F sender output. The display basically is not getting the full range it expects so drops quicker from full and still shows at least 2 bars when low fuel level is detected. But what is interesting is that as soon as that low fuel level is detected (due to the low fuel level sensor), even though the dash might still be showing 3 bars, the display immediately changes to a single flashing bar. So that low fuel level warning definitely overrides whatever the main level sender was indicating prior to the low level being detected.
  12. BiKenG

    Fuel tank and level

    Well the range of the sender unit is unlikely to have changed, but I guess it's possible the arm could become bent and shift the whole output, up or down. It's also worth remembering that prior to 2012 there was NO low fuel sensor. They just relied on the main level sender output to decide when to display the low level warning in the dash. But this was rather unreliable so they fitted an independent low level sensor from 2012 onwards. This required a change to the tank and also the dash. If they have become mixed up then you might get unexpected results. The first check would be to measure the full and empty readings of the main sensor. They should be within the specs as stated in the manual, that's 12-14 and 119-121 Ohms respectively. As you can see, mine are slap bang in the middle at both ends. So I know my sender is good.
  13. BiKenG

    Look ma! No cables

    The reservoir cover screws are just gold anodised Al. countersunk Allen screw, M4 if memory serves correctly. If not available from eBay then I almost certainly obtained them from Pro-Bolt, a UK supplier of fancy nuts and bolts. Great stuff, but they're not cheap. The bar ends were cheap off eBay and I machined them to fit the ends of my bars. They originally used basic rubber blocks that expanded inside the bars as you tightened the screws (cheap and nasty), but now are screwed directly into the bar heaters and both held firmly and securely in place. The plugs on the inner ends of the bars I made in either Delrin or nylon, I forget which but I think the former. Since you likely are using standard bars, I suggest the R&G bar ends. In stainless steel with a black plastic cap at the end. They are made to fit Honda bars and are screwed into the anti vibration weights as standard bar ends do, but I think they look much nicer and in theory if you drop the bike and just damage the plastic end, you wouldn't need to replace the entire metal fitting. I say "in theory" as the only time I've tested this I managed to wear away the plastic and a big corner off the stainless so had to replace the entire assembly, but that was my fault, not R&G's.
  14. Much has been talked about the fuel capacity of the VFR1200F, but in order to fully understand how the fuel level sender is operating, I conducted a test with my 2012. Starting with a completely empty tank (i.e. dry, not just unable to pump any more) I measured the sender resistance and then added fuel litre by litre, measuring the sender's resistance at each step. At 19 litres it is completely full, up to the very top and some way above Honda's recommended maximum level, but in my opinion there's no need to take any notice of Honda in this instance. There's at least an extra litre that can be squeezed in after the level has reached the bottom of the anti splash ring around the filler neck. Honda say "no more", but why. What's gonna happen. The worst is that it might drip a bit out the overflow (although never had that myself) and the best is that you gain additional range. Anyway, whatever the rights or wrongs of this, it's what I measured. In fact it's nicely symmetrical then as there are 4 litres at the top and also 4 at the bottom that do not change the sender's output since it is already at the ends of its travel. It is also far more linear than I expected. I added an 'Ideal' straight line to the chart so you can see, but the reality is not as far out as one might expect. I also discovered that the low level warning came on at 180 miles with about 3.5L remaining in the tank, so I was able to squeeze in (i.e. right to the very top) 15.5 L. That represents about 11.5 miles/litre average which is quite acceptable IMO. Hope others will find this of interest.
  15. BiKenG

    Look ma! No cables

    Yes of course there's electrical cables (and hydraulic hose on clutch side), as before and no way to dispense with those. In any case, they're no bother really as they can be tucked in and strapped nice and tight and out of the way. Throttle (and clutch) cables need long smooth curves that means they stick out a long way and flap about and need a lot of clearance to allow the bars to turn. Having said that, electrical cables can be run through the bars which can look even neater, but not only is it a real faff to do, but it's a total PIA when you need to work on them or take the bars off etc. That's simply not worth the effort. Throttle and clutch cables are what needs to be eliminated IMO. Others will think differently, but that's up to them and not my concern. This is my bike and I like it. 😀
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.