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BiKenG last won the day on December 6 2017

BiKenG had the most liked content!

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About BiKenG

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer
  • Birthday 08/26/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • In My Garage:
    Montesa 4RT
    Triumph ThruxtonR

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  1. BiKenG

    Gear Indicator

    Yes, those are the sensor and bush to which I was referring. If the later sprocket cover that accepts the sensor will fit the earlier bike (highly likely) then you're home and dry. Otherwise, you could modify an early sprocket cover to allow the sensor to be mounted onto it.
  2. BiKenG

    Gear Indicator

    The first Hondas to have an electronic speedo used a sensor mounted on the final drive output sprocket cover that was driven from a special plastic 'bush' on the sprocket bolt. As long as the basic sprocket cover fitment to crankcases was not changed, this meant an earlier bike could have this added and an electronic speedo utilised. The FireBlade was like this and I believe the VFR also, but cannot be 100% sure. If it was, then you'd need the later sprocket cover and the sensor that was mounted on it. Ultimately, Honda moved the speed pickup to the gearbox with the sensor mounted directly on the crankcases, which is not so easy to retrofit 😞 In either case, a speedo will generally read 5-10% too fast. But this can be corrected with a Speedo Healer so you can have an accurate reading.
  3. I can see them now. That wasn't the case when I first looked. I'm poring over them now. 😀 Doesn't anyone have a Triumph wheel to measure its offset?
  4. Fixing picture links would be great.
  5. BiKenG

    Gear Indicator

    I'm 99% certain the 4th Gen parts could be used on a 3rd Gen and I'm 100% certain that one way or another, using 4th Gen and/or similar parts from other Hondas, you'd be able to get a Honda electronic speedo drive on a 3rd Gen. But there are other ways to pick up a speed signal with a small sensor attached by the wheel and picking up from a moving part, often a special disc bolt. The best method rather depends on what the ultimate goal is and what dash you intend to be using.
  6. Carbon fibre finish vinyl wrap can be very effective when carefully applied 🙂
  7. BiKenG

    ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

    The main ECU and ABS ECU do not talk to each other. The ABS ECU conditions the speed pulse signals from the Wheel Speed Sensors and passes them on to the main ECU, but there is no other connection. The main ECU is unaware of anything to do with the ABS.
  8. Apart from the dash, the only carbon fibre on the bike shields the wheels. 😀
  9. BiKenG

    ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

    Well I've never seen the actual manufacturing date marked on the plate like that. Normally you have to go cap in hand to the manufacturer to get that information and Honda UK want £30 (each bike) to do that and provide a dating certificate (sometimes needed for 'Historic' vehicle classification). In the US there's usually a large 4 digit year shown, but that's the model year. I have seen this on bikes in the UK, but I'm not now sure what the actual requirement is here. I just checked two 2012 bikes and can see no plate at all, although I have no recollection of removing them. Where's the plate supposed to be on a 2012 VFR1200F? I like the idea of the month and year of manufacture stamped on all plates. Should be mandatory in all markets. It would really help as the bike ages and also provide a clear understanding to any potential purchaser of how old the bike is, irrespective of when it may have been first registered and used (which is always stated on the registration doc). Not that dealers ever are ever economical with the truth about that. 😀
  10. BiKenG

    ABS malfunction on 2016 bike.

    Different markets have different requirements for that and in any case, only state the model year which is not necessarily the same as year of manufacture as the latter is often in the previous year. Regarding a 2013 manufactured bike (so probably a 2014 model year) being sold in 2017, that doesn't surprise me at all with this model.
  11. No, apart from a wild guess. I'd be interested in weighing it to compare. Would need to think of a way to do that and also to obtain a standard VFR1200F to weigh at the same time (well, not simultaneously of course 🙂 ) to obtain a true comparison.
  12. BiKenG

    Gear Indicator

    I would disagree with the above opinions. I think they are a fantastic benefit and enable you to ride better. To ignore them or condemn them as only useful for idiots who have no right to be riding a bike is either ignorant or simply missing the point, although I'm not suggesting the previous replies fall into that category. A GPI is most useful for indicating top gear and first. As the others have mentioned, mostly in between it is not so useful, however it can still be handy on occasions. I find it particularly useful when dashing between Alpine hairpins which involves a lot of changing up and down the box and without a GPI it is easy to lose track of which gear you are in. That's not to say it is required to be able to ride, but when rapidly shifting down from e.g. top into the tight hairpin that you know will require the use of first gear, it is handy to be able to glance down and so know when you hit first and can control when you make that final shift and also don't try to change down any further which can cause excessive speed into the corner if you get it wrong, or bad wheel hopping when you inadvertently change down too many gears at once. None of this is really necessary on track when you are repeatedly performing the same actions and changing gear at recognised places on the track, but when riding rapidly on unfamiliar roads and that require rapid changes of speed and gear, a GPI is most definitely extremely useful. If you do not find this to be the case, then you are not making the best use of the information available to you.
  13. BiKenG

    Battery swap

    Correct. A standard battery charger is not really suitable. But you can get battery 'tenders' that can do both types and I now have a couple of those (and I can get more). I guess I'll slowly transition to all dual type devices, but for now those 2 will suffice. Don't forget, the lithium batteries hold their charge MUCH better than traditional lead acid types. The theory is you don't actually need a battery tender as they'll last for months without being used. I've not tested this so cannot comment, but reports I've read indicate it is true. It still amazes me that such a small battery which seems to weigh nothing spins over and starts the VFR1200 at least as well as the OEM battery. A great example of a good use of new technology. See, I'm not a complete luddite. 😀
  14. Sad to say, I've not visited Australia, but I've seen pictures of great scenery. Certainly less crowded than Europe and the UK in particular. I have my 4th and 5th gen projects too. But the eVo4 is my longer distance bike. Although I still fancy a CrossTourer as well. Oh and ...
  15. Not really as it sits down on the original fairing stay. Well it could be done by making a completely new bracket, but why? I think it looks the right height and does the job it is intended to do, keeping the bulk of the wind off me and allowing comfortable riding at the desired speeds. Any lower and I'd just be fighting more wind pressure. Personally I think any lower would not look right. But feel free to do your own conversion, with the screen in whatever position you desire. 😀 My main use for this bike is European 'touring'. Relaxed and easy mile munching but terrific in the twisties too. My FireFighter (damn, I need to change its name) is the ultimate weapon in the Alps, but although the eVo4 is initially noticeably heavier slinging it through the Alpine hairpins, that feeling soon vanishes and it is at least as rewarding. Also doesn't require any chain adjustment at any time during the trip. 😀

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