garcenw

I bought and installed a pair of the Knight Design pegs. I got the ones MaxSwell shows in the picture above except I choose the silver colored ones. My comments: 1) You notice more vibrations at certain RPMS, but it was not annoying for the 2 or 3 miles I traveled for a quick test. 2) I would say the drop is less than the 1-3/8" KD claims. I didn't have proper measuring equipment at home, but I jerry-rigged something with wooden blocks and index cards. I got about 1-1/8" difference in the center of the pegs. Keep in mind that the rubber on the OEM peg compresses some, so the effective drop will be a little less. Nonetheless, you can feel a noticeable difference between OEM and the KD pegs. 3) Space gets crowded on the shifter side. I tried rotating the shifter down 1 spline, but that was too much. I went back to my original location and it is a hair high, but still better than one spline down. I'll try it as is for a bit and if it doesn't work out, I'll bend the shifter a bit. I ended up bending the tang down on the kickstand to give me the room to move my foot around. This made the kickstand harder to deploy (see 4 below). 4) With the tang bent, it's harder to deploy the kickstand. I'm using size 45 Alpinestars SMX-6 V2 Drystar boots and they are pretty bulky. When I stick my heel in between the shifter and foot peg to deploy the kickstand, my heel rubs against both the foot peg and the shift lever. If I do what MaxSwell says and look down, it's not issue, but if I don't, I sometimes accidentally shift the transmission from N to 1st. If you have narrow boots or a smaller foot, this might not be an issue, but if you are using boots with any sort of spine or lateral support hinge or one with wide soles or a large heal cup, this will be something to watch out for. I suspect it would be less of an issue with some of the narrower boots that I have. 5) I took out the locknut on the brake adjustment to lower the pedal as much as possible. The issue is that the threads on the adjustment stud hit the lever before the hex bottoms. I backed off half a turn, but the pedal wasn't low enough. I then cut three threads off with a Dremmel and was then able to bottom the face of the hex, but it still wasn’t enough. It is tolerable, but not ideal. I'm going to try it like this, but I'm pretty sure I will end up bending the lever as JoelF did above.

I took a pic today to better describe my concern. In the picture below, which is with the stock setup, I took my boot and placed it on the peg with the shift pad of the boot just under the shift lever rubber. There is a slight upward torque on the boot to ensure it is snug against the shift lever. If you zoom in on the scale in the pic, you can see there is approximately 7/8" between the top of the tang and the sole of the boot. Now if you lower the peg 1-3/8" as Knight Design claims and you lower the shift lever a similar amount, it stands to reason that your boot can hit the side stand tang. Now I realize that you may not necessarily lower the shift lever the same amount as the pegs, but tang contact with the boot still seems possible, perhaps likely. What my picture does not capture is what actually happens dynamically, i.e. in actual usage. It is possible one's foot isn't that far inboard when shifting. If contact does occur there are things you can do, such as bend the tang, trim the tang, or add a spacer to the stand's stowed position travel stop, but I'm just wondering what the actual users are experiencing in regards to this.

MaxSwell, With the pegs lowered, I would naturally rotate the shift lever on the spline to lower it and this was part of my concern, i.e. my foot would be lower both front and rear when upshifting. Obviously, if needed, I can add a spacer to the portion of the side stand the travel stop hits as long as cornering clearance isn't compromised. I'm just wondering if the tang interfering with ones foot has been an issue for those using the KD pegs. You mentioned lowering blocks, but the pic above doesn't have the blocks. It instead has the KD pegs. Did you mean the 2000 you used to own had KD pegs and you noticed no interference with the tang?

The space above the fill line is called vapor space. It is there to allow for thermal expansion of fuel when the temperature of the fuel gets above the fuel's temperature when it was stored in your gas station's underground tanks. The vapor space is designed to test your patience, but with enough persistence you can fill the tank to the point where you cover the vent. Most of the time, nothing happens when you do this as you will immediately start consuming fuel upon leaving the gas station. But say you live really close to your gas station (e.g. on the same block) and parked your bike at home in the sun on a hot day right after filling: you might see some fuel leak out of the tank vent. Fuel on the ground adds risk, so manufacturers add vapor space to mitigate that risk. If you want to fill per Honda's design intent, fill to the bottom of the fuel inlet. I'm not familiar with the 6th gen, but it should have a conical opening where the rubber gasket seals against. Fill to the bottom of that when storing the bike. When immediately riding for some time after filling, you can fill her to the brim.

I'm contemplating ordering the Knight Design lowering pegs for my 1998 VFR800. For those that have tried the KD lowering pegs on their 1998 - 2001 VFR800, I have a question: Is there an issue with kickstand tang clearance when you reach your foot under the shift lever to upshift? I ask, because, visually, it seems like the area of the foot under the arch may hit the tang when you reach under the shift lever. By "tang", I mean the protrusion you use to deploy the side stand. Thanks. - Walt

I installed regular H4 bulbs. The harness doesn't even get warm to the touch (on an 80 degree F day).

I'm contemplating ordering the Knight Design lower pegs for my 1998 VFR800. For those that have tried the KD lowering pegs on their 1998 - 2001 VFR800, I have a question: What did you do about adjusting the brake pedal height? With the stock pegs, I have about 1/8" of threads left on the adjustment end of the brake pushrod. If I used all that adjustment, that would translate to roughly 3/8 " at the pedal which wouldn't be enough for me. How did you guys get past the issue of the limited range of adjustment in the brake rod? Thanks. - Walt

I’m contemplating using H4 headlight bulbs in my 1998 VFR800. I see from reading the forums that some have fitted H4 bulbs by trimming the tabs of the standard H4 bulb to fit Honda’s oddball headlight bulb socket. My concern is for the wires, connectors, and switches in the headlight circuit. A standard H4 is rated at 60W/55W, while Honda’s VFR bulb is rated at 45W/45W. A standard H4 will pull 33% or 22% more current, depending on whether it’s in high beam or low beam. For those that fitted standard H4 bulbs, especially in hot climates, have you had any issue with melting harnesses? Thanks. - Walt