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Hi everyone,I've fitted a quickshifter to my 800x,unfortunately it didn't come with instructions,I've found a pdf online to which ive followed,I haven't tried it yet because I have one query I'd like to sort out. Could somebody please share a photo of the gear lever onto its shaft,the instructions I read (which are for a F model)said to line the dots up on F but I've noticed mine has two dots just want to make sure I have it right before riding the bike thanks Sean C

^^^It's a temporary cover while I work on the bike guys...

+1 on this. Pneumatically locked PCV's is how my old BMW blew a VC gasket.

I have a set of the smaller style for my last 86 VFR750F build. Always preferred them too. Just need to remove the filler panel and fab some mounts/stays on the inside. I actually bought two sets, one OEM Honda and one set of after market replicas. There's a couple other Hondas that used the same small front indicators. You can also go smaller protruding using the US spec hole with an indicator that matches the shape of the Turn Signal Stay.

This is from the 6th gen manual.

I'd love to, but you could not afford my time At 78 y/o, I am slow, and I could die before it was completed. 🙂 Besides, I did not keep the plug as I never wanted to do another! My moto "I'm slow but I'm rough" allows me to keep my distance when others want me to do something on their bikes Feel free to copy the concept, I would help you with the details!

Wow Captian, you have done a heap of mods to that bike. What's next? I do like the appearance of the bike - white always stood out in a group - and you do have quite a group Well done! Bjorn - how did you go with your search for an early VFR? A quick "give away" on a '86 -'87 Jap import are the front indicators, which are mounted from behind the fairing, with just the colored Lense protruding through I own one, actually like that feature and added them to my mild custom '89 because they look clean, while the '89 front indicator looks big and clumsy (in my opinion) Good luck with your search

Another foggy memory thing, and could be wrong, but I think it's the voltage monitor wire. Some OEM R/Rs had it others didn't. With you new R/R rewire job, you can pretty much ignore it.(Assuming you're doing a proper job.)

If you bother pulling the forks apart....do the front end. Proper springs and valving. It will make all the difference in your riding experience and safety.

Dayton(Centerville) guy here, I know you will be busy with visiting your parents, but if you wanted to stop by, I'm up. If the bike needs something to complete the trip, we could take care of it here.

What do I think? How 'bout .....Wow!... Awesome job! ....Make one for me? (J/k)

What do people think of my tail box, the single item I am perhaps most proud of? It follows the lines of the bike as originally designed, not the boxy cowl the factory "hung" over the seat. With the pillion seat entirely removed, the internal capacity is somewhat increased, so I not only carry tools, but my wet weather gear as well. In fine weather I can carry small shopping purchases, snacks or whatever. The lid is front hinged, and the rear has a concealed cable operated latch, using the original lockable latch from the seat and a new extended cable. The whole box is mounted solid down on the bike frame with minimum 10 thou clearance all round from that very fragile tail Moulding. The whole thing is made in fiberglass, is completely weatherproof and no - I do not want to make another, there were too many hours spent building that one! Photo below shows it during the painting process and has the rider's seatback attached using the same screws that hold the lid hinge, fixed from inside the box A rubber seal (not shown) fits across the front, under the lid, diverting any possible water down to the sides where it can drain freely out along the side channels

I've got my 2001 on the lift to replace the fork seals and put my third rear tire of the season on, both a result of pegging the fun meter this year. While there I decided to have a look at replacing my regulator with a FH020AA. When I removed the rear cowl and had a look, I was surprised to see an extra black wire coming out of the oem Regulator, that transitioned into a white with black stripe at the otherside of the connector. Neither of these show up in the Clymers or Honda diagrams that I have. Below are pics of the connector and the diagrams I have. Everything looks to be oem. What is it for?

but sometimes I struggle to structure my own work clearly

Thanks for that - got it all pulled apart and she's now running sweet. A combination of a vacuum hose disconnected and the wax unit piston being seized. Next job is the fork seals....hopefully tackle that at the weekend

I like that idea. Too bad they are out of stock. I was looking for handles for 2 reasons mainly. To strap tail bag to and for something to grab onto when I put the bike on the center stand. I need to figure that one out. If it's able to be done on our bikes. If not I will go with engraving each side on the key so I would be back to one key. Of course this is if the dealer that I bought the lock set from is a bust. If anyone sees the link for how someone did rekeyed their tumbler on this forum please forward it to me. I have issue with trying to search anything on this site..... It never comes up correctly for me. Not sure I want to go with the keyless cap option yet. It most certainly is an option. You guys are really a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate all the help I'm getting. I imagine I will keep everyone busy for a while with this bike and my needs. 🙂

Keys are cut on both sides only for convenience. Only one side engages the tumblers. At the Honda shop we would have keys cut with each number on different sides when somebody had one component replaced vs buying a whole new lock set. ($$$$$) EDIT: Sorry FromMaine... repeat information!! Great tip! I will read previous posts better next time. Also, gas cap tumblers can be re-configured to match the other key you want. I have read a couple very cool posts about that in the last year. On here I think.

there's always the option of a keyless cap, not for everyone but it does solve the problem of "one key for everything". i only have one because my bike came with one but i personally don't mind it too much. also if you need grab handles but were looking for luggage mounts anyway, this is an option: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-257fz-top-case-support-brackets-honda-vfr800-1998-2001

Oil yes. Starting it periodically probably did a lot more harm than good by leaving moisture in the engine. And if they left fuel in it...you could be in for some fueling issues on your trip. Tires yes...unless they feel okay and look okay. They won't perform like new, but I've ridden on plenty of properly stored 10 year old tires without any issues. Brake/clutch fluid flushes...absolutely. Original battery? I'd be very curious to see how it were to hold up after a long but uneventful life so far! 🙂

It's simple to do. If it was needed and you didn't do it, that could end up being very costly, if not needed but you did it anyway, so what? JMHO

That's a great idea. I never thought you could do that with the key. At this time I placed an order for the part number of the lock set with a dealer online, we will see if they cancel the order. If not then I might end up with old new stock of a lock set. If they cancel I will pm you. I put a taller or touring windscreen on the bike yesterday. That seemed to keep the wind off of my body and right around the top of my helmet. I can see the screw problems are going plague me on this bike. I took the small screw out of the left side of windscreen and the right side screw collet came out of the plastic fairing. I'm worried to lose that small plastic that they screw holds there and never to be able to replace it....lol. I guess I will try a bigger collet for the screw to go into. The challenges of an older bike. On a positive note after today I will have over 200 miles on it and its first fill up of ethanol free gas. Can anyone tell what the idle rpms should be? I noticed I was sitting at 1600 to 1800.

I think reheating the solder from under the circuit would do the trick. Might be a dry solder that has lost contact.

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