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Hi everyone! TIA for any advice you may have for me... The plastic on my bike has been used and abused....its in rough shape. The front fender, especially. Has anyone had any luck repairing these plastics with fiberglass? Any tips or experiences with this sort of project would be greatly appreciated! My Dad has some experience fiberglassing on boats, but this is a little different with the plastic. Thanks all, keep the shiny side up!!

Hi MisterBill, Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

HI --- I am out of biz on this stuff, maybe search for blackbird plates, they are the same... - I still have R/R mounts wasting away on the shelf.... can still sell whats left...

I realize this is 2 years ago, but here's to hoping..... Do you have any sets left?

Copy that! This may be kick I need to stop procrastinating & pull images off my old phone. Anecdotally, after the swap, the first start took an absurdly long time. Somewhere on the order of 3-5 minutes of total starter duty cycle over the course of an hour. I guess the electrical pixies were having a hard time finding a path home from coils to the plug's ground. Runs like a champ since. She kicks on the first turn of the crank. Never had a bike start so ready to go.

I can't wait to see the pics and read the how to. Add it to my winter bike tune up.

Perhaps I should finally make that post ... I did mine last year. I think I can dig up the photos from my old water damaged phone. (... On that front, I'm actually quite behind on posts I should be making & updating... ) It takes some knowledge of cutting & soldering, keeping track of which cylinders trace to which wires, and using plenty of honda-branded electrical tape 😉 Going by my eBay purchase history, I used CBR 1000 coils on a chopped up 06-07 CBR 1000 sub-harness.

Hi everyone, I wanted to let everyone know that there is one last place that has cut out patterns of PPF for the 5th gen VFR that you can install yourself. I bought a set. I will have to let everyone know how it the install goes. I live on a dirt road, and I would like my VFR to stay looking as nice as possible. I called and searched around for places to PPF my VFR. The price range I got was $2500 to $3000. To me that is a lot of upgrades to my bike. I just wanted to let everyone know so we can support the last place carrying a useful aftermarket improvement product for the 5th gen. The cost is really reasonable as well. They are located in the UK but ship internationally. I have no affiliation with them. They have it for just your tank or a full kit. https://bike-protect.co.uk/products/honda-vfr800-1998-2001-ppf-paint-protection-film-kit?variant=49450360439120

Headshake can also push the pistons in so that the first application of brakes afterward...does nothing.

Any bike can experience a front end head shake... it happened once to my RC45 in 57K miles... but head shakes only happen under acceleration as the front tire hits a bump or finds a rut... a slight disturbance in front tire alignment occurs and the rider feels the head shake... and if the rider stays loose on the bars they will not grow into the dreaded tank slapper... the RC45 is known for its reserves of composure... technically speaking steering dampeners don't cure the head shakes rather they lessen the degree the rider feels... Racers employ steering dampeners so they don't have to back the throttle off during the heat of battle... they don't mind if the head shakes as long they can still accelerate... for the street use a steering dampener will just make more effort in your steering with little return of stability... before you consider a steering dampener I think it's best to have your riding technique will sorted out and be in the hunt for lower lap times... In short... Deceleration Shimmy = front tire problems... (annoying)... Wobble = front end problems... (could grow into the dreaded tank slapper) Weave = rear end problems... (annoying)...

Thanks for the info. I hate to run this thread off course. On my old bike I did this same conversion, but I needed the wiring and all. I moved it from spark plug wires to COP. I have searched this forum for more info about the coil conversion. Not a lot of info of what is needed to do it. Like I would need just the coils and they plug right up or do I need to get the wiring as well and splice them into my wiring on the bike? Does wiring connectors plug right up to the VFR? Apologies for all the questions.

I've used Suzuki '06-'07 750 coil sticks on both my 5gens, Suzuki part # 33410-02H00 and cheap on eBay and same I think as the 1K bike. Also pick up a used 08-11 Honda cbr1000RR coil wiring harness, plugs right in to the coils.

I love the "dont believe they exist" argument lol. I'm not sold on it because I have yet to buy one 😬 My understanding is that they are used to band-aid death wobbles/tank slappers. Even on my adv that death wobbles at 80mph, It usually indicates low front tire pressure to me, so I know when it's low... Cant put a price on peace of mind, I understand... it's just not an item on my long list of calculated riding risks that I concern myself with. My cbr came with one from the factory. I'd wager honda put one there as dynamics are a complicated thing, and the geometry of the bike (primarily the rake) demanded it. (2 degrees steeper on the CBR than the 5th gen VFR)

Hi Dutch. I don't remember the year, but any 1050 Speed coilsticks are fine. One of the best match is also the GSX-R 1000 set What's important is to have a long enough pipe to come out of the head pit and a 2 wires connection. I.e., avoid VFR G6 sticks, that have 3 wires connectors

What year coilsticks did you go with off the Speed triple? I'm new here. Just bought a 5th gen with 24k miles on it and I would like to do a few improvements on it. I have yet to take delivery of the bike, but I'm gathering parts in anticipation of its arrival.

Steering dampers absolutely work...but not all bikes are ridden in a way that they make a difference.

Pull out push in, no screws involved, on the G8. Just under the lever pivot.

Hi m8. Long story short I've not really ridden her yet and certainly not gotten around to changing all the fluids like she needs. This is a long-term keeper so I'm going to invest some £££ into her, with planned suspension upgrade as well as crash bars (already bought - SW-Motech), DRLs, ECU Flash depending on how she feels when I've ridden her more, possibly new tyres, Sat Nag (thinking about a large screen Android Auto display), new seat, heated grips etc. I'll start the work this winter as I retire at the end of Oct and will have more time on my hands to do this but in the meantime, she has her MoT (annual safety test) tomorrow morning 🤞

What a find!! If only i knew about these before I bought my transalp... oh well What was the dinero damage?

HI Skids, How are you getting on with the VFR1200X? what's she like on fuel? what's the actual fuelling like? snatchy? I'd imagine she goes through rear tyres pretty quick? been looking for a touring bike with shaft drive, just can't bring myself to buy a BMWGS! also been looking at Yamaha S10's. Thanks.

Simple answer is no. Frame is unique to V-tech model 2002> Only a V-tech 800 pedal will fit, check your rearset bracket isn't bent as well, loads of bike breakers on Fleabay...

Miguel, Your continued work to run and manage VFRD is so very much appreciated. This forum is excellent compared to others, and miles better than the other forums that have been bought/sold and monetized to death. Please don't let this excellent repository of information and like minded folks fall to the hands of an owner that only sees the site as a source of revenue as opposed to the niche home of an out of production motorcycle with a rabid and faithful, but shrinking, following.

Hi Fritzer, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Thanks for the thoughtful reply, Miguel. Please excuse the delay in my reply! I really respect what you’ve built with VFRD, it’s clear this isn’t just a forum, but a close-knit community that’s grown together over the years. We totally get the importance of preserving that culture. If Group Builder were ever involved, we’d stay behind the scenes, no big changes, no disruption: just quiet support with tech, upkeep, and tasteful monetization to help with costs, not get in the way. That said, if there’s ever a number that would make you pause and consider a future where the forum is still thriving but less on your shoulders, feel free to let me know! If that's ever down the road, I’d be honored if you kept me in mind. Wishing you and the community nothing but the best, David -- David On Fri, Jul 18, 2025 at 6:32 AM Miguel Mayo wrote:

Hi folks, as written here, I betrayed my country 😁 keeping the V but halving the cylinders. The bike was in bad conditions, witnessing very poor maintenance and one fall; the owner told about just a small tip-over but the signs on fairings, and engine covers let me thing it was something a bit more severe. Nothing serious, but hey... a dent on the tank, footpeg bracket bent down, shift lever broken... it's not an innocent tip-over 😅 The final drive was crap, grips at the handlebars was worn and ominously sticky (I don't wanna know anything more 😅) Also, the owner cut out the tail to install a leaner plate holder and led indicators, but the result has been pretty hacky. And the electrical job below the seat is even worst 💀: Anyway, this bike won me (inexplicably 😅 ), and I decided to start a new project bike on it. The leitmotif of the project will reflect the essence of this bike (that definitely won me): simplicity. I'm going to simplify it at the utmost, removing any redundance and not essential stuff. At first, I started disassembling the wreck: Its "ginormic" carburetors are really impressive One of the first job to do, needless to say, it's the PAIR removal. On VTR, PAIR actuator is not electric but vacuum actuated by a hose coming from front carburetor. I removed all the stuff and plugged the connection: But this bike was in need of something more serious than cosmetic trifles. Timing chain tensioners were about to fail, especially on front cylinder (that's pretty common on VTR), so i removed anything into the "V" to easily access the tensioners and replace them; as obvious, I set the timing, first: Since I needed to remove the cooling system to access the front tensioner, I took the occasion to a small upgrade, so I replaced the hoses with silicone units; also, the connections to the carburetors have been removed (VTR has a heating line for carburetors, but I defintely do NOT need it)... ...and the connections of the thermostat housing gave been plugged Once fulfilled this task, I passed to the radiators before reassembpling the cooling system, since I decided to replace EVERY not stressed screw with ergal component. the cooling system has been reinstalled: In this phase I took the occasion to reorganize the breathing/bleeding lines in a tidy way, since the OEM hoses are loooong and twisted into the gut of the bike: Prior to close the work on the engine, I made the same coil conversion made on the VFR Here's a picture with the old system compared with the new. To finalize, a set of iridium sparks and the engine is done. After this, it was the turn of the final drive. Unfortunately I've not been able to find the Supersprox sprocket I was looking for, so I bitterly fell back on a standard JT unit (Z+2) I compensated the lack of the supersporx sprocket with a ergal nut for the rear axle, and aluminium wheel spacers And just to show how autistic I am, I even dismantled the chain adjusters to restore and clean them, bringing them to mint conditions 😅 I removed the original rear brake reservoir (just below the seat, on the right side) by installing a smaller one directly connected to the pump; in this way I removed the reservoir itself and the long connection hose, but above all I could move the R/R in its place, where it can get more air I installed the footpeg adapter I used on the VFR, to raise them up without touching the brackets (but I have some plan about it 😎) The bike came with a Leovince exhaust cans set. I have the OEM also, but I do not have the carburetors jets, so I decided to keep the Leovince's on. I raised up the mufflers, and the original brackets have been removed So far, I made some ROUGH and UGLY supports. They are very bad, but they're cheap and work fine; they will be replaced with dedicated components by my design. I'm just waiting for some salaries to come in order to stabilize the budget... 😅 At the frontend, the forks have been serviced, then I put titanium bolts for the front subframe (that's in steel; I'm going to build a new one in aluminium) and a forkbrace by Dr. Ergal design. The plate in the picture is just a prototype to test the size; the final one is still on the way New grips on the handlebars, ergal screws everywhere and that's it. The bike is simple and essential, so no need for further operations; I just cut out the locking pins to spread out the bars By following my purpose, I searched for any non stressed screw to be replaced with ergal units. And I mean EVERY screw... I don't have all the pictures, but those are the screws I removed and replaced with ergal All the remaining bolts are structural, so I could replace them with titanium, just in case. Maybe in future... In conclusion (so far 😁) I reinstalled the mirrors used on the VFR, with led indicators: And here it is! Being a projectbike, the modification will NEVER end 😁 The next steps are: Lightened pinion cover Li-Ion Battery Rear and front subframe in aluminium Muffler brackets Lighter brake rotors Adjustable ignition phonic wheel Lighter wheels (but I'm afraid that this item would cost me a divorce 🙄😆) Keep tuned! For those who are wondering if I forgot the lower cowl, well no: I simply removed it because I like the most this way. You remember? Simplicity... 😉