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A PC3 will net you circa 10-12HP over stock so go from 95-105-107RWHP with everything else stock. The PC5/6 are a huge waste of money as they don't bring anything to the party with our older engine electronics. I'm not sure if PC do a fuelly module for the VFR, I have one on my X300, it just does fuel adjustments & is half the price of a PC5/6 !

The Pressure cap increases the boiling point, the anti-freeze contribution is minimal. I use a 1.6bar cap which raises the boiling point further. Anti-freeze (AF) does basically one thing & that is what it's called. The higher the ratio of AF to distilled water, the less cooling you get & the more freeze protection you get. In the UK we rarely get less than -5c in the south & never less than -1 in my garage & I don't ride my VFR in the winter, so I don't need -37c protection. I'd probably need to drink it if UK temps got that low, as our electric & gas distribution would probably have failed ☹️

H/L switch. Do you mean Hi / Lo beam? It is on the left. On the right there is a triple pole slide switch: Off - position light (small bulb in the middle of headlight) - On (both H4 bulbs). The block you are writing about, is it a 4P Black connector between batery ang R/R?

Why has it got a H/L switch on right bar ? That is normally on the left bar, did you say right in error ? Do you mean the lights Off/side/dip selector switch ? As you state all grounds feed back to the rear left connectors block in the harness near the RR. Mine did many weird things & when I checked the block having peeled it out of the loom wrap tape it all looked good. But when I removed the crimp connectors from the block approx 50% of the wires were furred up with green copper oxidation in the crimps. So I cut the all out & cleaned the individual strands, then bulk soldered them & the weird electrical issues went away. YMMV

After R/R problem (solved) I have got another one on my VFR800 (1998, German spec.). It has HL switch on the right handlebar. To make long story short, when I switch on headlights, turn signals do not work, when I switch off the headlights turn signals work. If HLs are on: - right side H4 is dimmed (kinda neon lamp), - left side H4 is on full, - left TS does not light at all, no sound from TS relay - right TS, no light, TS relay makes bzzz. Changed TS relay - no change. Star ground clean. I measured resistances (with no bulbs connected): left HL / right HL - blue 0.1 ohm, green 6.1 ohm, Wh/Bu 0.2 ohm. Day before harness fiddling it was 0.8 to 1.3 ohm for Gr/Gr difference. HL relay Gr-Bu (coil) 104 ohm ... relays seems to work properly. The same for Hi beam, and TS relay. Gr/Gr HL-TS on the same side 0.1 ohm. Made more measurements, but those seems to be weird. I can make other, if needed. My bet is on the bad grounding. My problem is that I do not know, how to repair it, because the all "greens" goes to main harness. But maybe I am wrong and you have met this kind of problem before ..... Thing could be more intricate than it seems. So your help will be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Tom

The clock has a very high drain for what it is. But normally takes 3 month or more to drain a standard lead battery. I disconnect the battery & bring it in to the warmth during the winter after giving it a full charge off the bike. I use LifePo4 they don't like being flattened ! You can add a multi meter inline into one of the battery feeds, see how much juice is being drawn with the ignition off. Then pull fuses to see which kills the drain. Then look at whatever that fuse supplies. Happy hunting

Installed a brand new battery, fires up, volt meter I installed shows 13.1 while at idle. Let the bike sit for 2 weeks and battery went completely dead - would not even come back to life when hooked up to the trickle charger. Noticed battery was low during the winter when not riding for a few days so I put it on the charger thinking it was the cold that was giving it a hard time but it seems like something is slowly zapping it and if it sits too long it kills the bat. Can someone point me in the right direction for a troubleshooting guide?

I have the same issue. Did you try the above? Did it resolve the issue?

Oh, don't I know it! 😉

My money's on a gummed up bar switch. Factory grease & 20 + yrs of use = gummed up switch gear. Had a similar issue on my 99, sticky/sluggish flasher switch, pulled it apart, full of sticky crap, deep clean/polished all contacts, light smear of silicone gun grease, like brand new, still working mint for last 5yrs. Went back in during winter lay up, gutted rest of switch gear, deep clean/lube, all working as new. Personally I don't rate contact cleaner as anything special, it's only a glorified over priced mild de-greaser, but it's kinder to plastics than brake cleaner, so useful to wash plastic parts when cleaned, it'll do little to nothing just spraying it into a switch. Switches need servicing at some point. I use scotchbrite pads on electrical contacts, switches like horn & starter draw a lot of current & use a heavier set of contact points, these need filing to clean em, I have a set of super fine diamond files for this job, but a fine needle file or some emery cloth wrapped around a lolly sticky. It can be a fiddly & time consuming process, but worth the effort. Horn switch is a real biatch to remove & install from the main switch housing, clean in situ is my advice. Harness to chassis grounds are a weak point too, well worth cleaning em all up with some emery cloth & treat em to some kind of anti-oxidant solution. 👍

This right here: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant/Antifreeze 5 Litres (Pre Mixed) (08CLAG026L2)

Is the option connector under the seat or near the headlight? I can look for the wire colors, but I wouldn't mind a little help with the general area or how deep I'll be digging. Thanks!

The 4 times I have cleaned it I've probably used 4 different bottles of cleaner. Mostly whatever Electrical Contact cleaner spray the local Auto parts store has. I get in there with a tight, pointy cotton swab (the kind that doesn't fray easily) and get in all the little spots. The last time I even got a tiny metal pick and ensured the 3 circular contacts were clear of any residue. Every post I have read about it always talks about opening up the switch and cleaning it, which granted is sound advice, but it doesn't solve the problem. There must be something else going on. Especially since on all of these situations, the Right Signal is worse than the Left. Yes on my bike I do have running lights. When you select the signal the corresponding light goes out, and stays out until the signal begins to flash.

Yesterday evening I attempted to install the new muffler brackets. It was a trial, I knew it was, but in my mind I've been hoping it could work: the brackets are 3D printed in PA12 enhanced with carbonfibre In theory, the idea is brilliant: components light (VERY light) and resistant. And they are very nice, indeed: Unfortunately, they're not strong enough, and prone to bending: I gotta find a solution, or I'll be obliged to come back to old good aluminum 🤔 Failure is the path to success 😁

From an electrical perspective, power flows from the battery to fuse and then through the flasher relay to the switch, and then separates to the left or right sides. I think the only thing that can cause a delay is the switch, and the likeliest cause is old, stiff grease holding the contact points apart. That is also why regular use and cold weather have an impact on the delay you are seeing. The grey wire is power in, orange or light blue is L and R out. You may also have running lights which should have constant power (not through the flasher relay) on the Brown/Blue wire, and out on the Light Blue/White and Orange/White wires. When you use the turn signal, the side lights get cut out. When you cleaned the contacts did you use a contact cleaner or a spray like Deoxit (my fave)?

I've been chasing this issue for years. Pressing the turn signal switch to activate the signals and there will be a delay before the actual light starts flashing. Just like all of the many many other posts about it, the right side is more effected than the left side, and it seems to be temperature related as it doesn't happen on warm days. It also goes away with regular use. (So if you ride everyday you may not have this problem) Has anyone found an actual solution to this besides opening the switch and cleaning the connections? Because I have done it like 4 times already and it only helps for like a day before they start acting up again. Link to the last thread about it:

Well-played Mike. I could do with that diagonal support "member".

homeboy?

Put the bolt in a drill and spin it against a scotchbrite pad + polishing compound. Chaos Causes demonstrates this over on YouTube. (the video should start at the 7:00 minute mark) A bench grinder and polishing mop would be the easiest way, but they might come out shiny polishing by hand.

Great stories never start with " After I had that second wine Spritzer" 😁 Definitely will be keeping an eye on your progress.

i know, i was just explaining to homeboy what "50 state version" meant, since he thought they didn't exist

Thanks Skids, feel free to give me more specific info on the reflash and suspension upgrades. Right now I have the more pressing issues of mostly seized front brakes, a leaking fork seal and an electrical gremlin; I had started the bike once, but when I tried to repeat that I got an electrical pop and deadness so need to locate the cause. Not asking for any dick pics, but do you have any photos of the left side of your bike with its clothes removed, especially the area around the front left of the engine?

That sucker looks rough! You're a beast to take it on.

Not a question of legality, but power production.