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Cool Idea! I'm personally not sold on steering dampeners just yet, but more power to ya! If you figure this out it would be valuable to the forums for sure!

No, but seriously, on occasion my 5th gen's motor will stop running for a very short interval. With one exception, there's no one factor that is consistent. It'll stutter in any gear, at any speed or RPM level. It doesn't matter whether or not the engine is up to temp. It *has* happened as I've been slowing down and coming to a stop, but it has never happened when I start the bike and it's idling or if I'm at a stop and idling. It doesn't matter if the road is smooth or rough, although it's a lot more taxing on rough roads. Sometimes it'll only hiccup once. Other times it'll feel like the bike is shuddering. It gets exciting when it happens as I'm going around a corner or turning at low speed. The reason I believe it to be an electronics problem, as opposed to fuel is that all 4 cylinders drop out simultaneously. If it was an injector or dirty gas, I would expect it to run rough instead of dropping out completely It's also been occurring long enough that it's happened with many different tanks of gas. I use ethanol-free 87, which I get from 2 different stations that are near to me. There are other stations on the island that carry ethanol-free gas, but like I said, I don't think the issue is fuel. There's no other electrical issue that occurs, like dimming lights or the clock resetting, so it's not a major grounding issue. The injectors share a ground, though, along with the intake duct control solenoid valve, which I'm pretty sure I've disconnected. I've even swapped out the ECM. Any cogent thoughts are welcome.

Hi Matey. Electrical gremlins are a real pain sometimes. What's Batt voltage fully charged/ not connected? should be 12.8V, any less & battery's either a duff unit or charger's shagged, test an hr after charging, batt needs to be cool. What's Batt voltage connected? What's Batt voltage tested at with meter Negative on right side chassis ground point & meter Positive on Batt Positive? What Batt voltage, tested with meter Positive on starter side of starter relay & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on starter body? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on engine near starter ground? All quick/easy but vital tests that will highlight any gremlins in an ageing loom. How are you testing the Stators output voltage? How have you wired Stator & R&R up? It's highly likely you have some corrosion in chassis ground somewhere, have you checked the orange multi-ground block taped into the loom just forward of the R&R? Warm bike up first, Test charge voltage at battery @ idle & @5,000rpm, ensure lights are on main beam, system needs a load for correct testing, what voltages are you seeing? Do same charge output test with meter ground lead on right side chassis ground & Batt positive, follow main earth lead from battery, it should go direct to starter motor body, remove starter & clean to bare metal where starter & motor touch, clean ground cable (both ends) while ground cable is off starter & battery, Ohms test cable, any high resistance, cable is done & needs replacing, buy a length to 8AWG multi-stand copper earth lead, don't waste money on that chinese tinned wire crap on sale thru eBay, buy proper copper cabling, use new crimp on connectors if you can source the angled type that's fitted or re-use old ones if they've not gone brittle, but they need to be cleaned up like new. Add some of this anti corrosion paste to your toolbox, it'll 100% stop new copper cable corroding inside the crimps, you can use it inside any crimps on copper multi-strand, just paint it into copper wire with an old toothbrush & crush fit crimps, if you plan to solder em as well as crimp, don't use anything other than acid flux or it won't solder, you'll need a blow torch, keep all cable below torch & heat the crimp connector only, solder will wick the crimp, no solder iron will be hot enough. https://www.heamar.co.uk/ideal-30-024-1-2oz-tube-of-noaloxr-anti-oxidant-compound.html? Let us know how you get on?

Haha, I know. But my other bikes weigh like half of what the VFR does. And I'm a gadget guy, so I have to do it. Even if it's not needed, I want to have the ability to pop it on there.

My VFR is an '09 Vtec but is similar enough that my install solutions may help you. I chose a set of ST1300 cables that are about 4"/100mm longer. Rerouting the clutch & brake hoses behind the fork tube gave plenty of slack. I was able to move the brake reservoir intact, but there wasn't quite enough space for the clutch. Here are the details: Yet Another Lil Handlebar install- 6th gen

What size tyres are fitted? 5th Gens on stock suspension with forks thru yokes at stock height are a bit of a haul to get onto centre stand, if bikes on a stock rear shock & spring, adding a 5mm spacer on top under frame rail makes it way easier to centre stand it & it'll turn in better too. Do some basic checks to confirm stock or aftermarket parts. Stock shock is 325mm measured at bolt centres. It's possible you have aftermarket parts fitted, longer lower dog bone link or triangle plates that aren't OEM, you may even have a shorter aftermarket shock fitted. To centre stand the bike, just run rear wheel over a piece of wood 20mm or so, it'll be easier, but there's a bit of a knack to it, once you find it, it's easy.

Thanks Gaz - great info and idea for mocking up with cheap hose - I've actually got a 2m length of fuel hose (temu😅) that'll work fine for this. The ABM kit states OEM lines will work with reroute- if I can avoid it I will. The braided kit presumably comes with the correct angle banjos for each particular line - probably best to fire them an email before pulling the trigger (and enquire if they use swivel banjos where appropriate...) You'd bloody hope so as it costs €440 including the clutch line! Sorry to hear the conversion has gone to plan just yet, hopefully you'll get it sorted! I feel where you're coming from - I haven't put many miles on mine yet (80 or so miles over various A & b roads) but long term, as a daily something needs to be sorted. Bar conversion will cure a lot of it the issue I have with the position - ideally pegs lowered an inch / inch and a half ,may be a combo of adding to the seat a little along with peg blocks but will see how the bar conversion works first. Would hate to have to sell it, great looks,awesome engine and sound,nice stable handling & suspension (probably the slowest steering bike I've owned so far but once it's turned in it tracks a given line very nicely) butbatbthe same time really don't want to be throwing too much money at it either 😅 Just gathering up the bits atm then find time to get into it!

Great if you want to do it. But, I wonder if this is the first case of a VFRD member seeking additional unnecessary weight on the VFR. 😂 Most of us like to trim it off!

Came in the mail today For the Transalp cosmetic upgrade next winter

Hi Sean. I've found a cheap easy / accurate way to find correct aftermarket hose length by using some cheap small bore PVC hose from a DIY store or a local motorists discount store screen washer pipe. Use PVC hose as a mock up hose from master to calipers/clutch slave etc, route as per your chosen final assembly, check first with your chosen braided pipe supplier how they measure the new hoses. ie) Hel might not measure up the same as Goodridge, Wemoto do quality hose with crimped ferrules, these can be tweaked into your required final alignment if need be. Like most VFR's I'm currently on OEM clip-ons, plus MOTO-CNC 20mm bar risers which are a crap design, no wonder they went bust, even this bar position still gives me severe neck/back ache. On my bench I've mocked up a spare 5th Gen top yoke drilled for FZS1000 bar mounts & Renthals, I'll trial fit it asap when I've time free. Good luck with your bar install.

Appreciate the reply, as I mentioned- I intend to replace all the lines due to age (they look fine but 27 year old lines...) but the main question is has anyone any experience/ suggestions for extension lengths for these lines for this type of conversion? The Hurricane throttle and choke lines are 150mm & 170mm longer - I'm not sure if a similar extension length is required for brake and clutch line? Pricey kit and if ordered with custom lengths, non returnable so don't want to get it wrong!

I used GT variant on my 6th gen for three years. I often ride two up with luggage. For camping trips my bike is overloaded, spec says 200kg max but we're probably 230kg together with the luggage. Stiffer spring and max preload helps keep the balance of the bike in check. With that amount of weight I'd like to be on the safer side as when I apply the throttle in 2nd gear the front lifts easily which means there's some 480kg on the rear wheel. Same for long uphils at speed. The rear tire probably begs for mercy when riding 100km/h on long uphill sections. Less flex from the stiffer sidewall means less heat which means less chance of failure. I just had Dunlop Roadsmart 4 GT delivered. Haven't had them mounted yet. Interestingly, Dunlop's website recommends GT variant for the VFR. Their approach is different, they state that the GT variant has a profile which makes heavy bikes steer quicker, while the SP variant has a profile which offers better stability at high speed.

Ok, I have a Scott's steering damper for my CRF450RL, and even though I know the Gen 8 VFR doesnt need it, I figured why not? So I ordered the mount kit for the Gen 6(they didnt make one for the 8), and upon opening the box, I could immediately tell that the steering tube nut for the mount is too short. Challenge accepted. So the question is whether or not an extension exists. OR.... should I have a machine shop make a nut with an extended base? Even better if someone already knows of an available solution. Pics for reference:

Your post is a little vague but I think your question is whether you will need to bleed the clutch and brake lines when you fit the longer hoses? If so, the answer is absolutely. The good(?) news is that you won't be opening any part of the linked brakes so need not go through the full bleeding sequence involving the secondary master and the PCV, so only need to worry about the uppermost bleed screws.

I'm going non-LED too.

Thanks. Picked it up and it felt way better than the ancient tyres that came off. noted for next time 😀

Hi folks, Have the above kit on the way from Germany (bar that comes with it is very similar dimemsions to the Hurricane police kit bar) Also have the Hurricane extended throttle cables & choke cable coming from Webike. My question is : as I've to crack the brake & clutch systems open to fit this kit,these will need bleeding(🫠) As the bike is 27 years old ,it also makes sense to replace the lines so I'll be ordering braided lines - has anyone got recommendations for the additional lengths to add to the lines while I'm ordering? (The kit states that Oem lines can be used with reroute but it costs very little for the additional length so if I can avoid that for the sake of €20 I will!) Full set of lines atm with a discount (till 06/06/25) is working out @ €440 shipped from probrake.de including additional length and choice of colour sleeve. Attached is dimensions of the bar if this helps anyone who's done a similar conversion and used extended lines steer me in the right direction! Thanks in advance, Sean.

You might have a damaged/faulty side stand switch.

Had the same issue with the Wax Idle unit bracket, this shows how much I took off for the AS3 hoses:

Ah! Copy that!

I've ran both GT and standard on my FJR1300 and couldn't feel any difference except when mounting and removing the tyres. Same with my FZ1 Fazer. Ride more, worry less 😁

The GT will work fine but next time get the regular Michelin Road, whatever number they're up to by then. The GT is made for heavier bikes than your 5th gen and therefore has a stiffer carcass and less flexible sidewalls. I'm going to guess that it will be a stiffer ride than optimum and perhaps a bit heavier steering. I just put a pair of Road 6's on my 2017 Multistrada, and have been running Roads on that bike since I bought it. Very happy with them, fantastic wet weather performance, good side grip, neutral but not overly quick steering. And each model seems to last a few more miles than the last. The MS is ~520lbs, not too different than a 5th gen. I also ran Roads for seven years on my 7th gen, which is a solid 600lbs, and never felt the need for the GT.

Sorry I wasn’t clear. I did order the GT and no I don’t regularly have a pillion.

You haven't made a mistake. The VFR doesn't need the GT version. I'm assuming you don't regularly take a rhino as a pillion.