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daved

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About daved

  • Rank
    Club Racer

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  • Location
    Herts, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi

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  1. I also found that it was easier to attach the AS3 hoses at the wax unit first and then the other ends(thermostat and engine take off) as the throttle bodies were installed as the new clips are bigger than the originals
  2. I found I had to replace these hoses recently(one was leaking), they are available on the AS3 website AS3 website, if you search for part numbers: 18070 - black 18071 - red 18072 - blue The full hose kits are at: AS3 VFR800Fi hose kits One hose was still too long, but easy enough to cut to size. As above, the wax unit bracket needed modifying to give a bigger opening (the sliver one on top shows where metal was removed)
  3. Glad you found it, I haven't heard of any companies that refurb the throttle bodies in the UK There are a number of them on ebay, something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-Honda-VFR-800-F-Throttle-Bodies/172949010675?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 may be a simpler/quicker option, maybe just ask for some good photos of the throttle disks?
  4. I've had this happen a couple of times on my FiY, after changing the coolant. The hot coolant needs to get to the wax unit for it to work, if there is an air lock, it won't. I've cleared mine by a combination of: Squeezing the rad hoses to 'burp' the system Letting the system cool, checking and topping up the coolant at the rad cap and re-starting Leaning the bike as far left as possible when it's running Reving to 6-7k repeatedly Eventually the coolant has reached the wax unit and the revs have dropped back to normal tick over. Hope this works for you.
  5. Found a small amount of play in the rear wheel bearings of my VFR800Fiy recently. Bought a 46mm socket and readied myself to battle with the stub axle nut, which turned out not to be tight at all, it was still staked but at maybe 50Nm not the spec’ed 201Nm, I tightened it to about 70Nm and the play went away, but since I had already bought the bearing kit and the originals have done 80K miles, I went ahead and disassembled the hub and put the new bearings in. The axle looks OK, apart from one area (where the double ball bearings sit) which looks like one of the bearings has been spinning (very shiny) on the axle, I can’t measure any wear on the axle. There is no heat discolouration in the grease in the bearing or in the internal bearing race. I’m planning to re-use the axle, since the bearings aren’t a press fit on the axle and I expect that when I torque the nut to the correct tightness it will hold the inner races stationary relative to the axle rotation. Anything else I should be considering?
  6. +1 for the switch. When I had the same symptoms it turned out to be the switch that needed a strip down and clean - I discovered this after removing the front fairing to check the relay 😞
  7. That's the tricky part, what exactly does a 'light sliding fit' feel like when the feeler gauge has to be bent to get it into the gap on some valves, but can go in straight on others?
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