ariesblade

Glad to! Hope it helps

Not to say you are wrong @Terry but the manual is just as old as the bike 😉 Silicone Grease is fine, but there are better products out there nowadays. Just like how we dont tend to use copper grease anymore either. Ceramic grease would be a very good alternative. and as for the hard to reach places @Mrbiggabit try applying some on a toothpick or a q-tip. Worked for me 🙂 if you use 2 toothpicks, you can use one to lift the rubber boot and the other to apply the grease 🙂 Goodluck!

@Mrbiggabit Sadly no, There is no way to pull it off without disconnecting the hose. I know its frustrating I would say to try and clean it best you can by gently lifting the boot as you already do. Can i ask why you are using silicone spray/lube? That is not the right lubricant for the sliders, unless you are willing to relube after every ride?

Note: there are more differences between the clutch packs. I have spent months of my time finding the information as it is very poorly documented (local honda dealer also didnt know the difference) Plates: Friction plates for 98-99 have an extra (larger i.d. plate) that stands out from the rest Do note that the plate mentioned above is the only item differing in partnumber. the rest of the friction and steel are identical, just the quantity is different. Judder spring + washer at the end of the clutchpack (after you pull all the plates out) Springs (the 00-01 has heavier clutch springs) grabby/unpredictable clutch can have some causes, I would go in this order to do the easily accessible stuff first: inspection + rebuild Slave cylinder: mine looked horrrible when i pulled it, replaced the piston, seals, and fluids Inspection of clutchpack: grabbyness can be caused by burrs on the inner or outer clutch basket, these can be lightly filed smooth or replaced, depending on what you are comfortable with

Definitely not gonna touch that set with a 10 foot pole. Obvious signs of fire damage along with the small bits of rust, Nope for me. Unfortunately it isnt just bent but its kinked, so no way of fully straightening it. Sad thing is I was in for a front suspension service and upgrade... Working on getting new inner tubes but cant find anything in stock, even the honda dealer cant order them anymore....

Honestly I would have to disagree with the 5th gen being overgeared. Makes for a lovely relaxed cruise at highway speeds. From the limited reading material there *is* a difference in R/R from the 98-99 and the 00-01 5th gen. It is less likely to melt your connectors. However it wouldnt be a simple swapover because the connectors are different. Better off solving the issue as described in one of the many posts. Enjoy your 5th gen. I know I do. Although i did get the sad news today that my front forks have a kink in them. So didnt end up servicing the forks, desperately looking for new ones

Installed the Givi Wingrack for an upcoming camping trip. Took a lot of muscle to get this to fit, bolts and washer combos, either the rear subframe is crooked or the rack is, because the gap between the rack and fairing on the left-hand side was non existent and rubbing on the paint. Got a new key cut so i can remove the rear seat with the rack installed. Finally went the bike with some plastic and metal restorer (do it once a year now and it makes a huge difference, oil-based but leaves absolutely no residue) Love this product and can highly recommend Owatrol Polytrol Before After

@Ughandi Thats what creditcards (with purchase insurance) are for 😄 There are much more affordable 5th gen plastic options Nah but jokes aside, I have alot of experience on chinese sites like Aliexpress. Almost all Aliexpress sales are well protected, you can open disputes if the parts dont fit or are not as advertised and then get your money back. Some sellers are hesitant to give money back but then someone from the platform reviews the case and decides from there if you cant come to an agreement. The sketchier stuff i either use my creditcard's 'insurance' or Paypal.

Any chance you have found a speedo healer somewhere while building the bike up? most likely to be placed under the fairings or under the seat. When putting back the speedsensor did you check that the end of the speedsensor was seated properly in the sprocket nut?

Very curious about this thread. What exactly is the benefit of swapping out the injectors. Say id swap em for the 929 injectors. what is the difference?

Okay thats interesting, Last summer, riding through the alps i didnt notice much difference in idle speed and power delivery. We're talking elevation changes from 200 meters to +1500-2200m (650ft - 6500ft in freedom units ). granted i wasnt pushing hard (unknown roads and not wanting to spoil a fan.fucking.tastic vacation) But I can get the use-case for the lever. Good to know. I luckily havent had to touch the wax unit. Lets pray to the Viffer gods i dont have to 😉

What are those advantages? Could you explain that to me? I own a 2000, with the wax idler and have only once had the engine die on me after starting (when still cold and it was around 0 degrees C outside). I think that my startervalve sync has helped with preventing this from happening more often. based on logic, not facts 😛

My 2 cents on screens: I currently use an MRA adjustable Touring screen in light smoke. Its a little creaky and old (hinges are a little weak, above a certain speed, idk like 160 kmph?, it slams to the lowest setting) but it really does the job, around 6 positions, lowest is used in summer, im a hot head and then the wind just about reaches my face, Position 3 (middle position) for standard use, gives me the best compromise of taking the pressure off my head and little to no turbulence (noise). Position 6 works most effectively under 80kmph if you want as little wind as possible, go above that the screen does tend to buffet, slam closed sooner, but also just generate more noise. (im 178cm tall if that helps?) Personally, I love the MRA, gives me the flexibility when i need it, and at the lowest point looks way less dorky than some other touring screens (yes lol thats important to me) Some information in general about screens: The aerodynamics of windscreens on bikes are complicated, so they often have complicated answers and/or compromises. What do you want the screen for? less pressure on your chest or helmet? less noise? Ask yourself that first as they yield different solutions E.g. Do you want quiet? the solution is not simply mounting a higher screen. The reason you 'hear' air is turbulence, air being disturbed is what causes the windnoise you hear. So your best solution would be 'smoothen the airflow around your helmet' If you want a really nerdy and in depth response on what screens are best, let me know, otherwise this post would be unnecessarily long XD

Couldnt help myself. Started wandering through the swiss photo album...