Leaderboard

I have changed tires for quite a few riders on this forum. IF you are coming this way to slay the dragon, I am not far from there, 20.00 a wheel and one hour of downtime. You can have your favorite choice of tires shipped here. If you order from https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ Tires are usually delivered to my address next day. Check me out: http://www.ridewnc.net/services.html

Mate, I don't think your question really has much relavance, as mechanics and dealerships are going to vary enormously all over the world. BUT hopefully all the info supplied in this thread (ignoring some of the egotistical stuff) from some very experienced people will go a long way to help you make an informed decision whichever way you go. YMMV. Cheers.

Guys. The VTec valves are not tricky to do, it is just time consuming. The special part is a little 4/5mm diameter stopper that holds the valve actuator across to allow the valve and bucket to contact each other. I've done it many times and it is: (this is per bank. EG: Front or rear. Don't do both at the same time) 1. Set up the cam timing and pull the cams 2. Lift the VTec buckets and install the "stoppers" 3. Assemble it all back together and do the cam timing. 4. Measure and record all the clearances. 5. Work out which are out of tolerance. 6. Set up the cam timing and pull the cams 7. Pull the out of tolerance shims and replace with correct ones 8. Assemble it all back together and do the cam timing 9. Measure and compare the clearances 10. Readjust ones still not correct by repeating steps 6 thru 9 11. Once all is OK, set cam timing again and pull cams 12. Remove stoppers from all VTec buckets 13. Reassemble cams and do timing. 14. Move to next bank. As you can see it is time consuming as even if they are all in tolerance you still have to pull the cams twice to fit and remove the stoppers. My 2.5 cents woorth. Phil

Problem with brushed staters is they have nowhere for the brush wear residue/dust to go. So the brushes start to stick which increases arcing that increases wear. If you ever need to replace a set of brushes & they are NLA then just go to a car parts place & buy a set. They are all bigger than bike ones, then cut them to shape to fit your starter motor ! Give it a full clean & degrease & all good to go like new again.

Adding "The Drill" link. Hey look, I can thank myself... 🤣

Chances are I pick one up over the weekend. Am amazed/impressed that it worked for so long despite being well past its "best before date"...

"lunch ride" 

Managed to get the laser cut piece mounted and I am very pleased with the fitment, the VFR logo makes it stand out very well (thank you VFRpwr for that suggestion) I'm going to give the manufacture the go-ahead and get the remaining parts made! If there is anyone else that is interested in these let me know! - $19.50 CAD + Shipping Installation Instructions.pdf

Thanks for the welcome and the RR tip Duc2V4! Alas, I traded the SP towards the Tiger XC and regret that move to this day. It had 41mm Keihin flat-sides and a 944 kit.

I recall finding this a while back. The guy even gives the parts you’ll need. http://members.home.nl/jfknippels/valve_overview.html

I like it better than the supercharged 6th Gen.

I use Snap-On or Derek Weaver computer balancer. My changers are a Coats 220 or Derek Weaver which is the same model as the Coats Base Line. I let the owner watch. It is hard to scratch a wheel with a decent machine, but it does happen. Using sh1tty tools or tire irons can destroy the finish worse than a machine. My automatic machine puts all the force on the tire. It never prys against the wheel. When I upped my price to twenty dollars per wheeel, one of my neighbors got all pissed at me and bought a Harbor Freight changer... After he f--Ked up his wheels, he is now coming back to me. 20.00 is more than reasonable to have someone with skill, experience and the proper tools work on your bike. Here the average tire change is 50.00 to 80.00 per wheel. No one has better tools than I do. I am not even a shop or business. Just a rider doing tires by word of mouth.

Road King?? Cool! I expect we'll see the sparks a flyin!

Just received an email from Competition Accessories showing $40 Dunlop rebates.

Good friends of mine raised his daughter in a manner that would give over 99% of parents massive coronaries. I'm not even a parent and I certainly raised an eyebrow. Well, the kid turned out to be very well-adjusted and very successful at everything she tries. And, a lot more aware of the world around her, with ten times the critical thinking skills of anyone else I know except for her parents. So was their parenting "good" or "bad"? I guess what makes viewpoints like these intriguing is that "good" and "bad" are sometimes rather arbitrary terms, defined perhaps by norms that folks just cheerfully march to. Maybe it's too much work to challenge prevailing ideas. Oh, and for what it's worth, last year I had my 8th gen at the dealer for the full maintenance routine. Valve check was part of that. Bike comes out, I get the bill, it's surprisingly small. Hmmm. No valve check. I inquire. Old-skool wrench comes out. I should mention he's a well-respected fellow around here who also races on weekends, and it's usually friends of the shop who get this guy out of the other six to have their bike worked on. I ask him about the valve check. He says the first check is never necessary on these motors but he did check them... using the ol' screwdriver stethoscope trick. Your Mileage May Vary

Agree, but that would be pretty unlucky as the OP states he's fitted a new Stator!

Forums in general seem to get a lot less traffic these days. Everyone just uses Facebook for everything. Personally, I find Facebook much too invasive for my tastes.

Hi Luvmyvfr, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Sorted!

Just guessing...Sounds like a bad stator leg while hot. Search for "the drill" charging system test and run while hot.

Yeah, wasn’t my fault. Bought it like that. All good now!

Note that the 6 Gen kit also applies to the 8 Gen. Sfdownhill and I have been talking to AS3 trying to get them to separate their kits so that the 6 Gen can get a complete set. The short hose that connects the rad cap filler tube to the radiator is not in the kit but is in the 5 Gen kit. On the 8 Gen, the radiator cap goes onto the radiator directly, so we assume this is why it’s missing in the 6/8 Gen kit and that you get the two extra hoses. As for the 5 Gen kit we have provided them with the one hose that connects to the wax unit and one that Honda does not sell anymore and to either make this part of the 5 Gen kit or sell it in kits for 00-01 and leave it out for 98-99. Good news for 00-01 owners is the hose is being made and should be available soon.

Yuk, it sure is! Luckily my 5 year old bike will only ever see 1 year old brake and clutch fluid.

Yuck R Us....

Hey there,Blargh, so I am looking for a good home for my 98 VFR 800. For me, it is one of the most versatile motorcycles I've ridden and I will be sad to see it go. I've ridden it across country, commuted to work, and most recently learned a ton on the track with STT! Though I need to make room in the garage and get some $ for more track days!Asking: $2,250, I can bring it to Autobahn and Blackhawk tracks in July. If you're like me, you immediately go look up these estimates of value. Kelly Blue Book Value ($2,500), NadaGuide Value ($2,310) Keep in mind these don't include upgrades, or the extras with this bike.INFO AND NUGGETS: 27,619 Miles 1998 Honda VFR 800 Braided Brake Lines, Micron Exhaust, Power Commander, Pitbull single swing arm stand (shown in photos holding up bike) Givi Luggage box + mount, Original street stuff: mirrors, headlamps, center stand, turn-signals and rear tail light Clean Title Fancy plastic zip-ties to hold some of the plastics. Which are gold to track-day rides, but if this offends, suspect new hardware could be an easy fix. While making it track ready I did cut off the license plate holder on the underlying rear fender. (doh!) I thought It take seconds off my lap times in the novice group... ‍🤓 Sadly it didn't, but it does look cooler. Just may be harder to affix a license plate, but surely it could be done. STUFF I'VE DONE WITHIN LAST YEAR 2x Oil Changes, New front brake pads, New rectifier/regular and stator. Photo gallery: Has it ever been down? While riding.. no, while parked yes. I was a tired idiot at the end of a track day, didn't put the bike fully back on the side stand correctly. it tipped over and created the damage shown in the photos. Could you take the stickers off? Yes, happy to take off any stickers. For sure will take off 98, others by request.Can it be made street legal again? Yes! I've kept all the parts I've taken off, sans the license plate holder mentioned above. It will take some work, though it can be done with some elbow grease and patience. Looking for more photos, FAQ and images. I created a custom info page just for it on my website. https://98vfr800.mavenseed.com/p/1998-honda-vfr-800-for-sale Contact Wes Burke, wes@cgcookie.com or PM here.

thank you very much!

Here you go. Be gentle with the inner visor, it's easy to snap the tabs, and be aware it's not just the black section, the red (on my bike anyway) bits on each side are part of the same piece.

My opinion is that the VFR is actually useless under 5000rpm, and mine is very rarely under that even in traffic. Its why you have a gear box. Its a 4 cylinder with a 11750rpm red line and needs to be revel like one.

The common way stators fail is a short to ground, so you need to have your Multimeter on the highest Ohms range, place one lead on any of the 3 output wires and the other to the frame of the bike (a solid ground point OR the Negative of your battery), make sure your fingers are NOT touching the tips of the meter probes. You should see infinite resistance i.e. no continuity to ground, if you do see any resistance then the Stator is no good. Haven't seen a situation where any of the phase windings go open or short circuit, but that is always on the cards!. The 0.5ohms you're saying over the factory spec may well be just the meter lead resistance. You need to short your meter leads together read the very low value and subtract that from your reading, to get the true Ohms reading of the output wire phases.

Taking off the tank is mostly about not making an accidental air fuel bomb out of it. A fire blanket around everything else should prevent an accidental fire. There should be no spatter etc, just the radiant heat from the spark and the work. Reg/rec and engine management unit may both be susceptable to HF AC used when TIGing Al. So disconnect them. A competant operator should be able to do a visually acceptable repair. Aluminium reinforced epoxy may do the job just as well without all the heat and fuss. Devcon is a good product for this. Clean and key the surfaces well before use.

Thanks for the replies. I may well have a look at having it repaired. My brother is a welder, first on nuke subs, then nuke plants, now jet engine parts. If I take the collector off and cover it in ice cold beer, it may attract his attention. My job got extended by a week so I'm at the airport, not headed to Maine, but south to Lauderdale..............well, guess it pays better than riding my motorcycle.

Oooofff, what's with the white on black text? I have no idea what you wrote because it's too painful to look at!

Tires came in today, Michelin pilot power 2C. Very easy to mount. The first bead goes on easy by hand, then (just in case it gave me trouble) I zip tied the tire to the rim and pulled it tight into the rim well and spooned it on. It really couldn't have bean easier. For me it's not about saving money. I just want to know it was done right. I had a really bad experience at a dealership years ago and I just have a hard time turning my bike over to someone that's in a hurry to get the job done. I use a torque wrench on every bolt, carefully remove the old wheel weights and balance the wheels to my satisfaction. It rides smooth, and turn in seems good.

Good news, glad it was nothing serious.

It happened to me when driving when I was slowly passing an 18-wheeler in my car. With the windows down. That was LOUD! Never had the experience on my bike, and hope I never do. One little defensive driving/riding "trick" I use is if I see part of a tire carcass on the road, THEN THERE'S PROBABLY ANOTHER ONE further up the road. Sure enough, there usually is.

Thank God you are ok and it's just the collector box that got damaged, those roads are very dangerous when there is no hard shoulder as well, well done for keeping a cool head too.

Got the first prototype lasered today. Going to do one last test fit on my bike and then I'll get the rest of the order completed! Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

Some 33C+ today for a little SP get together...

No way I'm letting someone else wrench on my bike. No way I'm deviating from the maintenance schedules per Honda. I paid, in part, for that engineered maintenance schedule created by Honda. If I have to spend $$$ for a tool or tools that I don't have and will only use once, so be it. That's the price for peace of mind. I look at something like adjusting the valves as curriculum for a technical collage course (university of Hard Knocks, you know) and treat as such with research. I'm better afterwards on several accounts, including keeping my mind as fresh as possible for a 61 year old processor. The worst case scenario is that the valves, not a single one, needed adjustment, and I spent some money that I didn't need to spend, but what an education and experience! I guess that it comes down to pride of ownership and acceptance of a pleasant (to me) challenge. That is all. Semper Fi

A little rumble for ya, just down the street. 232CFB8F-7630-4083-9336-6D1A497946AA.MP4

Methinks that is a view of Sierra Buttes from Gold Lake Highway, near Sierra City, Cal. Some fantastic roads & scenery in that vicinity.