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@Captain 80s OK im going to try to remember to address everything you asked me. So the floats I took the 4 screws out of the bowl individually and sprayed with carb cleaner and compressed air and then put them back together. I had them upside down so I could do so without trying to mess with how the floats were already set (im not sure if that's stupid or works). I sprayed carb cleaner and air through the jets without taking them out because I dont know how to mess with them honestly and after that I soaked the carbs as well in carb cleaner for about 8 hours. Yes I got the boots set because it took me about an hour and a half and standing on them while grabbing the frame and pushing to seat them. 2 of them had cracks so I replaced them and I will have to try the wd40 thing tomorrow and report back to you.

Ok cool. Thanks for the response. Couple questions... Did you remove the pilot screws and ensure those passages were clean with carb clean and compressed air? If so, were you sure to account for the spring, tiny washer and tiny o-ring? Did you have the diaphragms out? If so, were they inspected for holes/tears? What was you procedure for re-installation? Did you check the float levels? More importantly did you change/adjust them? If so, what was your procedure for setting the float levels? Were all jets and carb passages ensured clear with carb clean and compressed air? Jets visually inspected for light thru them when done? Were the carb insulators (boots) inspected for cracks? Are you 100% sure the carbs have been fully seated? Without new insulators it can be pretty hard to get them re-seated properly. Have you sprayed WD-40 or Contact Cleaner around the carbs while it is idling to check for intake leaks?

@Captain 80s I'm a diesel Mechanic by trade and I'm very inexperienced when it comes to carbs. That being said I'm new to the carb game. I was very very cautious of what I took apart and as far as screws and things that are set i made sure to count the number of turns so I could put them back how they were. The carbs were pretty clean there wasn't much crap in them at all. I can't find much information on this bike honestly

The idle adjuster screw is accessible through the hole drilled in the right frame spar (the black dot in your signature picture) so you don't need to lift the tank to access that, just poke a philips head screw driver in, lower idle by unscrewing the screw a little. As you have a 2000 VFR I assue the bike has a wax unit for cold fast idle, not the manual "choke" lever on the left bar? Those can misbehave if the coolant is not regularly flushed and the linkages are lubed. Otherwise the idle speed is controlled by the starter valves. If you have any air leaks around the throttle boots or a damaged or disconnected vacuum hose, that can also lead to a high idle.

Not sure which bike to post a pic of 🤔😆

This is NOT a dis on you or your abilities, because I don't know what they are. I have just seen this SO MANY times over the years, I have to ask... What is your experience cleaning/rebuilding carbs in general, and specifically V4 carbs?. Did you follow a guide? Are you working with a Genuine Honda Service Manual? I have seen some really interesting interpretations of "completely cleaned the carbs". I would say 90% of similar situations you describe is that the carbs aren't actually clean and/or something was missed upon reassembly. I have seen pages of recommendations, ideas and hints when it was carbs that still had blocked passages, pinched diaphragms, misadjusted floats, etc, etc, etc... the whole time. It's almost always the carbs still. If we can establish the level of carb work that was done we can hopefully (mostly) eliminate that and move onto diagnosing what else might be wrong. -Mike

Highly subjective. Sargent is much softer than Corbin. A local upholstery guy may be your best bet. Angle of the surface makes a huge difference. I had one of my Sargents modified and it is so much beter!

@Captain 80s Have any opinions?

Thank you guys I will make sure to explore both of those things.

At my local airfield,been coming to this spot for 42 years,first off on an 81 Honda MT5

New(ish) cable and throttle tube arrived! Since I busted my foot at a mini moto race day yesterday, I'll have plenty of time in the garage to get these clip-ons installed! (Don't mind me hijacking my own thread... But I need this off my chest) Turns out you get what you pay for. My 5 year old $250 AS SMX-V2's did not protect my foot from a *vertical* crush on a high-side. I'll be wearing my spicy and pricey SIDI Rex's from now on. Even just squeezing them in the garage, there's a massive difference in stiffness exactly where I'm hurt. It may have saved my foot.... Heading to the doc in the box for X-rays soon. (Update: X-Rays came back clean! 😄 Still going to rock the fancier boots from now on. Now that I'm riding hard and crashing often, I need something that protects me better in the way I crash)

My bike seems to idle in the 1800 to 1900 range. I will have to figure that out the day I decide to pull the tank off. I will add that to the list of winter time projects to do on the bike. The tank locking cap will be on the that winter list as well. Seems like grinding down the teeth is the way to go. I have a little over 500 miles on the bike so far. I am getting use it rather quickly. One thing I'm not use to is how much heat pours out on your right leg. Other than that it has been a blast to ride. I did add a touring windscreen, which has helped with directing the wind towards the helmet and has stopped the pulling up the helmet effect when you go fast. Today I will add some LED headlights and cruise control. In the morning when I head out for work it is pretty dark out. Anyone know what happened to VFRworld? I can seem to join that forum.

I had something similar on my ST1100 where it would fart and cough when given throttle; that turned out to be weak voltage to the ignition system, caused by corrosion in one of the connectors (the big red one that feeds power to/from the right bar switches).

Just realized that the title has a typo but hopefully it's clear that it's 1200F DCT not 1000FD. I've measured the static sag in the front and it was 40mm while rider sag was 50mm. I've increased the preload but did not measure the sag again, it's quite difficult to do it by oneself I used a white thread tied to fork bottom and a black paint marker. I would say the springs are tired, fork oil is perhaps old or some other mechanical mismatch. The damping in front seemed a bit to strong when measured statically, so I increased it a bit to get basically a 0.5-1s when pushed until it goes back up. The rear preload was decreased by feel (sag not measured but seemed very low) and damping increased to 1/4 from max. I would say it will need replacement. I raised the triple (lowered the forks) to a more reasonable level as the bike was not even safe on the side stand anymore, the light was pointing down and the brake reservoir kept rubbing on the windshield at max steer lock. Anyway, for a short ride it seemed a bit more predictable in turning and going over bumps while leaning, but hard to say without a longer ride. Season will soon be over and I will try to find a respectable mechanic in my area to have a good look at the bike. I used to do my own bikes many years ago but this would be a lengthy side-project, especially checking the valve clearances for this bike. It seems this suspension had a hard life even with not so many miles.

Mine(‘86) acted like that not long ago, turned out fuel pump points were not working due to old age/pitting, etc. Cleaned & polished contacts with a small fine file& sandpaper strips & it’s still working fine after 6 months of use. An extra provision made was to install a common automotive condenser, hopefully reducing sparks @ points..

Good for you. You can now take wiring troubles off your maintenance list. But 20 year old bikes always have something that needs attention.

Hi guys I need help with my 1987 Honda VFR700F. I bought the bike for $300 in Chicago and its been a project ive been working on for a couple months now. Who knows how long the bike had sat before I bought it but the plate that is on it is from California and dated 1998. That being said I got it running and the issue I'm having now is when I go to give it throttle it dies. It'll idle great but I haven't been able to figure out why it dies when the throttle is applied. Ive taken the carbs off and completely cleaned them any help would be appreciated i just want to ride it before winter comes thank you.

Happy to report that I picked the bike back up yesterday and IT’S ALIVE! They replaced the front and the main wire harness under the recall. The front harness is the only one under the recall, but since there were melted connectors between the front and the main harness, Honda protocol said that they have to replace the main harness as well under the recall. Wanted to post a couple of pictures so you guys can see some of the work. I’ve owned the bike for 3 months and yesterday was the 1st time I was able to ride it around the block!

Happy to report that I picked the bike back up yesterday and IT’S ALIVE! They replaced the front and the main wire harness under the recall. The front harness is the only one under the recall, but since there were melted connectors between the front and the main harness, Honda protocol said that they have to replace the main harness as well under the recall. Wanted to post a couple of pictures so you guys can see some of the work. I’ve owned the bike for 3 months and yesterday was the 1st time I was able to ride it around the block!

Terry's right on the coolant Temps, those are normal. On the coolant still,--- you are overdue on a flush out and replace.

Very nice bike! Elegant, discreet, humble but with a certain noble aplomb. Like it!!

That tube is chowdered.

So now, some throttle body work.... Pulled the clamps off the old TBs... and labeled/bagged to keep track of fronts vs rears... Ditched the JIS screws on the clamps and replaced with socket heads from Belmetric (Very good fastener supplier) Cleaned up a small bit of flash on the IDs of the insulators and lubed with silicon grease from Terry's suggestion and hand shoved them down on the intake side, that went fairly easy. Spent a couple hours with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit finishing paper and quasi polished around the TB connection side... cleaned up any "sharp" edges and machine marks so these were good and smoooooth. D- Day time... Success! Slipped on with hand pressure nice and easy like butter... YESSSSS! Ha Ha! I win... not excited am I? 😁 ---whoa, that was a long time coming.... Now get the clamps, terrible task. Did the intake clamps before adding the TBs. On the TB clamps, most of them I could only see the socket head spying with one eye, no straight shots. Several needed to slip the mirror in there to even see the heads at all. This flex shaft was the only tool thing that worked that I could sneak in there to get to a spot to try to grab it for tightening. A 5/32 (3.968mm) bit fits the 4mm socket heads closely. Got 'em done anyhoo. And lastly, sorta oddball thing... I cant remember what else besides that P clamp to hold down the TB harness goes in this spot with large hole and 3 threaded spots. I have taken a ton of photos and this is the reason I do it, but dunno why, but I missed this part. I have 3 screws bagged for it and "huh?" Same kind of thing the throttle cable mount, I have 3 screws bagged but only see where 2 goes... Bonkers, bonkers... throttle seems to operate fine. Anybody got any photos of those spots? Cheers all...

No planned ones this time... just the joyous surprise of a snapped throttle cable :'D 10-4

Mello, my coolant is about 6 years old. Terry yes it is hot here and at speed it doesn't exceed the 200 temp, usually stays around 196 degrees and yes in traffic and stop and go riding it goes above 200.