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In a test in the latest issue of Motorrad those came out on top. You just came across that ad or did you buy these?. If you did: can you charge those without taking the batteries out of their pocket?

Marc Parnes VFR balancer has served me well for YEARS. Somehow it's even worked with every subsequent random bike I've bought

Mega thanks, never noticed the spares tab before on that website.

Cones by Marc Parnes Products were available for around $50 if you already have a balancer. Another option is to have a wheel repair shop opene the center hole so it will fit on a 36mm automotive spin balancer shaft.

If you look at the atached file, the power supply to the fuel pump (the Fuel Cut Relay) needs 12v to be supplied via the ESR and an earth through the ECM. The ECM earth should be present for a few seconds each time the kill switch is activated (this is what primes the pump) and then continually when the engine is running. The ESR will only close when the bank angle sensor has continuity to ground and 12V is supplied from the kill switch. The service manual has basic diagnostic tests for all of the relays mentioned. I would start with functional tests for each relay in the sequence. VFR VTEC PGM-FI Diagram 2002_CORRECTED.pdf

BTDT and it still arrives at the same $120 or so part that I'd personally rather not spend. 🙃

Google MARC PARNES PRODUCTS. I bought cones for VFR800 and Goldwing wheels for a reasonable price. the fit most static balancer shafts.

Paying tribute to Greenland's indigenous people. A snip at €249

Roger that!! 1962....

Well I like a few modern bikes as long as I don't look on the clock's/instrument cluster, the modern TFT screens look so boring.....but mostly I don't like the new angular as mean style, they just look like street fighters and I'm not that style. I love the round clock's instrument cluster's of 80's as 90's bikes as duble round headlights.....still I don't own one whit that at moment (duble round headlights) but sure a few whit nice round clock's/instrument cluster's (86 interceptor, ZR7S)

This might sound a bit mad but is the fuel pump priming function connected to the kill switch? I can't remember off hand but maybe there's something there....

That's true! You'd be even more impressed with the Araldite patch I have on a pinhole leak the radiator of my Deauville - turns out the LED aux lights which were on it when I bought it used self-tapping screws into the plastic rad-surround. I used a screw that was a tiny bit longer when reassembling after replacing one of the aux lights. Noticed some red fluid dripping and thought, "well, it can't be indicator fluid because they're higher up" (LOL). Stripping back the plastic I could see I had put a pinhole in the side of the radiator. It was Christmas time so I was on my own with this one and needed it sorted. Called a local dealer who had no advice other than "try Araldite" so I did. It's been perfect for 7 years! As for the VFR sidestand bolt, I still check it but it hasn't budged at all and it hasn't affected the lean angle of the stand either so I'm happy to leave it be for another while. It might even be a better solution than the original Honda one!

Search for JT model JTF339-15. I bought that one and it fits. The stock 16 tooth one has JTF339-16 designation. The rear one is JTR1340. I couldn't find the 45T one so I bought a 44T one. One tooth in the rear doesn't make much of a difference anyway. For my style of riding I really like the shorter gearing. Coupled with the healtech quickshifter the narrow spacing of the gears is not a problem at all. https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/part/JTF339/ https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/part/JTR1340/

I have unfortunately been forced to open my wallet again for Earl; my hoped-for repair of the forks (which have now been through two sets of seals and a few hours of careful chrome buffing) has clearly not worked, and the left leg started weeping in earnest again. Rather than throw bad money after good I bit the bullet and bought some forks from a local bike breaker; I'm pretty sure I only needed the left side but they only came as a pair, so for USD330 delivered I hit the "buy-now" button. I am pleased with the purchase as the chrome on my new forks is visually faultless. They looked and felt OK so I have just fitted them and gone riding. Past experience is that fork seals usually don't like to be unused for months at a time so I am half-expecting to change the seals but so far, so good. My next plan is to fit the spare 1.0kg/mm Racetech springs that were in my ST1300 and refresh the oil; even with max preload, the stock forks are using 47mm of travel with me aboard, and will bottom out occasionally. Working out the correct spring spacer length burned a few brain cells; this is a trivial job on RWU forks, but with the USD design which uses an internal top-out spring, much head scratching was required. The top-out spring gets compressed when the main spring is installed, to the tune of 13mm. I was also thinking about reusing the GoldValves from the ST but so far the KYB cartridge has me beaten, and requires a more assertive disassembly than the previous RWU Showa forks that I have tackled. Hints and tips would be welcomed, these require the base to be unscrewed from the cartridge tube, and then the same for the seal head. Having some spare forks to mess around with means I can do this at my leisure and not worry too much about causing irreparable damage, but I'm still trying to go carefully. I've not done a lot of riding as I have been off shore for 3 weeks in the frozen north and our "summer" weather has been deeply unreliable lately, but I hope to rectify that. This was the new fork test ride this past weekend, looks nice but it was blustery and I got hammered in some decent showers.

Know anybody with a lathe?

Agree with Brad. I help a friend with his bike detailing business and we draw straws with these newer bikes. 30 to 45 job nearly doubles with all the nooks and crannies.

I have for sale a set of Raask rear sets for a vfr750. Very period looking, bolt straight to existing holes. Complete with parts book. Looking for £60 ovno. I will post anywhere for postage cost or collect from Cromer Norfolk. Photos to be added or i can send them pm.

Oi! Yes, free of charge too! (actually, no)

I'll keep an eye out for one.

Been trying to find a Hawk spacer for a while now, just for that purpose. Ebay and such have been dry for a some time now.

-2C on Sunday, MC club meet to start 2026. Promised a pal to bring a rare fuel tank, but hey, can't take the car now can I? (97% did...) Wore my 12V mc gloves -which are too bulky to handle a Sig P226 for sure- that kept my hands nicely ice-free. En-route I spotted a stinky i-4 Yamaha R6 by the side of the road. Stopped and asked the rider if the bike had broken down. "No, I'm just very cold" Which didnot surprise me as he sported jeans, sneakers and what looked like summer gloves. Och aye, the folly of youth,,,,

Duc GP4 fan? Welcome back!

Does the NHS enforce compulsory tests on pensioners now?

But how do you get past the ugly factor? Seriously. I look at VFR, FJ1200, VTR250 and so many other lovely to look at bikes and then I see the new stuff like these 800s, the FZ series, and KTMs, etc. and they're beyond ugly, not to mention a nightmare to clean with all of those creases and angles. I'm not sure that I could do it.

I've had 520 gearing through all of this, so I also think you should take this opportunity to go 520. But I've done 15/45. 15/43. 16/45. 16/43. 17/45. And 17/43. And I went back to and stayed at 16/43. Which is 6th gen stock gearing. So if you're 6th gen. Stay with what you have. If you're a 17t front, go 16t. And Sprocket Center is where I got everything. I had to call in to get singles. But they have full kits.