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Alternatively, you could just install M6 SS rivnuts into the OEM mount: One connector should get a little trim, to prevent any rubbing: I like it because it's very simple, and the fins go the "right way"! Ciao, JZH

Honda used the same switchgear for many years on many different models. If it looks the same, it will probably work. I'd expect the same connectors and (possibly) the same wire positions. Ciao, JZH

Hello, I'm BC and I'm a helmet-oholic.... I always chuckle when I read statements like this above. Which Arai did you try (?) because Arai makes 3 different head shape helmets. Intermediate oval, round oval and long oval. Shoei Neotec is listed as intermediate oval, so in theory, the Arai Corsair X or Contour X would be similar. But we all know fit is fit regardless of manufacture claims. It's why we try stuff on first, eh? I've worn the Arai Corsair model since the early 90's. And sold them from 1995 to 2014. Watched Arai evolve it from Corsair, to RX7 Corsair to V and now X. The Shoei X-14 and now X-15 fit me perfectly also. RF-1400 is a good fit for me too, I just prefer tons of airlfow with the X-14 / 15. The last non fitting Shoei models I can remember were in the X-11 and X-12 years. I just couldn't get those to fit right at all. I also wear X-Lite X-803RS, Shark Race R Pro and HJC RPHA-11 and 12. All have the same fit for me. Some different features and ventilation schemes, but they all fit me well. I really want to like the AGV but those are too narrow for my noggin. Beit the K6/7, Pista, etc. Most folks call me an Arai guy and I'll take it. And while I understand 100% their build philosopy, I think they are behind on some advances. IMO, the Doohan Corsair I have from 1993 is not very much different to my Corsair X. Yeah, I get R75 shape and the "glancing off", but other advances are available also. That's why I have the other brands and models in my helmet lineup. Along with lighter weight and other features. The few times I've tested gravity and physics on the street and track, all of the top end helmets have done their job without any head injuries. Arai will be the benchmark and my go to helmet, but I've not drank the entire pitcher of their Kool-Aid to miss other great fitting and performing helmets.

Excellent work Terry. Perhaps Mr Daugherty thinks we should all be riding around like a bat out of hell! Or on smooth tracks. What oil are you using in the forks?

I was an Arai devotee for almost 20 years, but the Signet was approaching $1000 USD and I wanted a lighter helmet. I am very happy with my AGV K6--it has a taller and wider field of vision, the shield comes off and back on so much easier than the Arai, it was ~$600, and it is significantly lighter, which makes a big difference when you're snapping your head back to look and make a lane change. There's a K7 now, haven't tried it, but the K6 is great.

I do like Arai helmets and had been wearing them up until I made the switch to Shoei in 2018. I really, really like the convenience of the internal drop-down sun visor in my GT-Air, which Arai just won't replicate. I bought a Shoei in Japan and had the whole custom-fit experience there, but actually that helmet wasn't the most comfortable as it was intended for the domestic Japanese market where they apparently have more rounded heads than us westerners, which left me with more forehead pressure than was pleasant until it wore in (or my skull caved a bit). My second GT-Air was purchased locally and was a long-oval fit, and has been perfect from day one.

Oei, I just realized I have a Shoei. 🤭

Apparently I have a Shoei head and a Corbin ass...

A lot depends on your head shape. I have a Shoei head. Arai makes nice lids, they just don't fit me. I recently got a new Neotec. 1/3 more $ than my last one like most things these days. That said I'm pretty happy with it.

This is why I opted for the spendy Penske 8987 shocks for my 5th gens. Being able to tweak the high, and low speed damping with a simple turn of the adjusters is worth it. Once you have it dialed in for the road it's fine on the track.

Just for info: some similarity with the bearing issue found here.

The quest for front suspension rightness continued. The setup as supplid by DMr was good when the speeds were up but not great below that, where ripples, bumps and other jolts were passed more or less straight through the chassis which was a little fatiguing. there was also an unhappy bar-shaking sensation around low speed bends. I engaged with Jamie and he doubled down on having no low speed bleed, and sugegsting reducing the shim stack further; in this instance I have decided not to follow the expert and to go my own way. After much thinking and a bit of reasearch, I have come to a better understanding of the interaction of the compression damping, notably the low-speed and high-speed aspects. Low shaft speed is controlled by the bleed port and high shaft speed by the shim sstacks. As supplied, the compression valve had no low speed bleed, so any compression flow had to push open the shims to allow oil flow, which accounted for the low speed harshness. The shims are there to act as a controlled "blow-off" valve so when those bigger, faster jolts arise that can't pass through the bleed you don't end up with hydraulic lock. I looked again at the stock compression pistons and these have a fixed low speed bleed of about 0.7mm. They also have quite restrictive oil ports feeding the shim stack, these are what causes the harshness on bigger hits as the oil can't easily flow through these even when the shims open. I modified the DMr pistons by drilling a 0.8mm bleed port through the port wall, taking a stab at the drill size. My old Gold Valve pistons had 1.3mm bypass bleeds, and while that is only 0.6mm bigger diameter, the area is what counts and these are 3 x the area of 0.8mm. Saturday was test riding day; I think the mark of correct suspension setup is whether you notice it at all. With the original DMr setup I spent a lot of riding time thinking "this can't be right". Now I wasn't thinking about the suspension at all, which is some improvement. Ride comfort was greatly improved, bump compliance was great and brake dive control was decent. Next up is a new back tyre, have a GT-spec Road 6 on order, and still waiting on the Nitron shock to be built in the UK.

VID_20260510_185134.mp4

The needle bearing is intact, it's not him

What about this thingie:

I haven't checked my 1200's oil chain but when I looked at the chain in my VTR1000F and VFR800, the chain is quite slack on those. Given the depth of rebuild you are facing, adding a new oil pump drive chain isn't really going to add much for some peace of mind.

Yes, I've already completely sorted out all the details. The bearings are really worn out, but I can't determine what kind of spare part was ground. Maybe some kind of oil screen?

That doesn't look to promising. I could not match it with parts visible in CMSNL. Did you already remove the sump and/or cylinder head covers? Have a look here.

If budget allows, Arai also offers 'Custom Fit', which allows for a higher degree of customization / chance of success.

Hi everyone! I’ve become the happy owner of a Honda VFR motorcycle. 1200, 2010 model year. But I bought it with an engine defect – there was knocking. It sounded like connecting rod bearings. After opening the engine, my fears were confirmed. The bearings do need to be replaced and the crankshaft repaired. But in the oil pan and in the oil pump strainer, I found black aluminum shavings and some black chunks. I want to know what part this is? It's ground up. Also, I'd like to ask, uh, about the oil pump chain tension. It seems to me that it's very… uh, loosely tensioned – there is basically no tensioner on the oil pump at all.

I always struggle with gear fitting and tryed on looking hard at the Arai Signet... came close to pulling the trigger, just for grins in the store I tryed on a Shoei X-15... whoa it fits! Got that one. One of each probably would be the solution, but thats a bit crazy.. who knows? Worje....A Mandelorian fan I see...

Hi. Im at the point where I've removed the top connectors in front of the ECU and can now lift the ECU up so far. Do l need to remove the metal cage from around the ECU in order to gain access to the ECU connectors?

Well here a comparison From this To this Quit a change 😎 Now dream of blue fork boots as gold rims 🤩 But for this season it will stay as this, and probably suspension upgrade is higher on list of modifications than gold rims through would love a wider rear rim so could run more common 130/80-17 rubber that are mostly pitched on the slim 2,5" OEM rims. But we have to see. Have to think about what's sensible to do to it as not. But for now I will enjoy it after fixing the small electric gremlins it has whit light's.

The carbs had a clean and a rebuild got a bit further on pics to follow

Hi and sorry for my absence. @Av8r I went here: https://www.ulezbiketest.co.uk. They are very friendly and I see no reason why a gen 3 shouldn't have a decent shot. Give them a call to discuss before you go, explain it's a carb bike and see what they say. Edit: Sorry - to answer your question I booked, took it there, went to the waiting room... passed - all good! They update TFL and the next working day you're good to go.