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Hi. Any known fan assembly that'll fit the right side rad without major mods?

They are supposed to save you money😁

Hi. Sounds like you've got a few things going on there bro? A few things to check: SMC & caliper mount's where I'd be checking, SMC should be fairly solidly mounted, if slopping around, summat's worn, whole assembly should pivot smoothly on the lower allen bolt, upper clevis should be free moving, stick bike on centre stand, get someone to spin rear wheel while you swing the SMC/caliper assembly upwards, this operates rear brake, let SMC go to release rear brake, if brake sticks on or has excess drag, green return valve will be blocked with crap & SMC likely needs a rebuild kit, same deal as doing a front master or clutch master cyl rebuild, (Tourmax) are only brake parts I use, OEM quality, way cheaper than Honda prices, there's a green plastic return valve hidden under the bolt off banjo mount on the rear of the SMC, if blocked with crap, it totally screws the braking up, rear brake grabs, can lock up enough to leave you stranded or spit you off, a good blow down SMC bore will pop the green valve out, carefully prise it apart & surgically clean the tiny ports & both mesh screens don't lose the tiny spring & ball inside or ya Fooked, can't buy em, no mention of valve in manual. SMC bore's are prone to collect crap in the bottom, needs to be spotless or green valve gets blocked & problem starts all over again. Proportional valve under rubber heat shield near tank hinge can get crap stuck in it too, can be stripped for cleaning, no service parts are available, seen a few partially blocked, never known one fail or wear out yet. Left front caliper pad mounts are known to wear out where pads reside, pad come adrift under braking, check stainless thrust shim is present, seen loads of slide pins corroded, rubber bush/boots that pins slide in can be torn/worn out, only ever use silicon grease, copper & petroleum grease swells em & ruins rubbers. Regular Fluid changes are vital to keep a linked system in good order, obviously check discs are running true, corrosion under disc mounts can lift em enough to cause judder. 👍

Hello all, I'm looking for a linked brakes expert or advice. I live outside Sydney and ride a 5th Generation (1998) VFR800. I've got two problems that i think are related: 1) When i use the rear brake without any front, i get a "violent" shudder through the front. This was minor at first, but is now bad enough to push the bike wide if trying a slow speed round about or hairpin. Braking with the just the front or front and rear together is no problem. Lever is firm and good braking pressure. 2) Today on a ride it felt like the rear was grabbing (that might have been my imagination after all the reading i've done), i was coming off the freeway and had no where to stop. A couple of km up the road when i stopped at the lights i had no rear brake at all. No pressure in the foot lever and the rear wouldn't even hold the bike on the slight slope of the traffic lights. I pulled over and decided to make it to a mates house 20km up the road with just the front brakes. By the time i got to his house the rear was back. The problem didn't occur again for the next 150km to make it home. Problem 1) is still there and probably worse. Is this an issue with the Secondary Master Cylinder (SMC)? The bike is new to me (2500km) but had a brake bleed (or so they say) before i bought it. To make it worse when i arrived home on the driveway the vibrating front wheel is gone now and the brakes feel like they should. Confused and concerned. Thanks for any tips or advice.

both my '87 accord and '98 crv used this, i suppose it's a common thing on four-wheeled hondas

not a 6th gen part, but the fuel injectors share a part number with those from the '99-'01 CR-V. gave me a good chuckle when i found that out.

yeah, the plan is to get the injectors from the parts motor professionally cleaned; i want to be as sure as i can that i won't have to take the throttles off again for a long, long time.

New throttle body intake rubbers ordered. I'm really starting to get excited that I can finish the VFR and be back on the road for the '26 riding season. Throttle body is cleaned and ready to mount when the new intake rubbers arrive. Air cleaner is cleaned and read to fit as well. I seem to recall buying a new air filter, but I'm having trouble finding it. No doubt as soon as I buy another the original will mysteriously appear again. It's been apart long enough that I feel I need to pull the fuel pump and inspect everything for good measure. Dump all the old gas at a bare minimum. The bottom of the fairing took a big hit at some point during the PO's ownership. I have repaired the damage structurally, but over the winter is a good time to paint the repair as well.

Imbesi's Law of the "Conservation of Filth:" In order for something to become clean, something else must become dirty. Freeman's Extension: … but you can get everything dirty without getting anything clean.

Popular swap for those of us who ride 5th gens in warmer climates is to swap to a VTR1000 fan blade so it blows out instead of in. That, and stay above 35MPH.

Ah, the joys of restoring something that's lived in salt air all it's life. Ugh. I commend you sir. I live far enough from the ocean that corrosion is not an issue, but not so far that things get baked, and coated in dust.

I've cleaned injectors by cycling them with a 9V battery while giving them a spray of brakeclean. If you do this don't hold them open very long. Certain types of injectors don't like that. There are also injector cleaning/balancing services.

You are doing the Lord's work.....😁

Thanks for the encouragement folks! It's certainly a bigger job than I anticipated but I'm just working through it step by step and learning plenty along the way!

Damn that sucks bud. I lost mine too, [right side also] it just fell off while I was on the highway.

Sorry I didn't have time to read everything so I might be saying something someone already sent. I had something similar happened to me, no start at all. Turned out, the kill switch was not working properly. I had to flip the switch several times till I heard the gas pump working. In the end, I opened the switch housing, cleaned the connectors and added dialectic grease for extra protection.

20+ years ago I bought a 1985 VF1100S Sabre in boxes, the frame, engine, etc fit comfortably into the back of my Ford Taurus station wagon. Took me 18 months to sort it out, and eventually I took my daughter cross country on it. I thought that was an accomplishment. What you are doing is, well, a whole different level. As a fellow 2001 owner all I can say is Good on ya mate. Keep the updates coming.

I posted about this several months ago about Verdiian wanting a bike to develop a kit for. My impression from talking with them was that after I told the the VFR1200 was a fake TBW and different than other bikes they have done was that they weren't going to make a kit, bit they have done so and it's for sale on their site. US buyers should be aware that per an email in August US buyers will face a 35% tariff charge plus UPS fees due to the change in duty laws for items coming into the US from other countries. Pushing the price up near what I paid for my mcruise unit, though that has also gone up in rprice by the same 35% I would imagine.

I would do that before sticking it in a nasty hole.

Sounds like I should try the WD40; the key is really beefy, definitely not something you can bend easily unlike some earlier keys (my 99 Fi for example) which are pretty skinny. The key slot is perfect, but the bike did have an unfortunate 3-year outdoor experience which has not been kind to many parts. Feels like any lube in the lock has turned into a sticky substance. Thanks all for the comments. I only have the one key although I do have a blank to get cut and coded at some point.

the perks of having a parts motor!

New minimum length chain I meant to say

That 130/80 is the Oem size for my ‘’86vfr, I’m using a 130/90 with no issues, slightly more “sensitive” steering, tiny bit higher (minimum length) it might be a bit tight to get the wheel reinstalled

well the BCM thing didn't quite work out, but i got some very nice domino units instead. they were a bit cheaper than the other thing and still give me all the features i wanted, so it's all good. new MCs as well: new bars all set up: (was quite the relief to hook the switch blocks up and not blow any fuses or let any magic smoke out, all the buttons even work to boot including the ones that weren't there before) this digital flasher i've had laying around for like 8 years finally came in handy. chain and sprockets also on, swingarm's all back together: now some bad news. with the clutch SC back on, i decided it was finally time to start it. threw some fresh plugs at it, mashed the go button, it cranked, and...nothing. it did bark with some starter fluid, at which point it made oil pressure and showed no signs of leaks, but it wouldn't stay running. when i looked down the throttles, nothing was coming out the injectors. then i pulled off the return line and cycled the key to check fuel flow, which checked out just fine (which it damn well should, since i changed out almost the entire fuel system). so the injectors got gummed up. which means i gotta pull off the throttle bodies. son of a bitch. i think what i'm gonna do is pull the injectors out of the old motor and see if they'll come back to life, so i can just get the actual swap job all done in an afternoon, rather than having to leave the TBs on the bench for however long and worry about parts getting lost or junk finding its way into the good engine.

Is it possible the key is bent or twisted? Do you have a second key you could try? Graphite is the better choice for lubrication, too bad it wasn't your solution.