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What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

I ran that profile years ago, and under deceleration around 40~30 mph the 3rd Gen got a little bit of speed wobble type headshake, every time and got worse as the tire wore. The problem went away when I went to a 70 series tire. This was the original Dunlop Sportmax tire from 1992, maybe could have just been a bad tire as I'm sure there are bikes that run that tire without issue, hence why they make them...

It looks like there are good resources for "Beam Loads" and "Column Loads" for Unistrut at given spans online. The only worry I would have is it pulling out of the wall, or bending just below the 45 degree brace. If they are much taller than the bikes, you can run a piece of Unistrut or metal/wood beams across form side to side to prevent collapsing in on itself, and use those to hang your lighting. Although you are extremely thorough in everything I have ever seen you do, so you probably already have a way better plan than my quick brainstorm... Do post pics as you're building it, we need a good project here to keep us dreaming about our own work spaces! Is it too wet there for painted or epoxy floors?

I'm enjoying this thread, looking forward to all the other things you will figure out, and the final result. Are the elevated motorcycle "shelves" really just for display, or do you intend to walk downstairs one morning, decide which bike is perfect for a ride that day, bring it down and zoom off?

And yet another lot done ! From now on, it might get a little slower (yup, even slower than now 🙄) as I just moved out and don't have a space on my own to work from, I'll have to do whatever I need at work during breaks. Also, before I put her back together, I've got to spend about 1k in parts and quite a few hours, the lady needs a lot of attention ... The most worrying is that constant oil sweating at the top of the engine, I've moved the bike to a storage unit 3 days ago and noticed today that it keeps leaking a bit under even though the engine has been on for over 6 months.

Generally, Honda parts like that are bike-specific. That part number includes "MCW", which is the Parts Classification Number for the 6th gen VFR (VTEC), indicating that Honda originally designed that part to fit that bike. It is possible that they then spec'd the same part for other bikes (if so, the part number would not change), but unlikely. Ciao, JZH

Okay, I see what you mean now. Yes, I plan to make some sort of "sled" to allow the bikes to be lifted up using a fork. The frames don't need to be very heavy duty (i.e., heavy), but I do need at least six of them, so I'm pretty sure I'll be welding them myself. Because the shelves will not go all the way to the wall (because the verticals will be in the way), I was thinking about having each sled extend over the front and rear of the shelf with a kind of 30-40mm "tongue" to keep the sled effectively locked in place until lifted straight up with the fork (lift). Fortunately, I have something like 6-7 of these Baxley Wheel Chock knock-offs already, which is a wheel chock design I like because it pinches and holds the front wheel very securely: The clever bit of this design is the articulated wheel clamp, which would be fairly difficult for me to duplicate, but I could probably create a lightweight, fork lift-compatible frame which simply includes a horizontal bracket with angled pivots like that, thus allowing me to use the parts from the stands I've already got. Another thing to CAD... My Unistrut parts arrived, so I mocked one up to get the scale into my head. That bracket is 2m above the floor, which is where the top of the shelf would be. Yikes, that's up there! I'm not sure how deep the shelves should be, but the minimum would be 600mm, and maximum probably 1m. IIRC, the 5th gen in the background measures ~770mm bar-end to bar-end, but in theory the shelf could be narrower than that. The workbenches below will be a standard 600mm deep, but 41mm from the wall. They make these pre-welded "cantilever arms" for Unistrut in all kinds of sizes, up to 1m long, and they're silly cheap (like £8 each), so I will probably use them for the main shelf supports. I'd then only have to cut, drill and weld the 45-degree brackets supporting them, using 30mm mild steel box section and 40mm x 8mm flat bar. Another fun fact is that because my ceiling is 3.5m high, I'll have to buy the 6m lengths of strut and cut them down if I don't want to couple two of them (and I don't!). Fortunately, they will still fit in the van--so long as I cut them first. Ciao, JZH

Webbike Japan lists these for USD79.

You were absolutely right about both of those things. Thank you so much

The short answer is: You would not be the first motorcycle rider to inspect it for cracks, and if none found, put it in a vise and slowly bend it back into shape with a shifting spanner and maybe a pipe on the handle for leverage. Hopefully somewhere you have a photo of the bike to give you an idea of what the final product should look like. If not cracked but severely bent, you could do the same with heating it at the bend with a torch, but if you have not done this before, I would not recommend it as you can weaken the metal. Looking around, the 5th Gen and the 8th Gen pedals are different part numbers. Does not mean they would not work, but I have no personal knowledge having not swapped them. If you end up looking for a used one, as you are in the UK, you can try David Silver Spares. I bought a few things from them for my 91 VFR when I lived there. Good bunch. Homepage - David Silver Spares If all else fails, CMSNL over in the Netherlands, shows them ( Part number 46500MCWD00) for the princely sum of £120 plus shipping and I assume VAT. yikes. Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - ATV, Classic Bike, Dirt Bike Parts Hope this is of some help.

What is better than a afternoon ride after some vfr work in the garage, especially as weather is nice, 26°C at highest and sunny ☀️ 😎 This time to a other cafe that has a bit bigger road there, "the green hell" I call it, lots of small elevation change's as curves, shame half the road has a 60km/h restriction these days, your driver's license is sure out in the wind..... But still a delight to ride !

Hi. My 2002 VFR 800 VTEC fell over and has bent the "Rear Brake Pedal" ( my own fault, for putting it on the side stand, and leaving it literally vertical.😳🤭) So is there any other "Honda Rear Brake Pedal" that will fit it, or has it got to be from a 800 VTEC. TIA.

Do you guys know if a newer motor will fit in my 2010? Like a 12 or 13? Is there any physical differences? Saw one on eBay.

Couple things: "All fuses are good" Does that include the Main Fuse that is under a cover on the solenoid holder? I have to ask. Also, solenoids come in two styles and they are mirror images of each other. There is usually a "B" (Battery) and an "M" (Motor) molded into the plastic near the cable posts. If you got an opposite (and your original unit was really bad), you will need to re-pin the wires on the plug in the mirror image too. Also closely inspect the wires going into that plug. It is VERY common for those to be melted and burnt and can cause what you describe. Sometimes you don;t realize how bad it is until you really look close. Also, you can plug in your original solenoid just to see if you get any power again. Great choice in a VFR model and good luck.

thank you soooo much, they even the 1986 model and hrc and repsol ones. planning to posts some pictures.

Hi. My 2002 VFR 800 VTEC fell over and has bent the "Rear Brake Pedal" ( my own fault, for putting it on the side stand, and leaving it literally vertical.😳🤭) So is there any other "Honda Rear Brake Pedal" that will fit it, or has it got to be from a 800 VTEC. TIA.

This guy should be able to sort you out, he’s had everything I wanted for my 89 https://shop.xtremedecals.com/shop/category.aspx/vfr-series/38/

Are we able to buy replacement decals for the vfr 750f? I was planning to restore ours as it has been left out for like 10+ yrs, and a lot of the paint and decals are scratched and some parts were missing. Would it also possible to find one in websites or do they have to be custom-made now? We had one with HRC livery. But finding parts here in the Philippines is hard considering it was an import from Italy I think. Any links or advice would be appreciated!!!

So it's getting there, radiator on, fuel tank on Got new fuel filter as fuel lines between tank and pump Did just paint the upper thermostat housing that you mostly see, it was time for new bolt's as well Tomorrow I should get the new plug for the clutch cover, so could basically then fire up the bike as battery is charged. Need to get some fuel. If all goes well and it runs and no fuel pooring of carbs it needs fairings on still, and there is a thing to fix on upper fairing before mounting it So my plan to have it out during my 2 vacation weeks is getting a bit tight, but perhaps possible 🤞

I'm new to the fourm and new to VFR's. I bought a 1987 VFR700F Interceptor off a guy in Chicago for $300 and I've been trying to get the bike running. Im assuming the bike has sat for some years. I bought a new battery for it and was able to key it on and get the lights and dash lights on but when I pressed the start button the lights just dimmed down and kind of fluttered. So I figured the Ignition solenoid probably needed to be replaced so I ordered one and put it on but now when I key the bike on I get absolutely nothing. Battery voltage reads 12.65 at the terminals and at the Ignition solenoid. All the fuses are good and I dont see any messed up wiring anywhere. I need some help in the direction I should go if anybody out there knows common issues these bikes have. I appreciate any knowledge I can get thank you

Hi, guys. I'm new here and I have a 2000 Honda VFR. When I go to start the bike, it doesn't want to get up to 1300 rpms at first but then when you give it a little gas to get it up to 1300 rpms. You do that for about 3 to 5 seconds it stays running, but then the FI light comes on. Then the bike would idle at 1500 then after a minute or two it starts dropping in rpms until it dies.

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm driving at. Most screens that are cut like that, the top "plane" tends to match the angle of the top of the tank. Cheers!

As Stray points out, having a structural member in your garages ceiling has some benefits as far as options for lifting or stabilizing the bike I have a 1 ton chain hoist mounted above my lift. They are about $70 at HF. First pic I used my hoist to lift the bikes rear up as bit to do some work this Spring. Second pic I used the hoist to stabilize the bike at the handlebars as I was going hammers and tongs working on it this past Fall. Good tip over insurance without having to strap the bike down.

How dya gerron with the bars n hoses? For the foreseeable, I'm still running OEM hoses on my 1999 5th Gen, can't justify the expense of pre-made after market hoses, they're just way way overpriced, a bit of research proved I can source AN-3 braided hose for approx £10 p/metre, Goodridge style stainless or chromed adjustable hose end fittings for approx £5 each, do the math & it's a massive cost saving over paying for pre-made hose kits, plus I can custom fit each hose length to suit my own chosen routing. From my research, In the UK, Goodridge & Venhill are the only pre-made hoses/hose kits that use adjustable end fittings, hose ends are not interchangeable between brands, other brands only supply crimped ferrules, hose ends can be tweaked into correct orientation, don't expect them to be perfectly aligned when they arrive, from previous crimped hoses bought, I've rotated the end fittings into a better position using soft jaws in my bench vice & a plastic coated electrical screwdriver thru the banjo end, takes some trial & error to find the sweet spot on the ferrule so the banjo rotates easily. Update: My budget bar mod works mint, cost very little compared to what you've shelled out for ABM kit. eBay 5th GenTop yoke = £15 posted, needed drilling & repainting. eBay FZS1000 bar mounts = £10 posted, just needed repainting. ebay, ST1300 throttles cables, a few inches longer than 5th Gen cables, mucho needed with higher bars if you want to preserve stock cable routing. FZS1000 OEM bars (steel) black chrome finish, spare from my other bike when I changed to Renthals yrs ago. I did tried some spare Renthals that I'd bought yrs earlier & never used, not in a million yrs would they work on a 5th Gen, partly due to the bends in Renthals being quite far apart compared to road bike bars, Renthals are made for Moto-X, master cyl to fairing contact well before full lock. Took a punt on trying some old stock bars I'd saved from my FZS1000, these work to perfection, almost as if Mother Honda had designed them for a 5th Gen, no clearance issues at all, mucho improved riding position for my old back n hips too. First test ride lasted 2hrs plus, on the old OEM bars, even with 20mm risers I'd have been lucky to ride an hour without stopping & getting off for a mooch around, stretching my neck n back etc. Summary: This mod cost me very little, achieved a way better, more comfortable riding position, plus the bonus of my MRA D/Bubble screen no longer knocks the shit outta my head anymore, it now funnels wind at my chest, exactly where I want it, killed two birds with one stone kinda deal.