All Activity

Reddit said my 'karma' was 'too low' to be able to post this picture. Oh, no! LOL

OOOoooohhhh......I think you need a NSFW tag on this sort of Motorcycle Porn!! Deep Red...Gold Rims...be still my beating heart! I agree that this is the pinnacle. Is she for sale?😍

On my van I had a parasitic draw that removing all the fuses did nothing. I started disconnection things and of course the last thing i disconnected was the starter which was the problem.

I do think the 6th gen has the best VFR styling and the white/black is a standout colour scheme, although I am partial to the deep red version of course.

I recall a Youtube video where parasitic drain was traced specifically to a failing regulator/rectifier.

The right side of the turn signal will be the left side in the switch, which is the lower side due to the angle of the bars and sidestand use. Maybe they're more prone to trapping water in that area?

Can't argue with those results!

I haven't disappeared; I have a bit of time to devote to these things, so the wait is a bit long. During my "vacation" in August, I dedicated myself to cleaning the rusty tank with Beyond Ballistics' "magic potion," and the result was amazing. I wasn't entirely convinced, especially since the treatment leaves a dark patina on the metal, which is easily removed by scrubbing, but doing it inside the tank and reaching all the spots was impossible. So when I did the treatment, I added some gravel (6-7 lbs) to scrub the inside of the tank. I'm posting some photos of the same parts before and after the treatment so you can judge the result for yourself. during treatment Once finished I rinsed several times with water shaking the gravel inside, then once everything was removed I put in a little diesel to remove the water residue and leave everything slightly greasy so that it doesn't rust.

Gummed up is a general term, you may well have freed switch off with a few squirts of snake oil, doesn't mean it's electrically clean enough to conduct enough current from switch contacts to loom contacts, hence I also advised to clean all loom grounds as well fully stripping switch for a proper deep clean, since you consider poking around with a pick n contact cleaner is adequate to deduce there's no issue within the switch, well more fool you.

I would disconnect the ground and use a vom and use the 10 amp setting and hook the leads between the negative battery terminal and cable to see how much draw you have with the ignition off. Ton of videos on the tube having to do with parasitic draw. A way to narrow down where the draw is coming from is to remove each fuse until you find the one that makes the draw go away.

Might be buying some panniers for my 7th gen without a key. What are the options to solve this?

The problem I'm referring to, and the similar threads, don't have anything to do with the headlights. Just the signals. If you are having issues with your headlights thats a separate issue.

I reckon bikers are much funnier than cat-obsessed reddit moderators. You can take the Mickey out of any biker and they'll laugh and throw it right back to you. Respect.

I don't do much social media because it annoys me. I did my first post on Reddit - it was of my Cat - and got permabanned. On the first day!! LOL

I'm a True Aussie. People are surprised I am Italian because I don't have an aussie accent. Confuses the heck out of them and I love that!

Yep...my folks came here from bombed-out Italy in 1953. They met on the boat, actually

I am no expert. But it is a kind of similar problem I have ( ... in other thread). Right side headlight and turn signal are not functioning well. I traced it to the grounding. You can try to measure resistances of grounding on L / R side. The headlight sockets against frame starground seems to be the easiest points. May be, you will find the bug. It is a plausible explanation in my eyes, because the cycling frequency of the flasher relay depends on resistances in circuit.

Thank you. This is what I have been looking for. The junction! Hopefully, I will find time in the evening.

No need to apologize Terry. I did find you comment regarding the Electrical Circuit helpful. Also I did look up Deoxit but it's not common or cheap around my neck of the woods. The other threads about this problem confirm what you have said, The common point is the switch, and the flasher unit/relay is the same both both signals. But still....odd that every problem mentioned, from VFR's around the world with this issue, it's always the Right Side that's worse than the left. There must be something going on. 🤔

Your bike is an absolute beauty, man! And... jus for my curiosity... since you're born in Australia... well, I think you're supposed to be Australian, right? 😁 Maybe you meant that you have Italian origins? Coming back to the beauty, just for my personal taste, if I were in your shoes I'd consider to remove the rear grips 🤘

While taking the parts off, I've noticed that there was a tiny gap between the bearing in the hub sprocket and the bottom of its housing, my small hapiness was cut short when after 20 minutes on the press, the bearing has not moved whatsoever. Either the gap is normal (between 1 and 2mm) or the bearing is stuck in its current position. I tried again in case something had moved but I didn't see it. Sadly it's still locking up as I'm tighting the hub nut. So now, my plan is to take the bearings out, replacing it by the old bearing to see if it sits properly, if so then try it and make sure everything spin freely and if that is the case, I'll go to a local bearing fabricator with the old Honda bearing to get a proper copy. It might be a stupid question but, is that normal that the spacer in the hub sprocket is has a lot of play ?

I updated to the '03+ stator and (1lb less!) flywheel. flywheel '99: 3 lb 14.75oz '03+: 2lb 15.825oz

Great one! Anyway, wishing you the best on the restoration. It's great bike once you get it dialed in. The Service Manual is on the site here somewhere if you don't have it already.