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Hello! I'm sorry to being back this dead thread but I'm doing this now and your help would really help me get back on the road! For the sequence for the PCV. 1) My helper pumps the rear brake pedal 2) while he is holding the rear brake pedal. I squeeze the SMC. 3) he cracks open the PCV and hopefully fluid comes out. 4) he closes the PCV bleed nipple. I release the SMC and he lets go of the brake pedal. Is this correct? When does one let go of the brake pedal? This is my biggest confusion. Once again. Sorry and thank you for helping!

Hello all! Long story long, I ordered Spiegler brake lines. I fitted them on the bike. I "bled" the system. And rode for two months. It has come to by attention that my front brake was not engaging the rear brake. So when I was rolling forward to a stop light and squeezed the front lever the bike would stop like a bike with no Linked brakes. (When engaging the rear. The bike would engage both front and rear in typical VFR fashion that we know and love) I THEN found out that one of my lines is pinched. Probably from my crappy install. This line runs from the left caliper into the hard line on the left side of the frame (which I believe goes to the PCV valve) Since it looked pinched, I contacted Spiegler and bought another line. I installed it today but did not bleed anything yet. I've read A LOT of bleeding into on the forums, reddit and the manual. And everyone has different opinions. It's minor but it's different. I come here to pick your brains once more since other threads or similar topic are dead. 1) bleed right side outer nipple 2) bleed left side outer nipple 3) bleed left side middle nipple (fluid sucked from rear reservoir) Take off left caliper and tilt it (15 or 45 degrees?) compress the SMC and have a friend undo the PCV valve under tank. Once he sees fluid coming out, he closes the PCV and I release the SMC after. (I guess this bleeds the PCV) Fluid used from rear reservoir. 4) bleed middle nipple of rear caliper 5) bleed outer nipple of rear caliper. (Helps to have the caliper lifted up so air escapes) This is how I did it the first time and am planning to do so again. Am I going wrong anywhere here? Any tips will be appreciated. THANK YOU!

Lol, I did try recording a few seconds of it but the mic or phone brains (I don't know how this stuff works) did some auto EQ thing that has it appear the cam whine is about as loud as the exhaust. It's most definitely not. If you want to hear what this sounds like just go pull off your VFR's muffler.

All this and no recording? Wtf? 😜

Speaking of Delkevics and 5th gens. Anyone else rocking a standard height mount? If so, and you want an easy laugh. FYI their link pipe OD is 2" meaning muffler ID is the same. This $40 hot garbage from Amazon also has a 2" ID. This ain't a muffler, just dresses a open header and installs in a minute. This thing is just welded aluminum pipe with a terrible paint job.. but ..The sound is otherworldly on a 1998 or 1999. 😁I tossed their staggered bracket it came with and just slapped on a 2" brace from Home Depot. Yeah.. I'll be putting the Tri-Oval Delkevic right back on. An hour of this was fun enough, but is a little loud. I'll keep it around though. Probably toss it on for a coffee meet or something who knows, straight pipe Harleys can't have all the fun. I'll bring the Delkevic can with me of course so I can swap back. 2000 and 2001 owners with the catalytic headers might be able to get away with running this all the time since the cat is it's own silencer.

Citeam despre Balance Beads și mi-am dat seama că după o zi lungă în garaj sau cu hobby-urile tehnice, e plăcut să te relaxezi puțin online. Eu mă joc pe chicken road game, optimizat pentru jucătorii din România, și jocurile rapide și bonusurile locale fac timpul liber mai distractiv. E o metodă excelentă de a te deconecta și de a te relaxa după orele petrecute cu motoarele sau alte proiecte.

No worries, hope you get the old girl up n running soon.

Pics required if you need advice.

Sound like this so called tech is blowing smoke up your arse mate. A few simple meter tests will confirm if starter is good or not. If starter's got a short, no way can a short just disappear when starter's removed from the bike. Hope this stealership's not rippin you off bro.

Thanks for the posting op. I recently had a 5th Gen plop in the shop, did a thunderous tear down, threw a slough of parts into the garbage, and am hoping I remember where the good parts go lol It will be a pile of parts by the time i'm ready to put it back together.

VFR1200F FD 2010-2015 Service Manual View File Better quality images in this one. Submitter Terry Submitted 11/19/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

A starter that fixes itself on the bench? That's freakin' cool.

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/290-vfr1200x-crosstourer-honda-shop-manual/

Sadly, sfdownhill is no longer with us. I don't know if that kit contained any custom machined parts, but I suspect it did.

Skeptical, but thinking positive for you. I have been wrong many times before and will be many times in the future. Good luck.

Very interesting build. Sorry about the pathetic posts from that guy, he's not like the rest of us. Are you talking about the 8th Gen rear hub/wheel?

Alright, so I spoke with the tech. He explained that the starter itself is having some sort of internal shorting causing it to draw a half of the battery’s voltage. When he removed the starter to bench test it like I did it worked like a charm, but when put back on the bike it would just steal half the battery’s voltage once he pushed the starter button. He took the starter apart, cleaned the brushes, inspected the rest of the internals and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. The conclusion we both came to was the starter itself drew so much voltage that it shorted the relay (and battery) which is why the bike died while it was running. This does add up because I had to replace the starter relay last year; so we figured that the starter has been “taxing” me in the form of shorting my relays since the starter is drawing too much power. He says he checked everything in the system and the starter is the only thing that is “acting up” so I reluctantly ordered it… However, as for it not being able to be bump-started we still haven’t figured out why it’s been acting like that. I’ll keep you guys updated, but for context this bike has had electrical gremlins for the longest time since I bought it from some Quebecois bastard that neglected it in his garage for almost 3 years…

Thanks Gaz! That explanation is perfect. The last thing I want to have to do is pull this thing back apart again because of some small oversight!

VFR1200X Crosstourer Honda Shop Manual View File Honda Shop Manual for 2012 VFR1200X Crosstourer. Submitter Skids Submitted 11/18/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

Recently added a quick shifter to my 8th gen 2014 VFR800FD following some info I got here purchasing some OEM style parts for a CBR 600 RR. The QS works awesome so far as seamless WOT shifts. The 600 Shift pedal is adequate but spaced away from the frame farther than I like. I am looking for an OEM QS pedal or other solution to improve the pedal position. Thanks in advance Crusty

Hay D. Small bore pipe from left side of rear cyl head pipe union feeds the lower port of wax fast idle unit, this is "INLET". Small bore pipe with tight U-bend from stat housing feeds the upper port of fast idle wax unit, this is "OUTLET". Both pipes route up thru centre of throttle body assembly direct to wax unit. Ensure wax unit is not blocked (common issue).