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If you're after a Givi one, I think it's the 1132FZ.

That's a really good idea I may do that same thing and it'd also be a great way to keep people from stealing it as well especially if I hide it where the relay goes. Ill keep you posted I got it half way torn apart because im currently vinyl wrapping the ferrings and gas tank. Who knows when this bike last ran, all the fluids were nasty and the guy I got it from in Chicago said it was his dad's but his dad got dementia and he had to sell it before he left for the army.

Hey.... Jumping on said RC31. I'll check in later. But awesome progress!!

Now that it has ran you can plug the relay back in and feel if the pump clicks every now and then while it runs and starts to empty the bowls.

Most of my bikes have a toggle wired in parallel so I can prime the fuel system after winter storage AND get home when the Fuel Cut Relay fails in the middle of nowhere or a floating bridge. Both scenarios are true.

Ok. Very cool!!! Possibly. You can run the bike no problem with the relay bypassed. When the pump reaches a pressure it will stop and then pump when it senses it needs to when the line pressure drops. The relay is a 'safety feature" to keep the pump from running in the event of an accident where the key is on and the pump could continue to pump fuel into a bad situation. The Hawk GT I'm riding today just has a toggle in place of a relay in case I'm working on the fuel system with the key on.

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Holy crap it started thank you so much. Does that mean I have a bad wire running to that relay? Like I said the relay is new and I traced the black and blue wire then tested for resistance and it was like .2. So thatd mean the black wire has a bad spot somewhere correct?

So jumping the black/blue + black wire worked, im currently trying to start it now

Ok jumping wires now. I had to edit that post that you just responded to. Im tinkering with it now. I didn't realize the battery voltage was dropping so much

Also realize that with the relay in place, the only time the pump will operate is when it is being cranked or running (That ignition signal we talked about earlier). If the carbs are empty or need some filling, it will take a bit of cranking to get enough fuel in the carbs to start. Also I have found that if you are trying to prime a dry system (lines and pump) sometimes that fuel tank and petcock just won't "start" flowing even tho the pump is trying to pull some fuel. I sometimes have to put a rag around my air nozzle in the fuel filler opening and "pressurize" it just a little and then the fuel start flowing no problem. Good luck!

Unplug the relay and jump the black and black/blue wires with a wire at the female connector. With the key on, and the relay bypassed, the pump should operate. The colors of the three wires change some across the models, but I should be close. You can hurt anything trying different combos. If there is a yellow/red wire present, it should be the other two. Basically, when the yellow/red wire (or whatever it is on yours) is getting a signal from the ignition, it energizes the relay to allow 12v to the pump by "connecting" the other 2. Those are the two wires you are trying to jump. Report back.

@Captain 80s I got that issue fixed now the only thing that I can't seem to figure out is why the fuel pump isn't pumping when trying to start the bike. Battery is brand new and has a 13.6 voltage until i hook it up to the bike then it continues to drop stopping around 10.3, starter relay is brand new, fuel cut relay is new, bench tested the fuel pump and it works as well but im not getting 12 volts to the fuel pump itself. Is there a hidden fuse somewhere or possibly a ground that needs checked?

I hope his wife likes doing the dusting.

I got Hepco and Becker. Can be done with or without top rack. I chose without. The racks, after initial installation, can be removed or installed in about 5 minutes or less.

If your storing the bike over winter, I was told not to just start it as your not going to get the bike hot enough to burn off any condensation, also fill the tank with fuel and block exhaust and inlet, plus change the oil just before you put it away for winter, it all helps keep her sweet

I tend to worry about him if no new bike appears for say 3 months....

Tank looks great, both brake and clutch systems flushed less than 50 miles ago but was June 2024. Coolant was also flushed and changed at the same time. @mello dude I'll try to take some pics today, all I have taken are at night in the garage with shadows and such...because I need to finish wiring the garage and hanging the rest of the lights. (It's miserably hot on a ladder in there lately!)

I used the factory mirror screw in the front cowl to mount mine—just needed a longer bolt and a small spacer. Super steady and doesn’t block my view at all.

You want to be able ride them easily. If not, look what our (deceased) club president did to his livingroom. https://www.motor.nl/video/motormuseum-in-je-huiskamer/

If you anchor the feet of the racks, and anchor to the wall, you should be fine with an extra beam on the wall side lower down. Another general principle is to not exceed beam deflection by (beam length)/180".

From my post, I was thinking that lawnmowers needs to determine whether it's really clutch plates sticking or the push rod is sticking with a dodgy hydraulic clutch circuit. That will then point to the course of action.

Well thanks to this thread, and Frogger and TT, I absolutely broke the bank last week and ordered a $63 CarPlay unit made in China by Camecho. Just finished the install so haven't ridden it yet but I have to say it all works quite nicely. Here's the (few) Cons, then the Pros, mostly as compared to my new doorstop, the 15 year-old Garmin Zumo: Cons: -The Zumo showed elevation, which was kind nice, but I'm sure I can find an app... -The Zumo was a quick (one second) disconnect. On this unit you have to unscrew the waterproof connection, which is on about a foot of cable attached to the unit. And when you screw it back on the inner piece must be aligned rotationally perfectly, probably not easy in the dark. But then again, it only costs $63, maybe I'll never remove it... Pros: -Well, it's CarPlay. I'm iOS, but even if you're Android you'll know that it does pretty much everything CarPlay does in your car. Pretty sweet. -Screen is excellent, great definition. I'll post more after a ride. -I hooked it up to the GPS power source Ducati provided but hid behind the bodywork, just as I had for the Zumo. I left a 2 amp fuse in the line just in case, probably overkill since it's fused anyway. I spent most of my install time just getting the wiring how I wanted, making sure the wires didn't foul movement at full lock, or get rubbed by any other part. -It paired w my phone in maybe 10 seconds. Paired and works seamlessly. -I'm not really a listen-to-music-while-riding guy, but maybe I'll install the Scala unit from my old Arai. We'll see. Hey, can't beat it for the price, 10% of the cost of my Zumo, not adjusted for inflation.

The only thing that sticks clutch plates together is cold oil and viscosity. My bikes never suffer from that, probably because they never sits still long enough. The clutch has an inner and an outer, where the fibre discs engage with the outer, driven from the crankshaft, and the steel discs engage with the inner and drive the gearbox input. When the engine is in neutral, the clutch spins as one unit, but when you drop into 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled, the inner will quickly stop and the outer carries on spinning, which is why there is often a bit of a clonk. I'd suggest letting the engine get up to a good operating temperature as that will give the clutch a chance to be bathed in nice hot oil. At that point I would shut off the engine and put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled, and then try rocking the bike back and forth to free up the sticky plates. If you need to get to it, clutch disassembly is no big deal but you will need a spare gasket and the patience to scrape off the old one without galling the mating surface. You can do it without dropping the oil, on the sidestand. Just don't drop foreign objects into the open sump...I just swing the case to the side and hang it up so I don't need to do anything with the ignition pulser wires. My 6th gen is below but the 5th is basically identical. Remove the 5 bolts and the clutch can be easily pulled apart, but use a torque wrench and go softly when rebuilding it.

If you only had a little more height... What about going 2x3 high (3x2?) on one side to leave the full wall open on the other side?