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Not that it makes any difference, but I still think the edge of the rim dug in on the slide. Asphalt isn't smooth like glass. There's all manner of crevices among the aggregates. Look at photo billy provided of rim at 6 - 7 o'clock position. That bottom edge of the crack shows a clinger with an outward curl like the rim edge was peeled back. That's what I would expect to see happen if the rim edge got snagged on the slide.

There’s also a small foam filter in the end of hose feeding carbs with atmospheric pressure, often overlooked & can deteriorate badly. If it’s restricting free air flow symptoms will be pretty much as described, #6 in parts diagram for air cleaner…called sub air filter

Well Billy, how you describe the events of the off, seems you hit nothing to warrant a destroyed front rim. A hidden flaw in the rim may have been present in the rim? poss from an off with a previous owner? maybe it just took a bit of a wallop for it to let go, if that's what happened, it's a blessing in disguise. Personally I wouldn't touch a known bent/straightened bike wheel with a barge pole, car rims are a far more substantial construction & can maybe stand the stress of being cooked by a gas torch & reworked straight, it's a brutal process, Google it, personally I wouldn't risk using a straightened cast alloy rim of any kind. Re: the above mentioned breakers in your neck of the woods, they state they guarantee all parts as good, you could always as them to verify a wheel is straight while your there. I'd expect they'll have a wheel jig of some description to spin up a rim or how would they be able to claim a used rim had been inspected for straightness? Re: twisted forks, forks don't actually twist as such, they bend below the lower yoke, the twist happens within the upper & lower yoke alignment, any off can twist up the yokes, reset em by loosening both lower yoke pinch bolts, this often results in an audible crack, grab the front wheel between your knees & flex the bars a bit in both directions, this may result in an audible crack too, that's the twist coming back out the yokes, bounce the front thru its stroke several times, put bike onto centre stand & torque up yoke pinch bolts, this is usually enough o untwist the yoke alignment, you may also need to slightly loosen the upper yoke centre steering nut a tad & bounce it again, this will also help the yokes realign, obviously bike needs to be sat on 2 inflated tyres for this process. Shame bike uses the newer style rims, if your'e stuck for a rim, based on the cheap prices used, I'd test fit a 5th/6th front rim using your own axle & spacers, good chance it'll fit as a temp measure until u locate a good used 8th Gen rim then sell on the other rim.

I just noticed this thread…. Definite carb issue. The full Remus is likely the culprit. Popping on overrun generally indicates a lean condition. A jet kit would be in order here. And the fuel mixture screws at least 2 1/2 turns out. The air cut valves are there to help with popping also; so may be suspect. The strong fuel small at idle is weird. You don't mention the model year, but are the floats set to spec (9mm, assuming this is a '90-93)? Always hard to say from a distance, but further carb tuning is indicated.

I've not had a bike wheel straightened but have had a car wheel done. What I was told is that they have to use heat to straighten them so it will have to be refinished. That is why they had a minimum charge of $275. That was like four years ago. There is no "cheap" fix that I was able to find. I had it done because the used wheels that I could find would have no way for me to be sure they were straight.

Please tell me you didn't use a Phillips head bit? First rule of wrenching on any Honda (or Japanese motorcycle for that matter) is to remove all Phillips head screwdrivers from your toolbox and toss them in the trash. I've done a handful of throttle cable replacements on 5th gens. Much easier to get that little bracket off first and install last. -stuff a rag or paper tower wad below that area in the V of the engine just in case you drop a screw. It will be less likely to vanish if you prevent it's path from falling into the void below the throttle bodies. -ratcheting offset 1/4" drive screwdriver fit with a JIS bit is your best friend for this job. Bonus points if you get one with a swivel head. This little fella stays in a tool roll next to an ammo clip of JIS bits. I also keep a standard 1/4" bit driver (traditional screwdriver profile). https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08DQ9ND52

I faced this little challenge when I borrowed the throttle tube from my 99 to use on my 1200. I couldn't get a straight shot at those screws so I opted to back off the adjusters fully, which gave just enough slack at the throttle housing.

Removing the throttle cable adjustment bracket makes getting the cables off much simpler. Unfortunately, yes, the little screws need to come off. Do you have a JIS screwdriver set? And maybe a hand impact wrench?

Hoping some of our Croatian members chime in. Looking for recommendations. Specifically in Zagreb, Split or Rijeka. I worked in Croatia for 4 summers, I am familiar with all 3 cities. Not looking for anything in particular, just never know what suddenly can't live without.🙂 I'll be there on Feb.11th. Fly back Feb 28th. Thanks.

The handlebar switches on my 5th gen are pretty shot, so I bought replacements, but the throttle cables are giving me grief. Is there any way to get the throttle cables loose *without* involving the screws down by the throttle drum? I can't find my ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver and I'm afraid I might have already mucked up the head on the smaller screw. I can buy a new tool, but if I'm missing something clever, I'd sure like to find out.

A twisted fork is usually temporary and can be untwisted by slackening the top nut and fork clamps on the triple clamp, and tweaking the wheel to the side required. A quick and dirty check for fork tube straightness is to loosen the top and bottom clamps on one side and seeing if the tube can be rotated in the clamps without too much effort. Otherwise you will need to diassemble the fork and place each tube on v-blocks with a dial gauge.

Looks like the left handle bar is bent in as well. Might have to just get a pipe on it and bend it back, until the fiscal environment improves! lol Does anyone else have any opinions on the second hand, slightly biffed rim I'm thinking of going for? Also, should I move this thread to one that's more mechanical/repair orientated, or is it OK here?

So there's a little bit of damage to the right hand fork lower. I know there's a bit of rust, but this picture was taken a couple of days post-incident. The scuff definitely wasn't there previously, as I only change the front pads a few months ago and would have seen it then. Does anyone know how best to check if the forks are bent/twisted?

The 2 wheel centre, Harpenden. I can't recommend them highly enough. Family business run by brother and sister Nick and Sophie. Honest and reliable. Caters for all makes. https://www.the2wc.co.uk/

Hi all, I need a service for my 2010 6th gen VFR800. I'm based in London and looking for a motorcycle tech that specializes in these sorts of bikes. Does anyone have any recommendations.?

A draggy back calliper can be caused by a partial seize of the secondary master cylinder on the left fork leg. Make sure that is moving freely (should be just a couple of mm) and applying and releasing the brake when you push the calliper forward then let it go. Generally draggy pads can be caused by gunk building up in the piston seal groove; if you have that, the callipers need to be fully diassembled. the grooves need to be gently scraped clean, the pistons polished (or replaced if they are corroded) and then the whole lot reassembled with silicone grease or similar.

Yes, bought a pair and yes, the batteries can stay in the pocket. Albeit a bit more "fiddly" than the Klan-e's. But there the (outside) cable desintigrated after a couple of years intensive use. My local dealer got a new set under warranty for me.

Not yet, mate. Will ring around tomorrow.

Have you spoken to the company that's going to straighten it?

Sadly these 2 still want in the back room Slow progress on other stuff as other things has turned up, also at moment really cold outside so colder in garage also even not badly

So, here's a couple of pics and vids of the wheel from the guy in the US. He wants about $280 shipped. What do y'all reckon? obviously I'll have to get it straightened, but I don't know much about that sort of thing. Does it look like something easily achievable by a repair firm? I'm leaning toward going this route if possible, as it turns out a bar is also bent, so the cost is adding up.... VFR WHEELRUNOUT 2.mp4 VFR WHEEL RUNOUT 1.mp4

You Sir, are a gentlemaan and a scholar! Thanks for the link, the price isn't actually too horrendous. I just need to weigh up whether it's worth trying to save a bit by going used....

Ha ha, yeah the flip at the end was her way of saying exactly that! Sorry to hear about your shoulder, but glad you were also able to walk away from your London adventure. I could live with mismatched wheels, but I'd bet a pound to a pinch of shit something somewhere won't fit. There are more potential dimensions than I first considered, so I think I'll have to bite the bullet and get an 8th gen one. Thank you for the offer, though.