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man, that is...suboptimal. i don't even think the brakes on my rustbucket were that bad.

A spritz or two of WD40 loosened up the old grease on the handlebar start button and all is now well with the world. Another plus is I found the spare right handlebar switch I'd bought a couple years ago but hadn't got around to fitting it.

The amount of corrosion is stunning.

Thanks JZH, yes it was a risk to do this on line, but I checked out the car wheels and motorcycle wheels and the company years in business. Other review form a customer in Italy all helped me to choose Forging Kingdom. Also the engineering team working with me to produce the CAD drawing. Alibaba do not pay the supplier till you have approved the product, didn't want to rely on this but seemed to suggest they value the reputation of the factories on the platform. I just wanted to share my experience and if any forum members want a forged front wheel, I would recommend Forging Kingdom. Cheers FF.

Honda does not typically produce their own pumps. That is handled for them by Tier 1 supplier Yamada Manufacturing. Look for stamp on casting that looks like Phoenix or a Thunderbird with its wings spread. That isn't a Honda wing logo thing. That's the logo of Yamada.

Under the 5th gen part # you are correct. But pumps for 6th and 8th gen should swap right in. Both still available

If I might ask - where did you find a new factory water pump? AFAIK they are now NLA from Honda.

The mankiest caliper/smc in europe I'd bet!😬 THe rebuild kit arrived so I decided I'd take the old caliper apart to see what it's like under the crud. My plan is to dissassemble this smc and clean it up. If it looks good once cleaned up, I'll rebuild this one and swap out the one that's on the bike. if this doesn't look great once pulled apart, I'll have learned how to take it apart and I'll pull the one on the bike and rebuild that one. I started the job and then realised I needed a circlip pliers...couldn't get one locally so that's ordered but won't be here until next week. I'm also waiting on a dremel blade to tacklet the nuts on the shock link plate as there isn't a hope of getting them off any other way. i've tried penetrating fluid, heat, impact driver and I'd be there all day so has to be cut off....so I'm at a stand still for a few days until those bits arrive!

The custom made PCB arrived for my improved fuse box (mainly triggered by delayed power on for the Rapid Bike My Tuning O2 sensor):

I lived in Hong Kong for a couple of years and I've long been very impressed with the Chinese sense of industry. You can definitely find junk as cheap as you want, but also very high quality manufacturing (if you pay for it). The trick has always been to know which is which, and looking on from afar it can be difficult to do that. So I'm not surprised that you can get a high quality custom wheel made in China, but I would not personally have taken that risk (although I will probably buy some "big brake calipers" for my van, which are only really made in China). Some day, the "Chinesium" risk premium will disappear, just as it did for Taiwan, South Korea and Japan. I'm glad you've taken the plunge and are satisfied with the result. It certainly looks great! Ciao, JZH

Correct

I just collected my VTec from the shop, after they fitted the forks with new bushings and seals. One of the downsides not having a garage, basement, or even a shed is the lack of a decent workspace. At least it has a carport to keep most of the weather off. Next task is to clean and relive the throttle side switchgear as the starter button is slow to release. And then I think I ought to replace every vacuum line I can find. I found a very crispy one last year when I replaced the cam chain tensioners.

so a quick flip through the service manual led me to this: that sounds consistent with the fuel pump not sounding "energetic," since any one of those going bad would cause the pump to not run. would also explain it not showing a code. so i would check: -killswitch and wiring (make sure it's clean and making good connection, as well as the wiring; since it shares a connector with the front brake switch, and you mentioned that's also causing problems, this would be my prime suspect.) -tip sensor (shuts off the bike in a drop or crash, here's the service manual procedure): -engine stop relay (this is what the killswitch triggers on and off and provides power to fuel pump, injectors, and coils; the ECU monitors this relay and throws the aforementioned Code 0 if it isn't switched on. again, here's the service manual procedure): as far as the light coming on above 4k, i suspect it's just this: hope i helped, best of luck.

Burger beat me to it... I had this typed out and got a "There has been a reply" message. Typically Honda gives you a small flat-blade-screwdriver relief somewhere on a cap like that to get some purchase. If not, start with your newest/freshest blade and try and get a start. If it gets marred a little on the initial try, you can orient that area down when installing later.

there'll be a notch to wedge in a flathead screwdriver, do that and twist and it'll pop right out

I am removing old exhaust pipes and installing new full exhaust system by Black Widow and I am stuck here.. I dont know how to remove the plastic cover on right side swingarm bolt so I can take down this right foot peg.

Like the idea to use heat shrink where your silicon hoses fit. I have also used other o ring suppliers rather than OEM on my bike, I find Honda use non standard diameters eg 2.2mm There is also some good suppliers of O ring material by diameter and length and good o ring glue so you can make custom shapes. FF

Just another option that came up going through this process. Forge King offered to do a back wheel for me. Seeing that I had the Ducati 848 rear wheel I didn't need to do this. I could see it would be easy for them to do a copy of the OEM Gen5 -Gen6 rear wheel, as it has a design that is comparable to a car wheel. You could get a set of forged wheels for around US$1300. plus shipping. If you check out the resellers, that what you might pay for one wheel.

Big D RS tires are AWESOME!

I removed all of my speed bleeders. By hand seems like the easiest I've found on the bikes and cars.

For sure you need to replace the connector(s) / pins. I am not entirely sure if we/you can rule out the stator and/or RR yet. The RR gives good voltage now at higher RPM, but they also can start to fail/drop the voltage as soon as they get 'warm'. Let's await the response of more knowledgeable forum members (in respect to me). 🤓 This thread might be nice to read. When you pull the front brake (and/or press the rear brake pedal), the additional load of the brake bulbs might trigger something towards getting a too low voltage? It is far fetched maybe. Just thinking out loud.

Hi all, I choose a company in China who specialize in Car and Motorcycle wheels, they were extremely helpful with converting my hand drawn drawings to CAD. I was then able to make small adjustments to get very close to the OEM front wheel. It is superior to the original Honda wheel as it is forged so lighter and stronger. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-FORGING-KINGDOM-Motorcycle-Aluminum-Alloy_1601636293155.html? My best friend is a machinist fitter turner, he helped with the measurements and was really impressed with the quality of the wheel. Cost for this one off US$660 plus shipping. Front forks, I and changing to the Firestorm conversion, so used the standard Gen 5 forks for test fitment with original brake disks fitted. I wanted something that would match my rear wheel mod and be lighter than the OEM Honda wheel. Forging Kingdom are really easy to deal with. They offer an anodized finish, but I went with a silver paint finish that is excellent. If you check them out, they make a lot of SUV wheels and also Harley wheels. I suspect a lot of the resellers around the world, are just rebranding their products for newer motorcycles. Just wanted to share my experience, as I am slowly working through all the different modifications I can do to improve my 1998 5th Gen. Cheers Paul.

Thanks terry. I'll let you know how it ends up.

I'm assuming you are going with a 17"/17" rim combo rather than the 17"/18" on the OEM bike.

Got a buddy with a hitch tow me to the new place. Now when I put everything back together now the bike won't fire up I hear a loud spat, like electrical issue now upon hitting the start button