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Featured Gallery Photo
Tim A carving through Smuggler's Notch
VT-108 at Smuggler's Notch. Unbelievable curves!
Credit
Photo by Kirk A.Copyright
© 2018 Kirk A.
All Activity
- Today
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Yes, the clear coating can get cloudy, stained and discolored. That's another reason I use this. Go right over the top. Even lines that have the thicker sheathing I install over. And you can use a little WD-40 on longer lines like clutch to keep the shrink tubing moving over the banjo fitting, no issues.
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Might need some help putting my '01 back together again.
davenay67 replied to davenay67's topic in Fifth Generation VFR's
Appreciate the suggestion. If this joint was sealed by a flat fiber-type gasket where pressure was applied evenly across the whole sealing surface I would happily use a gasket sealant and think nothing more about the job. However, being an O ring, I am not sure exactly where the O ring fully contacts the surface, and if some some of those pits are in a bad place that the O ring doesn't quite cover well enough for a good long-term seal. JB Weld should pill those pits nicely. I will post pics of the repair when I can get to it. -
After years of using Hazard Fraught stick on weights and static balance, I tried balance beads for the first time on my 1800 cruiser last tire change before a cross country run. I poured in amount recommended in pamphlet by motorcycle tire size (2oz front and rear), even used one of those tiny Walter White scales to get the measurement. Cruiser has been doing this weird wiggle shimmy on acceleration since. Especially disconcerting leaving a light for a left turn. Around 24-35 mph, but then everything quickly smooths out. Interstate speeds absolutely flying is butter, no problems. I've been looking at this more closely since getting back from my trip a few weeks ago. The wobble definitely felt like a wayward mass that was distributing out at speed (how the beads work) but besides balance beads, looking at other possible causes. Running 65L top trunk, but I was before the beads and this shimmy wasn't there. Front steering bearing preload could use a little snug up. With bike on a stand, font tire falls too easily to the stops and bounces one too many times, but it's not like the steering stem is flopping around in the head. Bike is currently at 122K miles, and I don't think bearing preload has changed significantly just for this last tire set. I'll get some lock washers on order and tackle this winter. 1800 has the nice bearings from the factory that 1300 owners upgrade to. Rear shock bushings are toast, and they have been forever, lol. I have parts on order for this fix, but again no shimmy before beads. Well, rear tire was at wear bars and rear brake pads down, so I replaced all yesterday. No beads this time, just the static balance and stick on weights. While I had the Rabaconda out, I ripped off the front wheel, broke the beads and pulled one side over the wheel. Vacuumed out the beads, reset everything and did static balance.. back on the bike. This morning commute on the cruiser, no shimmy shake on acceleration. Not a hint. Guess it was the beads. Now I'm sure some bead fans are gonna say "2oz?! That's way too much". So what? 1.85 oz for slightly less shimmy, 1.5oz maybe not enough and I get vibration at speed? No thanks, I'll stay with the static balance.
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I'm just about to start a strip and rebuild of my 2014 VFR1200F brake calipers. Not done it before on this bike so looking for any gotchas, suggestions or good advice. Thanks.
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Theoretically they work. But... dunno... I fell much more comfortable in stick-on weights set with static balancer.
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Thanks for the tip The odd thing I think is the corrosion has started elsewhere but not where the clamp to the brake caliper rod is, then on the clutch line it's more less logic. As I have believe the brained lines are from stainless, could be more logic it's the inside of plastic covers inside that has effected of UV from sun over time?
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The car shift pedal is about 25mm outward from the linkage and more outward than the VFR800 non QS pedal. I believe the VFR800 OEM pedal is in closer.
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+1 for Marine grade heat shrink. We obviously used it extensively on the ships I was on as it protected our wiring long term from corrosion in a salt air environment, and was also effective for short term immersion in, well, the ocean.
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That is a good price for that box. I have enough tool boxes I just need to organize stuff better. Still recovering from moving twice in 2023. Gave away some stuff that I wish I had now, but had nowhere to put it then.
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I use 3:1 ratio, 3/4" heat shrink for marine electrical cables. It has an adhesive that gets activated when you heat it for shrinking and seals the line for protection. It's big enough to get over the banjo fitting but shrinks up for a nice look. You have to use the "HIGH" setting on the heat gun and slowly work your way from the center out to the ends, rotating the line over the gun as you go. Trim it about an 1/8" short and you can pull/stretch it out to where you want it when everything is still warm. If you go long and try to push it shorter, it will wrinkle up a bit. Even if the brake line is in good condition I still do this for rub protection and it looks good to me. Especially if you are trying to maintain a more stock look. I use the 1/2" version on the remote res hose when I have shocks rebuilt too.
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Should we be worried that "every manual (is) based on a stripdown and rebuild"?
- Yesterday
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For comparison, in case you want one. https://www.youtube.com/@b-radsadventures6846/search?query=delkevic https://www.youtube.com/@b-radsadventures6846/search?query=staintune
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ok, recorded at distance with different phone. This turned out better. Delkevic muffler with no baffle, rev+flyby. Followed open header rev+flyby. Cams are so loud can still hear them over open header on approach. VFR reverberating through the hills is pretty haunting, and the final upshift followed by closing throttle burble after flyby. 😲
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Yep! Been around for yrs over here, seems Haynes do have a sense of humour. I've got one for an SR71 Blackbird I'm building one in my shed, struggling to find enough Inconel for the wings leading edges, apparently Coke cans melt at Mach 2.
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HF sale on this thing for Black Friday....$299......
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Might need some help putting my '01 back together again.
Burger replied to davenay67's topic in Fifth Generation VFR's
give it a thin coat of gasket sealant, like this: -
Like every guy, I can't help myself now that I've been researching and shopping. This may be a long post. Ratchets: My super fancy ones from Craftsman (1985ish), as it turns out...are 36T. I ordered a set of ratchets only last night on what I think is a smoking deal. I don't care that they'll scratch. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100-Position-Ratchet-Set-5-Piece-H1005PCRAT/305011095 From reviews, they'll require immediate disassembly, clean, and 30W oil...and will then be perfection. I thought about the 144T but having lived with 36T for my whole life...these will be great. Did I mention cheap...and free shipping! Two of my favorite tools ever are spring hooks. I can't tell you how many times they've saved my bacon...rarely puling springs, but more reaching into holes to retrieve or bend something. I used them the other night down inside of my subwoofer fuse holder to bend the tang back up so that it would make contact, and power again! https://www.zoro.com/moody-tool-heavy-spring-tool-pull-9-12-in-51-1855/i/G0846711/ and https://www.zoro.com/moody-tool-spring-tool-hook-and-lifter-8-12-in-51-1850/i/G0801665 I've been trying to score one of my other favorite tools, but no luck so far on fleabay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/357920387448 I'm not a Snap-On fan, but do love this bad boy. They also make a stubby version and super long version that I don't need. Milwaukee boogered up one of my other products and can't get a replacement, so they're sending me this for free. It was on the list anyway! SCORE! https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/48-22-9004 Gave in on the big set of ratcheting wrenches too. Hope to pick these up next week. Seems like a fair deal to me. https://www.northerntool.com/products/gearwrench-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-and-metric-32-pc-57746 After discovering that I have never used many of my big 1/2" sockets, I decided to hunt for deal on the three I use, 22mm, 24mm, and 32mm. With deals, I found each for almost nothing. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/45-34-9123 and https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/45-34-9125 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DK7X2N6?ref_=pe_123509780_1038749300_t_fed_asin_title&th=1 And I realized that I only ever use a 5/8" spark plug wrench and on another deal, picked up: https://www.northerntool.com/products/milwaukee-3-8in-drive-5-8in-magentic-spark-plug-socket-drive-size-5-8-in-model-48-22-9552-6102884 Not worth $20, but worth $10! Trying to decide on these. I love my old Craftsman set. Thoughts, anyone? https://www.sears.com/craftsman-17-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931794000P Discovered that I own two of quite a few things, so will have one in each location, also making some space around here. Leaf blower, Dremel and bits, etc. Lastly (for now!), back in the day, tools didn't have cases, hence the toolboxes. Most of these items have their own cases and could just go on a shelf. Did I buy "too much" toolbox? This has been fun...
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Progress has slowed a bit. I had ordered a bunch of parts which have now arrived - gaskets/seals, new hoses and clips and a few other assorted odds and ends. I think I have everything I need now to start the rebuild. The only progress I've made was the throttle body intake boots - They were filthy so I've cleaned them up and put them soaking with some silicon spray to see if they will soften a bit. They aren't in terrible condition so I'm hoping they can be reused. I have some building work going on this week so I'm unlikely to get near it again for a week or two
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until
That's just a couple of hours from me, so I'm a maybe. ✌️ -
Well as I was not so good health wise I ordered a few bites to the red RC24 from a nearby breaker. This morning I was fit to look thro the bit's Some where nice but there where a few disappointments The good was a look kit whit one orginal key. So no more flat screwdriver in pocket to gas station, as old fuel cap had a broken key in it as was a but worn looking like you see in next picture Other nice bit was a rear brake pedal as current is cracked Then there was a brained clutch as rear brake line The rear brake line looked just dirty but actually it's the brained steel that has started to corrode under the clear plastic cover. So nothing you can do about.... Bummer Then there was a central stand whit spring Well it looked ok even missing the tube it attach to frame whit.... I did a note of that the attachment tube was missing, as I have ordered quit a bit of parts from that breaker during the years and been ok parts so far, he responded he will look if he finds it, well eventually he will not, as closer inspection tell her has grinded the central stand off as the tube is still stuck inside Bummer Then he had a front fairing stay that looked straight even it had a crack near where one of the mounting bolts for frame, but now testing it it's about 3mm twist in the front part And the faster to frame has several cracks repair by welding as other side close to current crack has been cut as reweld to compensate the twist. I have given the seller a email, let's see how he responds
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- Last week
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Ordered. 😀 From a UK bookseller.
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By vfrpilot28 · Posted
I enjoyed reading this and seeing your story. For the love of motorcycling! -
By interceptor69 · Posted
Oops. I do believe I know how to post YT videos or they wouldn't be on YT. However I may have screwed up copying the link to the playlist. Thanks for the helpful comment. -
I think that you might not know how to post videos. You're in your YT studio in these links. You need the link to the actual video.
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