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Not sure what we are hearing in that last sound file. Can you load a video?

I just priced up a single OEM shim at USD9.48 each. Or you can buy a complete set 141 pieces, 3 of each thickness, for USD64 from Aliexpress. That's how I do it.

That's nutz.....It may be the same bike I helped MarriedMan do an update on the charging system. That's got to be 10+ years ago.... If it has a R/R mount plate with a FH020... its the one. Supposidly he sold it to a guy in Florida, but it could be you, Sweeper... Very cool!

Friend bought a clean 2008 last weekend. Called me last night and said it came with a "box of parts" he didn't want or need. Some old forks, seat cowl and pegs and stuff. Made him an offer he accepted and he brought them over this morning. Had to hide my grin when I saw these forks because I usually miss getting goodies like this. 😁

Is there much of a difference in price between the two? Micrometer is cooler though x) Ah fair thought it was the opposite, a lower range torque wrench is already on the shopping list so Noted Bet Yeah it's running fine as it is so it should be fine, I suppose if I have the covers off and the clearance is way outta wack in the loose direction then the further dive is warranted Ah so you mark, take out, check shims and stuff and put it back in without moving the crankshaft? Aye the paint is just another guide eh That's fair yeah

The weather in Blighty has improved significantly and as it was 15 deg C / 59 deg F today with blue skies I was able to make significant progress on 2 bikes. Firstly the VFR800X Crossrunner. She will be up for sale soon as I no longer need my commuter so she's had a service but after I finished washing her I noticed a fork seal leaking so I've replaced both seals - first time servicing forks! Alongside that I'm putting finishing touches to the VFR1200X Crosstourer. New seat from Top Sellerie, fitted fender extender but had to take front wheel out to remove fender so I could attach it properly and I've fitted the Givi pannier rack. No filtering/lane splitting with these bad boys on! Top box is from my 1200F as it's bigger than the OEM CT box.

I was really looking forward to seeing her on this forum again! That's my old girl. The name came one evening after days of traveling in the mountains and I was feeling her heft. She didn't get heavier, I got older. That bike has about every aftermarket mod you could do to a VFR except Seb's clear clutch cover(hint). I think I still have the instructions for the cruise. The owner/designer sent them to me when I contacted him about it not working. He was great to help. If you look in the TMAC threads here, you will see plenty of pics and links to video with Ol'Heavy. She may be a little chunky, but she can dance. BTW, I did not build the bike, I bought it that way. MarriedMan built it if he's still on the forum.

Welcome to VFRD from across the pond

MC is correct via conversation with PO when I was looking to buy it. "...... McCruise electric cruise control. The cruise vacuum model needs to be cleaned. It's pretty straight forward but requires the fairings off. If you don't use it regularly, they will stick(why I'm not cleaning them). According to the designer, its our ethenal gas, I never spent any time on straight roads so it didn't get used.... "

I assume that will be an MC cruise unit if it is vacuum operated. If so, they're in Australia but aside from that I have heard positive things about their support. https://mccruise.com/product/cruise-control-for-honda-vfr800f-v-tec-interceptor-2002-2013-high-exhaust-pipes-vac_upgrade/

Just the nickname given by a PO. Not sure why as he could hustle it pretty good thru the mountain curves.

"Ole Heavy", don't know how to feel about that but its cool it's recognized lol. Appreciate the insight on the cruise not working too.

That's "Ole Heavy". I almost bought it last year but it was too many hours away and I had just bought a Blackbird. Lots of tasteful mods on that VFR. Previous owner ( or 2 ago ) told me the cruise control vacuum *model* needed to be cleaned. Hence the non functioning. An effect of not using the cruise plus ethanol fuel.

Yeah, Daugherty Motorsports suspension front and rear

Welcome! There's some nice goodies on that bike; I see a DMR sticker on the forks so likely to have had the touch of suspension guru Jamie Daugherty, and the rear looks pretty high so guessing he has been into the shock as well.

Welcome to the forum. Bike looks far younger than 19!

The mock up / checking if we have ALL the parts (we don't...) continues...

40 years ago I started working, so a celebratory decal is due.... OK, at that time the logo was blue...

Before you go digging into the airbox again, you can try clearing the MIL fault indicator. You may have trigered the fault if you switched the ignition on with the IAT disconnected during the rebuild.

I will look into that tonight...thought I double checked everything but who knows

That loose on basket is ok or is something wrong with that ? 20260302_180742.mp4

I can see you point, but this one did actually come whit out a front stopper, it's not missing in the delivery, it's not just designed whit one! But I will add one for sure. I don't live in a area where earthquake's are common so don't necessarily need to strap it but will add the loops to if I want. Today I got ZR7S pistons part 2 As the cylinder was not that worn opted to not bore the cylinder, just a hone whit new orginal size pistons, these arrived from UK, not Japan as the first 0,5mm oversized onec. So now I have a set oversized pistons in case I need or sell on....I dream a bit of riding the ZR7S 2026 but we have to see.... it's not all up to me and a lot of projects going on (not all motorcycle onec)....

Yes shims are a standard diameter of 7.48mm across many bikes and brands, the only exception I have come across was for my VTR1000F which used a bigger diameter. OEM shims come in finer 0.025mm gradations (1 thou), whereas aftermarket shims are in 0.05mm (2 thou) increments, so you may not have too much choice when it comes to getting into spec. For example if your intakes are at 4 thou and should be between 5 and 7, then dropping 2 thou (0.05mm) on a shim will get to 6 (in spec), but you won't be able to get to 7 unless you had an OEM shim. It's been a while since I reshimmed my 5th gen but shims around 1.65-2.10mm come to mind. I have both digital callipers and and a micrometer but honestly the callipers are a lot more idiot proof and perfect for shims. That torque wrench ( I own the same one, and its bigger brother) is too manly for the torque needed in the head which is just 10 or 12 N-m. I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench which covers that range nicel (I think it does 6-25 or something). Be especially careful torquing the cam cover bolts as if you over do those, you snap the casting in the head. Any old imperial feeler gauge set will do; this isn't NASA. I wouldn't even consider taking the head off unless there was low compression. Then that level of investigation would be warranted. The picture shows the rear head on my 5th gen, and the paint mark on the gear teeth and adjacent saddle. But there are really good marks on the sides of the gears that make lining it all up easy enough with the crank in the correct position. Always rotate the engine by hand after reassembly and don't force anything, that is a good check for mechanical happiness, along with an extra check on the timing marks.

That fault inidcates that the lead to the IAT is probably unplugged, it is in right the bottom of the airbox on the 5th gen. It is a white sensor with a fine wire. I never had much difficulty with throttle body boots, I have used a smear of silicone grease on them to make them slip in easier, after that just a firm press down will seat them, as long as the clamps aren't too tight below...warming them with a hair dryer can also make them more pliable.