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I just sold a perfect OEM Grey one on eBay last week.

Odd thing on the seat cowl is that my friends 2008 is grey, but came that cowl from a 2007 RWB. I've also got a carbon look one from "off shore" and it fits rather nicely.

The ones out of China are probably pretty decent, including color match. At least you'd have one while you look for an OEM version.

boy I wish I was lucky as you, been looking for a good condition white rear seat cowl for a 6th gen for the last year or so, hahaha

That is a video don't know why people can't see the video anyway I sort the problem 👍

I've never had the confidence to attempt the forks but now I know how easy it is I'll definitely have a go again.

Hello. It's time to sell my bike. 2014 vfr800 deluxe. 53,000 miles. Full bags, lithium battery, bar risers, ixil exhaust, new tires last year, garmin GPS, kaoko throttle lock, givi touring windshield, always well maintained. Coolant changed twice, brake fluid flushed every other year, regular oil changes, etc. I've ridden it out west three times, up Pike's Peak, tail of the dragon, ironbutt saddlesore 1000, etc. I did drop it once in my driveway, resulting is a scratched left side pannier, and a very small scratch on the fairing. Bikes in really good shape, as you can tell, I love my vfr. I just have had life changes, and won't be riding for a while. I hope to find a new home for it, where the next owner loves it as much as I did. I'm in North East Ohio. $5250. Thanks for looking! Edit: I also have the takeoff parts. Rear seat cowl, grab bars, grab bar delete covers, factory windshield, OEM muffler, etc.

No thanks, motorbike parts are a better investment. 🤑

Welcome from NoSoCal. Nice to see she's still in the VFRD family. She's purdy.

That sounds kind of dirty mate.

Good on you for taking the plunge. I was a little apprehensive about rebuilding my Penske 8987, but dove in anyway. Was pleasantly surprised to find the pin spanner from one of my HF grinders was the exact size for the shock cap. Other than breaking the rebound jet on the end of the shaft because I didn't fully understand how it came apart it was pretty straightforward if a bit tedious. The most time consuming was waiting for parts, and bleeding the oil bubbles on re-assembly. The blind bushing puller was the only tool I needed to buy.

Good evening. I have 1985 honda vfr1000r that was my dads. Im trying to sale it. It's sat for years so either a rebuild or for parts. Paint is in pretty good shape for being from 85. Some scratch and 1 dent on gas tank. Just reaching out trying to find someone who might be intersted

It is one and the same. The guy in Florida bought it for his wife and she found it too big. He had it about a year. I got it from him and had it until a little over a year ago. The only reason I got out is that I got old and found that a lighter more upright bike makes me faster. I notice that my garage still list her as (Still for sale). That bike has great stories to tell.

I'm please to say that I have cracked the code for KYB cartridge disassembly. If you've done RWU Showa cartridges, they come apart by pressing the cartridge base up to expose a circlip, then pulling the compression valve out and sliding the damper shaft out the same way with the rebound valve, easy-peasy. The KYBs are a "screwed together" design, the cartridge base screws in the bottom and the seal head screws in from the top, and both have threadlock, so I had to learn new techniques and create a tool. The fixed bottoming piston stops the damper rod just pushing out of the bottom of the cartridge. The base has some nice flats for a spanner, but the top has a recessed castellated fitting. There's also the bleed holes on the cartridge wall which come in handy. I repurposed a 17mm dogleg spanner (hey, only cost $20 for a set of 6 spanners!) and attacked that with my angle grinder to cut matching teeth for the castellations, this slips right over the damper rod. There's probably a better purpose-made tool but this was good enough. I got a tip from the Racetech bible about tapping the threaded cartridge section from the outside with a hammer, which does free up the threads. Then it all unscrews! The photo below shows the compression valve on the damper base. You can see the bolt has been peened over to retain the nut, that has to be filed away so you can get the nut off. One of my dampers (which I had been riding on until I changed out the leaky forks) was damaged, the peening had broken away and the nut escaped, so the compression piston was floating loose at the bottom of the damper and not providing any compression damping. At all. Yikes. The stock pistons are pretty restrictive with three small control ports and three big refill ports, as shown below. Not very different to the older HMAS pistons in earlier VFR except for the refill port size. For those new to suspension, there is a one-way check valve plate that seals the top of the three big ports so flow must go down through the three small ones, and these exit onto the bending shim stack. When the flow reverses, the check valve lifts opens and easy flow comes back through the three big ports bypassing the shim stack. So you get strong flow damping in one direction but not the other. The compression piston is oriented this way so as the damper rod enters the cartridge, oil is displaced out of the cartridge through the compression shim stack and the fixed bleed that bypasses these. During compression, the rebound piston check valve is open so no compression force is generated. On rebound the oil trapped between the rising rebound piston and the top of the cartridge is forced down through the rebound shims and also the adjustable bypass port. Oil is drawn back into the cartridge through the now-open compression check valve. The stock compression valve has a really tiny fixed bleed drilled in the valve body, must be 0.8mm or so. 1.3mm is generally regarded as a decent choice. I have now fitted up a set of Racetech Gold Valves for compression (from my departed ST1300, dirty pic below), and some Daugherty rebound valves (bought with 6th gen rebound adjusters off EBay). I've gone for firmer shim stacks (C34 and R17) as the 1200 is pretty heavy on the front end, but will see whether that is too much compression for our bumpy roads. Next step is to transplant the completed cartridges into the forks that are on my bike. I am also planning on boosting the oil height from the stock 160mm to 140mm when I do that. Unfortunately test riding may have to wait as I am travelling for the next few days.

Well, I don't buy Lottery tickets. But I recommend that you do. 😁

The way I see it, you can in fact still filter/ lane split. You are just going to be in the market for new hard bags. A lot. 🙂 Nice work, I hope the new owner appreciates your diligence in making the bike right. Fork seals are one of those things that get ignored when a bike is being sold because of cost for a shop to do it or the inconvenience of taking the front end apart. PersonallyI don't mind doing mine, gives me a chance to check other things out "while I'm in there". When I was working on sail boats, I was the one who ended up repairing/ servicing all our hydraulics, back stay rams, vangs, outhaul cylinders, etc. The pressures were far greater on the boats, but the basics were similar.

Not sure what we are hearing in that last sound file. Can you load a video?

I just priced up a single OEM shim at USD9.48 each. Or you can buy a complete set 141 pieces, 3 of each thickness, for USD64 from Aliexpress. That's how I do it.

That's nutz.....It may be the same bike I helped MarriedMan do an update on the charging system. That's got to be 10+ years ago.... If it has a R/R mount plate with a FH020... its the one. Supposidly he sold it to a guy in Florida, but it could be you, Sweeper... Very cool!

Friend bought a clean 2008 last weekend. Called me last night and said it came with a "box of parts" he didn't want or need. Some old forks, seat cowl and pegs and stuff. Made him an offer he accepted and he brought them over this morning. Had to hide my grin when I saw these forks because I usually miss getting goodies like this. 😁

Is there much of a difference in price between the two? Micrometer is cooler though x) Ah fair thought it was the opposite, a lower range torque wrench is already on the shopping list so Noted Bet Yeah it's running fine as it is so it should be fine, I suppose if I have the covers off and the clearance is way outta wack in the loose direction then the further dive is warranted Ah so you mark, take out, check shims and stuff and put it back in without moving the crankshaft? Aye the paint is just another guide eh That's fair yeah

The weather in Blighty has improved significantly and as it was 15 deg C / 59 deg F today with blue skies I was able to make significant progress on 2 bikes. Firstly the VFR800X Crossrunner. She will be up for sale soon as I no longer need my commuter so she's had a service but after I finished washing her I noticed a fork seal leaking so I've replaced both seals - first time servicing forks! Alongside that I'm putting finishing touches to the VFR1200X Crosstourer. New seat from Top Sellerie, fitted fender extender but had to take front wheel out to remove fender so I could attach it properly and I've fitted the Givi pannier rack. No filtering/lane splitting with these bad boys on! Top box is from my 1200F as it's bigger than the OEM CT box.

I was really looking forward to seeing her on this forum again! That's my old girl. The name came one evening after days of traveling in the mountains and I was feeling her heft. She didn't get heavier, I got older. That bike has about every aftermarket mod you could do to a VFR except Seb's clear clutch cover(hint). I think I still have the instructions for the cruise. The owner/designer sent them to me when I contacted him about it not working. He was great to help. If you look in the TMAC threads here, you will see plenty of pics and links to video with Ol'Heavy. She may be a little chunky, but she can dance. BTW, I did not build the bike, I bought it that way. MarriedMan built it if he's still on the forum.

Welcome to VFRD from across the pond

MC is correct via conversation with PO when I was looking to buy it. "...... McCruise electric cruise control. The cruise vacuum model needs to be cleaned. It's pretty straight forward but requires the fairings off. If you don't use it regularly, they will stick(why I'm not cleaning them). According to the designer, its our ethenal gas, I never spent any time on straight roads so it didn't get used.... "