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I had something similar on my ST1100 where it would fart and cough when given throttle; that turned out to be weak voltage to the ignition system, caused by corrosion in one of the connectors (the big red one that feeds power to/from the right bar switches).

Just realized that the title has a typo but hopefully it's clear that it's 1200F DCT not 1000FD. I've measured the static sag in the front and it was 40mm while rider sag was 50mm. I've increased the preload but did not measure the sag again, it's quite difficult to do it by oneself I used a white thread tied to fork bottom and a black paint marker. I would say the springs are tired, fork oil is perhaps old or some other mechanical mismatch. The damping in front seemed a bit to strong when measured statically, so I increased it a bit to get basically a 0.5-1s when pushed until it goes back up. The rear preload was decreased by feel (sag not measured but seemed very low) and damping increased to 1/4 from max. I would say it will need replacement. I raised the triple (lowered the forks) to a more reasonable level as the bike was not even safe on the side stand anymore, the light was pointing down and the brake reservoir kept rubbing on the windshield at max steer lock. Anyway, for a short ride it seemed a bit more predictable in turning and going over bumps while leaning, but hard to say without a longer ride. Season will soon be over and I will try to find a respectable mechanic in my area to have a good look at the bike. I used to do my own bikes many years ago but this would be a lengthy side-project, especially checking the valve clearances for this bike. It seems this suspension had a hard life even with not so many miles.

Mine(‘86) acted like that not long ago, turned out fuel pump points were not working due to old age/pitting, etc. Cleaned & polished contacts with a small fine file& sandpaper strips & it’s still working fine after 6 months of use. An extra provision made was to install a common automotive condenser, hopefully reducing sparks @ points..

Good for you. You can now take wiring troubles off your maintenance list. But 20 year old bikes always have something that needs attention.

Hi guys I need help with my 1987 Honda VFR700F. I bought the bike for $300 in Chicago and its been a project ive been working on for a couple months now. Who knows how long the bike had sat before I bought it but the plate that is on it is from California and dated 1998. That being said I got it running and the issue I'm having now is when I go to give it throttle it dies. It'll idle great but I haven't been able to figure out why it dies when the throttle is applied. Ive taken the carbs off and completely cleaned them any help would be appreciated i just want to ride it before winter comes thank you.

Happy to report that I picked the bike back up yesterday and IT’S ALIVE! They replaced the front and the main wire harness under the recall. The front harness is the only one under the recall, but since there were melted connectors between the front and the main harness, Honda protocol said that they have to replace the main harness as well under the recall. Wanted to post a couple of pictures so you guys can see some of the work. I’ve owned the bike for 3 months and yesterday was the 1st time I was able to ride it around the block!

Happy to report that I picked the bike back up yesterday and IT’S ALIVE! They replaced the front and the main wire harness under the recall. The front harness is the only one under the recall, but since there were melted connectors between the front and the main harness, Honda protocol said that they have to replace the main harness as well under the recall. Wanted to post a couple of pictures so you guys can see some of the work. I’ve owned the bike for 3 months and yesterday was the 1st time I was able to ride it around the block!

Terry's right on the coolant Temps, those are normal. On the coolant still,--- you are overdue on a flush out and replace.

Very nice bike! Elegant, discreet, humble but with a certain noble aplomb. Like it!!

That tube is chowdered.

So now, some throttle body work.... Pulled the clamps off the old TBs... and labeled/bagged to keep track of fronts vs rears... Ditched the JIS screws on the clamps and replaced with socket heads from Belmetric (Very good fastener supplier) Cleaned up a small bit of flash on the IDs of the insulators and lubed with silicon grease from Terry's suggestion and hand shoved them down on the intake side, that went fairly easy. Spent a couple hours with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit finishing paper and quasi polished around the TB connection side... cleaned up any "sharp" edges and machine marks so these were good and smoooooth. D- Day time... Success! Slipped on with hand pressure nice and easy like butter... YESSSSS! Ha Ha! I win... not excited am I? 😁 ---whoa, that was a long time coming.... Now get the clamps, terrible task. Did the intake clamps before adding the TBs. On the TB clamps, most of them I could only see the socket head spying with one eye, no straight shots. Several needed to slip the mirror in there to even see the heads at all. This flex shaft was the only tool thing that worked that I could sneak in there to get to a spot to try to grab it for tightening. A 5/32 (3.968mm) bit fits the 4mm socket heads closely. Got 'em done anyhoo. And lastly, sorta oddball thing... I cant remember what else besides that P clamp to hold down the TB harness goes in this spot with large hole and 3 threaded spots. I have taken a ton of photos and this is the reason I do it, but dunno why, but I missed this part. I have 3 screws bagged for it and "huh?" Same kind of thing the throttle cable mount, I have 3 screws bagged but only see where 2 goes... Bonkers, bonkers... throttle seems to operate fine. Anybody got any photos of those spots? Cheers all...

No planned ones this time... just the joyous surprise of a snapped throttle cable :'D 10-4

Mello, my coolant is about 6 years old. Terry yes it is hot here and at speed it doesn't exceed the 200 temp, usually stays around 196 degrees and yes in traffic and stop and go riding it goes above 200.

Good looking CB!

I hardly use the truck all summer anyways, Well, except to pick up a new scooter. 😉 Just back from an after supper run into town to pick up some wine. You are right, Less four wheels, more two. And at age 73, I thought I was done with that kind of thinking 😉

Fresh tyres and rain is not the best combo 😁 That CB looks good from every angle. 👍

That was the first thing that caught my eye after looking at the first picture. Very nifty and it looks awesome!

Nah, but your car will sit more. The scooter replaces your car, not your bike.

picked up a 2006 Vespa GTS on tuesday. Brings back my P200e riding days. I've got no affection for the CVT drive, but it is pretty transparent once you get going. Will the VFR sit more between rides?

Skrub in ride of front tire done Must say the tire change was for the better, still a light steering motorcycle but far more stable and holds given line far better! On way home I got it's behavior in rain tested to, as I got hit by a heavy rain shower, the tire worked fine in rain, compared to my ride gear, that got soaked as my underwear 😅 In upper picture the rain front in a distance as a screenshot of the shower as I did hit it, man it was heavy rain, about 5cm (2") of water on the road at most...

Red, black, or silver.

Looking for a softer seat for my skinny butt. Located in the U.S.

Seat is terrible for my skinny butt. I need softer. I spend long days in the saddle. I am in the US so options are non existent here. cutting out some foam and replacing with some Amazon gel seems the cheaper. A shop within driving distance can refoam it but that’s a bit more money which is tight. suggestions?

Question on decating and after market air filter as it relates to tuning. The only reason I want a tune (at the moment) is for on/off throttle smoothness. Stock tune power for me is just fine for now. That said, if I do pay for a tune it makes sense to me to do additional supporting mods. #1: Decating. What’s the best route here and is it worth it? Do I just remove the headers and punch out the cat with hard objects like a gorilla? Could crosstour headers work (picture)? Have a shop weld in a y-pipe? What’s the best way without spending a ton? Is it even worth it? #2 aftermarket or stock replacement air filter worth it for tuning?