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You should see a Gen 1 Fazer 1000's "Pair valve setup, proper dogs dinner/octupus pipework mishmash, nightmare to get at plugs, mine's long since been junked & blanked off. Genuine K&N's have their emblem cast into the silicone section, no emblem, its a Chinesium copy. If you're lucky, you've got a sprint filter, strongly doubt it by how much filth's got passed the filter. If you can get on with the Helibars, keep em, they're silly money, scrutinise the welds with a magnifying glass as they're know to crack if bikes been over scuffed clutch cover fins, bike's defo been over on right side. With Helibars you might need longer cables, stock cables weren't any use when I fitted a conventional bar setup, never had Heli-bars, but they do look pretty tall. Re: (Pair valve system) all of it can be junked, blanked off, cap off reed valves stubs or fit new CNC covers, I've a contact that machines em up & sells em on eBay, cheap too. Flapper does naff all, bike will run better without it. They all run lumpy & a bit woolly below 3,000rpm even when everything's correctly setup, uneven firing order etc, it'll run better with decibel killer removed if using a sports slip-on can, it's an over square motor, loves to be revved & happier at higher rpm, Iridium plugs if funds allow, check gaps, plugs get their earth from cyl head thread, use only a tiny smear of anti-seize on plugs, Halfrauds usually sell em discounted in a sale (NGK CR9 EHIX-9) Leave snorkel in situ, it'll run better.

There's a few "bullet" connectors involved around the handlebars, and you could simply have a dry joint on one of them, so your plan seems sound, pull the connectors apart, brush off any corrosion and spray a bit of Deoxit in there. You can also look for any obvious breaks or bad crimps. Given your symptoms my guess is the issue is in the controller wires that come from the left grip.

Frickn gorgeous! Mad skillz

Been reading more into the coating on the throttle bodies, apparently they're used in all sorts of honda bikes and cars and seem to be more critical than I expected. I wonder if that could be the cause of the irregular vacuum readings and needing to have the idle speed screw wound fully out? Has anyone used any particular product to recoat them? Apparently molykote 321 is the stuff to use so I've read? Has to be worth a go I reckon.

Ok good to know. Thanks for that.

Hi All My VFR1200f DCT has developed intermittent heated grips. Sometimes they won't turn on. Sometimes they turn on and then turn off after 10 minutes on their own. If the grips are not working and I move the grip wires on the handlebars around I can sometimes make them work. I can never stop them working once they have come on by moving the handlebar wires. I'm thinking I need to remove the tie wraps and the tape and look for loose connections. I could use a multimeter to see if either grip has got an intermittent connection once I've got them apart. If it's not the wiring on the bars then I'll have to take off the left side fairing and look at the controller and the auxillary connector. Has anyone fixed this before? Any tips? Thanks John

Interesting point about the filter, I don't think it is a k&n but similar. I'll check at some point. Someone has fitted heli bars at some point, I wonder if the choke cable has been changed at some point for a longer one but with too short an inner as such, could be the reason for that. Pretty sure everything is routed as it should be, I'm a bit ocd with stuff like that! Pair valve I was thinking about, they're always so untidy! I had a xj900 a while ago and the amount of plumbing on that for the pair valve was ridiculous! The flapper valve I was probably going to leave, I was under the impression it gave a slight low rpm boost, bit like a power valve I suppose but on the inlet. Does it not do an awful lot then?

Yeah sort vac hoses, they do rot over time, agree with Terry, starter valves seem to be all screwed up, they're supposed to be coated & run dry, if oiled they might gum up especially using a K&N that filters poorly, they appear to catch a load of dust, in reality they're basically 💩 & let a ton of crap thru into the motor, even when oiled, proven by the filth inside your throttle bodies, I keep advising people about this rubbish, but they've been around that long they're a good seller regardless of the shit filtering & poor fit, a lot bikers fall for the hype, (Sprint or BMC) are a way better quality filter, aint cheap tho. A while back on another forum I use, we did our own filter/dust trapping tests on the big filter names K&N / PIPERCROSS/ SPRINT / BMC. Paper filters came top, Sprint & Bmc came second place, even (dry) filter better than K&N oiled, Pipercross or Pipercrap as I call em are just total 💩 fall to bits & go thru your motor, K&N came out the worst for filtration.... Nuff said! Yeah UK 98/99's should have a bar mounted fast idle lever affair, it gets called a choke but it's not actually a choke as such. I've noticed Honda weren't very generous with cable length, even with the low stock clip-ons, when you start fitting bar riser blocks or a conventional bar setup, you quickly run out of cable length. Eg) I've fitted conventional bars that sit as high as the fairing allows, fast idle cable is only just long enough, stock throttle cables were too short to run the stock route, looked a dogs dinner routed any other way, my research led me to ST1300 throttle cables which are basically same cables albeit a few inches longer, expensive new, bagged a good pair from an eBay breakers for £15 inc throttle tube, return cable has too much slack, so not a direct transplant, nowt ever is on a VFR ffs, so I McGuyvered it at throttle body end with a cable tie to take out 10mm of excess slack, i'll make an extra split lock nut as a spacer next time I get tank up. My point is, cables can easily cause you some shit if routed wrongly, too short, kinked, splitting etc, just ensure your's are aren't contributing to your gremlins, I hate a cable slack at throttle, but a tiny bit is necessary so butterflies fully close. Online Manual clearly shows all loom & cable routing if you wanna compare how yours are laid out. While air box is out it's a good time to remove "flapper" & "Pair valve" crap, if not done already. Let us know how you get on 👍

That was one of my thoughts but all the plungers are moving freely. I've got them all removed for cleaning at the moment but I don't think I'll achieve anything from that. Nice to know it's clean though lol.

Road 6 have been fabulous on my MT-10, bizarrely I got 10000km out of the last rear and the profile stayed great throughout. That is about 3000km more than I have got from any others. I agree with Lorne, you don't need the GT on an 800. I also really like the new Bridgestone T33, a little cheaper here than the Road 6 and seem to be equally good, maybe better wearing but its too soon for me to tell. The Michelin has a more "playful" feel, the Bridgestone is more neutral.

I fitted the new subframe this afternoon, it seems to be a perfect replacement for the OEM part but only cost me US$32! Slightly chunkier where the mirrors bolt on but no fit issue. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003502147870.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.18021802LJhFE2 I think it is straight now, the bodywork seems to be sitting better, and I found more missing fasteners under the hood; how hard is it to keep these together people? I also put in some LED H7 bulbs (also Aliexpress specials) and just need to check the low beam aim, but the pattern looks decent. And just for gits and shiggles, I also programmed my spare key. This is no big deal for you people of the Trump Empire, but the rest of us have the chipped key/HISS system, and if you lose your last key, you are sh1t out of luck and can never get a new working key without buying a new ECU. There' s good guide on this here website which I followed and had a happy outcome.

Not saying this is definitely your issue but on my 6th gen, a couple of starter valves were seized open (in the cold fast idle position) and balancing was really hard. Have a look at the starter valves as you pull the "choke" lever open and closed and make sure they are all freely moving, especially the "unadjustable" one. I had use penetrating oil and some persuasion but got mine moveing freely, and then balancing was normal. Your comment about the idle screw being wound right out suggests the starter valves are all set unnaturally far open, and that is probably also why the choke cable seems wrong (but is probably normal).

Ah, ok, so no intercom.

Thanks for concise words PatA; I just followed this and had a great outcome.

It will not be as bright as this. I will spray a charcoal metallic grey base coat to tone it down and the clear coat will mellow it a bit too. It's not a traditional bronze and it's not a "gold". I think it will really work with the custom paint (that has extra gold flake) and custom graphics. And if it doesn't... oh well. I'll just shoot another set of wheels in another experiment. The stock wheels are going to be wrapped and boxed. Here's a couple more shots of these 92 wheels that I just love. Dark Bronze Mist Metallic over that Bronze base with three coats of clear.

My helmet has no connections... The ear plugs connect directly into the back of Sirius Satellite receiver...

Another point to mention, I previously thought someone had fitted too short a choke cable, fully closed it held the starter valves open. I actually had to cut a bit of the plastic choke cam off on the bars to allow it to fully close! I'll change it at some point if need be. Always thought this was odd though.

Hi Gaz, thanks for the reply. Air filter is a k&n type filter rather than a paper one, can't remember off the top of my head. You're right though, underside of the butterflies are far worse too! That said, it did 45k miles before I bought it, I managed a meager 600 miles since I started using it a year ago! It was a near scraper when I bought it, I made it usable last year but I plan on doing a proper restoration going forward. I presume you're talking about the throttle stop with a locknut that seems to be factory set? Mine has some paint marker on it that's not been broken so happy that's ok. Butterflies do seem to fully close. So on mine I have to give it some throttle otherwise it won't stay running, definitely not right I know. The the fast idle with the "choke" lever won't come up until it has been running for a few seconds, before that it'll barely stay running with the throttle closed. And it is an early 99 I belive, pre wax model. I'll get the new vacuum hoses ordered, injectors and throttle cleaned etc and go from there I think. After a bit of research, I do understand the starter valve adjustment, I can't even get them equal at the moment though.

Michelin Pilot Roads are great tires for most VFRs. Choose the Road 6 as the GT version is intended for heavier bikes than your VFR750.

Hi Cam. The coating on butterfly edges will flake off at some point, manual states it's an important feature for sealing & never use brake cleaner, I've cleaned dozens of Honda throttle bodies, butterflies & throttle body inlets out with paper towel soaked in brake cleaner, never affected the coating, your's look filthy & defo in need of a good fettle. What air filter are you using? it's not doing a great job. Throttle stop screw is factory set, ensure all 4 butterflies fully close & aren't being held open in anyway, butterflies need to be fully closed during a cold start crank, if they're held open in any way, you'll have issues with a cold start, never touch throttle on a cold start, this is what starter valves are for, allows an amount air to bypass butterflies, make sure all vac pipes are in good order or you'll get nowhere. Ensure all starter valves can be wound fully in & out or you'll get nowhere, idle adjuster screw accessed through the right side frame rail only affects all 4 starter valves for a fast idle. Once all the above is good, then you can adjust starter valves, sequence is shown in manual, many don't understand how to read vac gauges, if you've any doubts, there's a few vids on Youtube that might help. You've not stated which year bike you're dealing with, early 5th Gen uses a bar mounted/cable for fast idle, late 5th Gen use the crappy wax unit that is problematic.

Hi Dennis. Decide how you use your bike & buy tyres accordingly. ie) If you're a fair weather rider, it's pointless buying spensive all weather tyres like Mich PR5's 6's. I gave a pair of Mich PR5's on my Fazer 1000 a go, hate em, rear's squared off in about 2,500mls, fair weather use only, had no end of slides going into corners, supposed to be multi compound, softer on the shoulders, harder in the centre, I don't believe it for one minute, I'll not be buying Michelins again, Pirellis are a way better tyre, already have a pair of Pirelli Angel ST's to replace the crappy Michelins. I'm also running Pirelli Diablo Rosso 4's on my 5th Gen, love em, fantastic sport tyre.

I've been a Dunlop fan for sometime. Now that they shut down the NY plant I'm going to try the Michelin road 6. Any opinions what is better for the VFR? 6 or 6GT? Thanks Dennis

I think that is one of the rare Russell Savory limited editions done for Honda UK's 50th anniversary in 1998. Ciao, JZH

That's a great setup BLS. Which helmet setup do you use to connect it to?

Hi, so yesterday I thought I'd balance the idle air control valves as I've not been happy with how it's running at idle. Is a pain to start when cold, fires then dies until it finally stays running. Also the idle screw is turned all the way out to get a reasonable idle which I thought was strange. The throttle response is snatchy too. Started adjusting them, I couldn't get #1 anywhere near #2 vacuum reading, I think the nearest I could get it was around 5inHg. Also every adjuster had been wound out so they weren't clicking against the indexed points, definitely not right. So I reckoned something must be blocked, or maybe a vacuum leak but I've not found a course yet. Stripped the idle air control valves down, can see the return spring being a right bastard to reassemble but one problem at a time! All seemed cleanish though, valves moving freely. Will chuck them all in the sonic cleaner tank at work on Monday. My concern is the special coating I've read about on here, supposedly being quite important. Well on mine, I have noticed some of the coating has chipped off in places. I just can't see it making a whole lot of difference myself, what do people think? It's definitely lean at idle too, a quick crack of the throttle causes a lean bog. If it was carbed I'd want to turn the air screw in a 1/4 turn. The ends of some of the vacuum pipes have perished at the ends which could be causing some of the symptoms if they're not fully sealing, will change them all anyway. Will clean the injectors as well, I'll see if I can borrow a mates injector cleaner, be able to see what the flow rate is like then too. I'm hoping to ride it to Assen to watch the GP next year so I want to get it right rather than having problems in a different country! Cheers Cameron