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Forgot to say it's a 2002 only 22000 miles

Thanks for the information I'll check all those things

Welcome to the Board. Would be helpful if you identified which year your bike was, as it would help narrow down possible causes. As far as vibration goes, well. 1. check your front tires balance. A static balancer would be nice, but not necessary. For years I just used a 12mm rod, one end on a 2 X 4 nailed to my bench, the other to a wooden box the same height. Put a level on it and shim with washers to get it horizontal and off you go. Plenty of tutorials on YouTube on how to balance MC tires. Also check the tires date code, I had one tire that balanced fine, but because the bike sat for so long before I bought it, it had a flat spot that just caused the bike to kinds shake at speed. Did not go away until I put new rubber on the bike. Only time it ever happened to me, but it does happen 2. Headstem bearings Put the bike on the centerstand and a ratchet strap over the grab rails to hard points and crank it down until the front tire come off the ground. Again, plenty of YouTube tutorials on how to check this. You may just need to tighten the nut. Replacing the bearings is another animal all together. 3. Fork bushings. How many miles on the bike. Lots? may want to check these if you are satisfied the balance and tire are good as is the headstem bearings. If Lots of miles and no record of them being replaced, you might want to schedule fork seals and bushings. 4. Lastly, bar ends. If everything above checks out, you could try heavier bar ends to mitigate the vibration. On my 2001, I bought it with only 11.5K, so I was reasonably sure the bushings were OK, my head stem bearing were fine when checked, and I put new tires on and balanced them. Still had a bit of vibration at speed, so I put heavier bar ends on. It helped. I did have to make custom fastenings to mount them, but I just wanted to use a set I already had, think they were 10 oz ea, vs 5-6 oz. Must say I smiled when I saw your location. I spent quite a few weekends in Newport when I was working in Falmouth, Cornwall. Loved going to Wales on my 91 VFR to ride. Loved Snowdonia Nat Park, and was fascinated by the Transporter Bridge in your town. Took a R/T on it every visit....just because.🙂 Hope this is of some help.

That is a really , really nice example of an 86 VFR. Well done. I see you managed to fit a 160 on the rear. I'm sure the F2 rims make tire buying a lot less of a headache. Did you do a rake and train calculation for the set up? No reason other than I'm curioius. Did you keep the original rear sprocket size? Years ago, I struggled to find decent radials for my 83 750F, Ended up doing The 84 VF1000F rear rim swap so I could fit a Bridgestone S20 150 on the rear. For the record the 83 Rear disc was a direct bolt on. Kept my 16" front as I really liked the turn in on that bike, my 1000R, and my 87 VFR 700 I had. Bridgestone makes 16" S series so it was a matched set. After about 3200 miles and a trip to 129, 215, Wayah rd, etc in NC, and not noticing any real difference in handling, other than having some nice rubber finally, I did do a rake and trail calculation. Think there was a 4mm difference. Should note that I did measure the old 18" rim with the 130/80 vs the 17" with the 150/60 and decided to drop a tooth on the rear sprocket.

Hi fellers thanks for letting me join has anyone cured the front end vibration at 80 mph IV only had the bike for a couple of weeks only thing iv done is new pads in rear and rear chain adjustment lowered the front by 20 mm and bar rasiers and did the rear shock triangle but turning it to get a bit lower help would be greatfull

An excellent example of what must be the best looking VF/VFR Honda made. 😎

My first thought was, you MUST be single. Anybody have a wife that would allow bike repairs in the kitchen?

the first suspect is usually the r/r. wiring next

Haha...the first thing that came to my mind is that he will be spending time at the drive-up window for...well, you can guess the food item.

Nice kitchen. The first thing that came to my mind was a VFR rolling through while saying "weeeeeee!"

engine's in! found that with some creative application of jackstands and a milkcrate (and an unspecified quantity of alcohol) i could seesaw the frame up high enough to just roll the engine under and get a bolt in. then i could seesaw it forward and install the rest. after that the swingarm went on along with whatever else i could bolt back up. threw the front fairing back on just to testfit the new mirrors. also painted the cluster for a laugh.

I will need a dip to cool down after this carry on. I have never had a duff battery in my life of bikes but I did have one fail about 15 years ago on aYamaha FZR1000 exup, The internal post had corroded and parted company with the plates. The annoying bit was, it was showing flipping battery volts on a static check. you couldn't write a book on it. Anyhow, Onwards and upwards as they say.

Hoping that someone has a 5th gen with a nonfango pannier rack that could advise me on fitting. I was lucky enough to find a used system and I have the rack 4 brackets and a handful of different sized nuts/bolts but am not completely sure how to fit correctly. Any help gratefully received. Many thanks. Peter

Makes you think that you never know what you're getting with a 'new' battery. Presumably there .ust gave been an internal short within the battery itself. I've had several that have failed after only a few months, but luckily in those cases the warranty stuck and happily I was able to find someone to help bump start so I could get the bike home. So it's not the bike that needs a swim then .....

FI code 23 ( 2 long blink, 3 short blink) reappears after clearing with o2 elimators. No 1 O2 sensor wire shorted due to insufficient routing and popped the main fuse (30 amp). Fuse replaced, wiring has been repaired and sensor passed all checks from the Honda manual, cleared codes but no luck. I've decided to remove the sensors and use o2 elimator plugs, cleared codes once again FI code 23 keeps coming back after bike has been started. Any ideas before I take it to the garage?

It may be far easier to purchase one of the Ducati hub conversion kits and use a Ducati spec 6" wheel. Lots of great options for Ducati OEM or aftermarket cast or forged wheels. 6" fits well, anything bigger I don't think would clear the swingarm.

Small update, but not really visually distinguishable. Another set of restored rims, new bearings, and new Michelin Power 2CT. It was nice doing it that way as the swap over was really quick. Had another rotor already installed for the rear, so I just had to swap over the front rotors. While the old tires still had tread, they were old. I had planned on using the old wheels/tires to shake down the upgrades and then swap over. Well, wow. The ride to work really highlighted how much nicer the new tires are with a proper profile and more supple rubber. Two buddies hanging out... "Pick me! Pick me!"

Well done, impressive!

OK, 2 days on, all charging items checked and double checked. I even had the loom tape undone to check the front end wiring, it's all intact and no fried or broken wires that I can see, So, there had to be sonmething a miss. I swopped the battery from the vfr750 albeit taller but it fitted in the pocket into the 800, wired the R/R terminals that I done to the 750 battery, You would not believe this but 14.6 volts INSTANTLY. I put the "NEW" Battery back into the 800 and F***k me, 12.4 volts!! So it looks like a duff battery. WHAT A PALAVER. I have sent the seller a message detailing the outcome and hope they have a warranty period on this battery. Her's hoping that's all it has been. or this bike WILL be going for swimming lessons.

captain80s, I wish the Aliens would come and beam this bike up and drop it in the ocean. The ocean might spit it back.

Morning mello dude, Would/should it make any difference if I have deleted the red/white wire on the POS battery cable and run a new soldered wire from the pos side of the start solenoid terminal (which comes straight from the battery anyway) to the new 30A fuse holder i have used to replace the fried one that was there. I mean, the full bike electrics are still being supplied from the new fuseholder. this is a doozy this one. There are no fried wires or hot spots that I can detect. I was thinking along the lines of Lambda sensors bing stuck on and still heating when they shouldnt be. ( if the bike has any). I had this with a few cars in the past. I am really at a loss. Could someone enlighten me on tightwad's VFRness?? Is it just the same as what I have done, The yellow earth plug mod and the Blue plug bypass then the wiring from stator/R/R direct to battery from R/R.?

Thanks airwalk, I have 2 separate meters, both read very close to each other and an old school annalogue meter which has the same readings as well. Every mod i have done to the wiring has been soldered and double checked. Honestly, This bike, and probably my 100th bike through the years, might well put me off bikes for good. Today,Thursday here in the UK, I am going to knock up some jump cables and put them over to my older VFR750 which is charging 14.6V, and see if the old bike will charge its battery from the 800 running straight from the R/R. Then swop jump cables from old vfr to 800 battery and see if the charge rate changes. i.e. drops to 12.** volts , that way I will know if the drain is in the components/wiring on the 800, the annoying thing is, the damn bike starts and runs a treat. all the electrics are spot on working. well maybe not the charging bit.

I don't think I even considered moving it. Maybe next time.

I wonder how Brembo designs their aftermarket rotors. You would think they would source a used one and use it as a template. I think the VFR laser cutter file got mixed up with another one. Somewhere someone has a VFR type rotor saying “What the heck”?