All Activity

As V4 Rosso said. You won't get anywhere near the load you're expecting and I bet you'll end up stopping the wheel. I'd just ride it

Marvelous!!

Doesn' t come close. Or you would have to give it a fair amount of throttle at the same time.

Has anyone tried these https://gsg-mototechnik.de/en/gsg-sturzpad-satz-streetline-fuer-honda-vfr-1200-crosstourer-2012/ I have a different version on my 1200F but wondered if anyone had tried this type?

Ok ROOKIE, where in VT are you? I am right outside of Montpelier.... let's ride some time!

The Force is strong in this one.

New garage is taking shape, still lots to sort out the correct place for and need to wire in the battery tenders. CT on the ramp ready for me to start work on her over the next few months. Not intending to ride her any more this year.

If the problem isn't too severe, you might be able to re-route the cables to make them work better. Taking them out of the metal cable guides, for example. Alternatively, longer cables can usually be sourced from "bigger bikes", e.g., ST1100 or the like. Ciao, JZH

The one to aim for...

My 2c. Put on your your gear and ride that thing. What is there to "bed in"? It is a Honda with parts designed for it.

Any joy with the Bandit mirrors? can't find any info about mounting hole spacings, if these are 50mm like 5th Gen, they look like they'll fit, not many 50mm mount mirror about with the right kinda stalk angle that'll suit 5th Gen fairing angle of the dangle.

I installed a new Honda rear rotor on my 2006 non abs VFR. I am using new Brembo HH pads and want to bed them in. Since it is the rear wheel, I was wondering if putting the bike on the center or my pitbull rear stand and doing the ten 30, 40 and 50 mph with no full stops would be equal to doing it on the road. Since the goal is to heat up the pad/rotor surfaces so material transfers and there be no full stop in the process, seems like duplicating the process with the wheel elevated should give the same results. Any thoughts?

Whoa! Due to this very post, I have just achieved ROOKIE status. You all can not believe how hound oured I feel!

dedication awards because I posted three days in a row! That I have participated in the forum more than 47% of all members I'm overwhelmed! It's like grade school soccer all over again!

I would have used gaffer's tape.

OK, It's been a long time and I've tried numerous things, but I still can't figure out this bike. I checked with my temp gun today the exhaust temps at the headers, after running for a few minutes, and wow. The left front cylinder was 550 degrees, right front 140, left rear 248 and right rear 160. I have no idea what is going on.

Here is the image from the 90~91 shop manual, note #20 has the chamfered edge pointing down. Also no preload adjuster, as the spacer is your preload adjuster. The missing washer is important, so that the end of the spacer tube is protected ( at both ends ) - being plastic it can easily distort against a metal surface, or if the spacer is metal, it would have a sharp edge as they are usually ground parallel to keep seated properly. The spring height difference is not enough to worry about, they might be aftermarket. Some are so long that you need to remove the spacer, and put a short one in supplied with the springs. If they were causing too much preload, you would feel the fork topping out over bumps...

Depends on condition and if any kit specific hardware is present. But surely they would have some value.

WORD TO THE WISE WHEN APPLYING AIR PRESSURE TO FREE A STUCK CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER MAKE SURE THE STUPID THING ISN'T POINTED AT YOUR STUPID FACE thanks for coming to my ted talk. anyway, more freshly painted parts + rebuilt clutch slave

Thank you VFR78 for bringing this to our attention. Sad news indeed. Grum was a wealth of practical information delivered with precision and occasional wit. He was particularly helpful when I was stumbling along after I bought my 2001 last year. He will be missed here. 8 Bells Grum.

Sweet, thanks a lot! Lockhart was right on the top of my tongue but for some reason I couldn't find the picture captain 80s found. Any idea if they're worth anything? Baby find any completed listings on eBay.

Years later and I still haven't tackled the HID retrofit. I have a factory light in good condition just waiting for me to choose projectors and get started. The usual things have gotten in the way - house projects, other bike projects, our first kid. One of these days I will manage to begin and complete my headlight upgrade. To be honest, my overall bike time has been cut down a bit, most all of my riding is happening during daylight hours so the headlight upgrade hasn't been a priority either. I have added heated grips and a few other bits and bobs along the way that I have failed to document. I also have some nice stuff waiting to go on.... WyLD headers, stainless oil cooler lines. My big hang up on the header is that I am struggling to find someone or someplace willing to stretch the mid pipe so it fits on the header outlet. I also have a set of PP2's to spoon on, hoping to liven up the feel/handling compared to the T30-R's.

Will do Mello Dude - They chose not to convert to Euro5 standards and stopped production in 2021 which is when this was one registered. One owner and they only completed 476 miles before I found it at Superbike Factory

Off to Cornwall next week for a couple of days camping. Spiralling through markets at the moment to find a rack and single left pannier because my can will probably incinerate anything close to it. Let's hope Jens leg holds up🤣 If anyone fancies a beer, fling me a line. Newquay ish.

ditto, for the 6th gen this is the easiest "quick throttle" mod and fit perfectly on my 2002 vfr vtec. on my old 4th gen the R6 tube + dremel mod worked great aswell!