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Yes at all revs. NO change. I cannot get my head round why this VFR will not charge. I mean, if it was a broken/corroded wire/wires, surley the battery should still show a charge straight from the R/R. There are no frying wires, nothing overheating, As I said, the bike does everything it was meant to do Except charge a battery. The remote battery I rigged up from the R/R (not connected in any way to the VFR except from the stator and R/R), shows 14.8 volts with a 100W bulb attached for dummy load. I might add, The remote battery/bulb arrangment immediately went to 14.8 volts at idle on start up.

Service Manuals specify that if you don't reach the annual mileage for an oil change that the oil should be changed annually, but if the annual mileage is next to zero, why should the oil be changed? Does it degrade? What is the reason for changing a year-old oil that through the sight glass looks perfectly clean and new? Does anyone know the answer please?

You have got the crank in the right spot and I think your intake cam is retarded by one tooth. The RI mark should be parallel to the cam cover gasket surface. For the exhaust cam you can sight through the hole in the frame spar to check it's alignment but it also looks like the chain has skipped forwards by one tooth there too. I bought new standard CCTs from Webike Japan, GBP128 delivered for two.

Hi everyone, I noticed the cam chain was rattling really badly, It has a manual cct at the back, i tried setting the tension whilst turning the engine slowly by hand at the same time but then I did this it was diffucult to turn then almost cracked loose and I assume that was the chain jumping and then catching again on the cam sprocket due to being so loose . I tried starting it after setting cct and it wouldn't fire up so I checked the timing and found it looks to be out of time by a few teeth, can anyone confirm This before I adjust the timing

Hi everyone, I noticed the cam chain was rattling really badly, It has a manual cct at the back, i tried setting the tension whilst turning the engine slowly by hand at the same time but then I did this it was diffucult to turn then almost cracked loose and I assume that was the chain jump and then catch again on the cam sprocket due to being so loose . I tried starting it after setting cct and it wouldn't fire up so I checked the timing and found it looks to be out of time by a few teeth, can anyone confirm This before I adjust the timing 20250720_131613.mp4

Welcome!

Welcome to the forum!

Congrats!

Also at above idle?

Copy that! Glad you're getting it sorted! Bring it by Wolfsmiths in the Heights any Saturday from 0900 to noon once she's ready. That's a great bike meet that me and my friends here frequent. Would love to see more VFR representation

Yes but listing don't tell is it front or rear cylinder heads exhaust can. You can actually buy a new even not cheap and I will probably need the followers as well

This is in Germany so shipping will be cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167327119150?_skw=rc24+exhaust+camshafr&itmmeta=01K0MC0S5YB6F8FR4CQN54SPJN&hash=item26f579372e:g:590AAeSw8bpnq3YV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eT80MyMBMj29JaIjkUUw5X32%2BmStTvqJT6USPWiOXF7HZje2WqUzIOZhz8gbJM2TPLa3kMZMFrfLQKNiS8mwdotEn7yPP6ymiwkauuI0If%2BP28jvsoxf1G0mLRYJfCxmWPVii%2FmxG%2Fi3ngWqO7zm7iNGyPFJtEX3rtVXAJt4KfyKmPCp5zNTerW8q8QrhWERr6z3SeEvBCxkHF32vChoXKwOoruAWU%2Bn0dOQGhdKMRZiSen%2BxytkaQgZXVjNgx2E8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6Tg4yFZg

Well today was both a great as a slight sad day for my RWB RC24 Well let's start whit the sad thing. As I bought this bike it had an even ticking that I noticed but didn't sound to bad, as I adjusted the valves it became a bit more noicy, and now it gets more so at idle in especially, at higher rom you don't notice it and bike runs really great. But this morning decided to take a peak under valve covers one more time even all cams looked fine during valve adjustment. And yes, cylinder #3 exhaust cams are not good anymore sadly Some pitting. So need to change it. Then the good thing. Yes, my RWB VFR passed the classic inspection! So a chilling cola, (Pepsi actually) was in order to celebrate 🥳

I think I need to change my user name to USELESS EUSTACE.

Ok all you boffins and technofreaks out there , I need a GOOD explanation as to why this 6th gen 2003 800vtec will not charge. I replaced what I thought, after very lengthy checks, a faulty battery. Now a news high quality GEL one. Shindengen mod , heavy wiring to battery and stator. NEW stator, new main fuse and holder, earth bypasses all done, yellow plug delete done, all connections made with solder on replacement bits. Now with a spare battery rigged up wired straight to the extra pos and neg from the shindengen but not connected to the VFR, I get 14.9 volts using a 100W bulb to simulate load when I start the bike. ( the bike has its new battery in place and the mock up is not connected to the bike wiring in any way) This has definitely made sure the charging side is perfect. It should be, its all new. When I reconnect the pos and neg leads from shindengen back on the VFR, 12.2 volts. same at the front on the redundant R/R plug which cam off the OE regulator. This has really got me beat? starter Solenoid plug and wiring checks out good and clean also. I mean, EVERYthing works as it should on this bike except it will not charge.

CanadianVFR800, There's a bit of comparing apples and crescent wrenches in there. Spring rate/sag and damping are connected (they're in the susspension...but not set in a related way. One doesn't change the other. Ideally, you'd know the spring rate and spacer length...and that the suspension is working properly (god fluid, prioer weight fluid, clean, etc.) WIthout that, you're taking the same swag that most of us do. 🙂 In general, no weight to bike only and no weight to bike&rider are the two sag measurements, preferrably done with the chassis hot, after a decent ride. It makes a difference. Also on a level surface, not an "I think it is level" or it is flat...good enough." It makes a big difference, as you're transferring weight one way or the other otherwise. Ballpark numbers: Front bike only 20-24mm Front bike/rider 35mm Rear bike only 8-10mm Rear bike/rider 30mm People prefer alternatives, but that'll tell you if you're spring rates are close enough. If you get the rider # right but the other is larer/smaller...you likely have the wrong spring rates. For damping, ball park rule of thumb is 1 second down, 2 seconds up/return. Again...this is just a ballpark #. I also vouch for the slacker tool. It is superb. My current VFR suspension notes/settings:

Rider sag is the total travel including wherever the bike sits when unloaded. So you need to unweight the suspension and measure the position e.g. of the fork top and the rear axle, to a fixed point above. I just measure from the underside of the triple to the top of the dust seal, then fit the cable tie and gently sit on the bike before resting your full weight on it (but not bouncing), then measure where the cable tie got pushed to. You will need a helper to measure at the back. The total travel at both ends is 120mm so something like 35mm would be good in the front and back.

Thanks for keeping this going Miguel. Sometimes, about once a year, we need a little reminder to jump in but always happy to, and appreciate the work it takes to keep the site running.

I just picked up one of these, no relationship to company just a happy customer. https://getslacker.com/ I've got a few bikes in the garage too and makes setting sag easy, or finding out you need stiffer springs. Dave Moss has some good videos also: https://davemosstuning.com/

Thank you guys so much for your input. First, to give you an idea of my weight: I weigh ~ 200-210 lbs and I usually carry a tank bag and a tail bag which have basic cookware and day trip stuff, so lets say they weigh an extra 30 lbs all together (10 for the tank bag, 20 for the tail bag, say). I think the state of my suspension at both ends was on the very "soft" side so I have taken the following steps. Front was over 3 lines showing. I am at just over 1 line showing now. According to the cable-tie method, I have just over 3 inches at max pressure (that I can exert on the forks by my weight/pushing), and just sitting on it, ~ 1.5 inches. I kept adding compression, but this did not change these numbers. Even if I turned a few more turns, they stayed at 3 inches and 1.5 inches. This is curious to me, as to whether it is normal or not? In the rear, I added compression by going from the 2nd least compression setting (factory setting I believe), to position 4. My rebound was out a few turns, and I have turned it in now to be about 1 turn out from fully clockwise. My rear sag just me sitting on the bike is 1 inch. I'd appreciate inputs as to whether you think I am moving in the right direction....and thanks again!

Dropped the bike off today at Honda to get the front wiring harness recall completed. Should have it back within a week. I’ll keep the thread updated to see if that fixes my issues.

lol! Sorry I missed this. Dropped the bike off today at Honda to get the front wiring harness recall completed. Should have it back within a week. I’ll keep the thread updated to see if that fixes my issues. I have low confidence this is gonna fix all of my wiring issues so afterwards I plan to take it to “Motorcycles Unlimited” here in Houston. I spoke to Patrick, the owner, and he seems pretty confident that he can fix it. Just excited to get this thing on the road.

Hi Lorne, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Welcome! Post up some photos! We like photos!