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Good morning all, I've been fighting with this replacement lockset for a few days now. My original lock someone tried to break it or something so I replaced it with a cheap one. Recently I've been trying to go over everything and get it all cleaned up and 'nice' for lack of a better term. Bought a replacement OEM (used) lockset and everything works fine except the key won't engage the lock pin. I've pulled it all apart and I'm not seeing anything binding it, I've Frankensteined it with 2 other lowers to test if that was it, I've swapped the pin and the plastic holder thing that attaches to the pin and moves when you turn the key (the one from my original ignition was less worn out than the replacement one) I've used a graphite lube thinking that maybe it was just a stuck tumbler or something. I'm baffled, by all means everything I saw during my surgery of this thing is that there shouldn't be anything binding it up but it still won't turn to lock. Normal operation works totally fine. Off/on/flashers no problem at all. Anyone have any idea?

Hi Danno, Thank you for your donation of 5.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi everyone, I have a 2004 VFR800 ABS with very low kilometers in great condition. It has not been ridden for a few years, and has a full tank of fuel with fuel stabilizer. It has a Power Commander and O2 eliminators, but everything else is 100% stock, no PAIR valve mods etc. It has not had the wiring harness recall, or any other recalls etc. I'm going to install a brand new battery in the next few days. Last year when I tried to start it, the motor would turn over, but would not run unless I put a few drops of fuel into the intake, and then only for a short bit. This year who knows, but I’ll report back and thanks so much in advance for any advice you have!

Sorry I wish to ask about the vfr750 1995/6. is there a dedicated relay for the cooling system! I have not asked a question before so If I have interrupted a thread v sorry

View File Official Power Commander 2 Software and Maps - From Dynojet Hi everyone, New here but I thought I should contribute ! Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. Happy tuning ! Submitter ShinyPants101 Submitted 06/06/2025 Category Power Commander Maps  

Man... you need to use the search bar. How many miles? How does it look? How hard has it been ridden? last time the oil was changed?...... 'Do these bikes have the TOS?' I DUNNO Again, i'm a carb'd street & track rider, so take my advice with a grain of salt... check these things... PLEASE -Sidestand switch- -clutch lever switch- -ignition switch- ^No power loss all the time, just random? ^No dead battery? ^no dimming so it's not the stator or reg/rect... ^smooth or bumpy roads? ^

Just to go over the technique to get it onto the centrestand - once the stand hits the ground you need to simultaneously push down on the centrestand tang and pull up on the little grab handle at the pillion peg. About equal pressure on both, and it comes up and back nicely.

Canadianvfr750 Posted 3 minutes ago So I'm building up this bike I just got when I try to hook up the battery to attempt to start it only will light up the instrument panel when I push the start button.it will turn over if I jump the relay...but if I try to have this small black relay that's the size of a Lego cube..(two circle on top)... That's the best description I have cause I don't know what it's called or does. If it's plugged in then I blow the starter fuse .....any idea what's the problem? Bike has 20,000km and looks fairly unmolested...any help here would be fantastic.thanks

Sorry I see this is wrong forum

So I'm building up this bike I just got when I try to hook up the battery to attempt to start it only will light up the instrument panel when I push the start button.it will turn over if I jump the relay...but if I try to have this small black relay that's the size of a Lego cube..(two circle on top)... That's the best description I have cause I don't know what it's called or does. If it's plugged in then I blow the starter fuse .....any idea what's the problem? Bike has 20,000km and looks fairly unmolested...any help here would be fantastic.thanks

Try running the front wheel up on a wedge to gain an inch or two. Then pulling onto main stand is a doddle.

Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. All the files they provided are attached to this thread and I also started a new map file here (pending approval as of today): PCII_SOFTWARE_AND_MAPS.zip

Fitted my helibars. Needed some modifying, extra holes drilling. Also quite expensive and had to pay import tax. Worth it I think for the extra comfort for under 5ft11 guys or girls. And I’m an all year round biker. Thanks for the advice

Thanks Lorne - much appreciated! Kit has been delivered (currently at the job,itching to get my hands on it to get a looknat the instructions if nothing else) I do have longer throttle & choke cables coming from Japan (Same ones that come with the Hurricane police kit - the bar that comes with the abm kit is pretty similar so should be good on that front,though that said : I've to disconnect the cables either way so a reroute may be required with the Oem anyway...🤷) The kit is supposed to work with all oem cables and hoses,without cutting the fairing too. I'd really like to replace all the brake lines due to them being 27 yrs old, but of a daunting task if I'm honest and the pricey with it but braking ain't something to ever skimp on! Will see what way to proceed when the stuff from Japan lands.

Cool Idea! I'm personally not sold on steering dampeners just yet, but more power to ya! If you figure this out it would be valuable to the forums for sure!

No, but seriously, on occasion my 5th gen's motor will stop running for a very short interval. With one exception, there's no one factor that is consistent. It'll stutter in any gear, at any speed or RPM level. It doesn't matter whether or not the engine is up to temp. It *has* happened as I've been slowing down and coming to a stop, but it has never happened when I start the bike and it's idling or if I'm at a stop and idling. It doesn't matter if the road is smooth or rough, although it's a lot more taxing on rough roads. Sometimes it'll only hiccup once. Other times it'll feel like the bike is shuddering. It gets exciting when it happens as I'm going around a corner or turning at low speed. The reason I believe it to be an electronics problem, as opposed to fuel is that all 4 cylinders drop out simultaneously. If it was an injector or dirty gas, I would expect it to run rough instead of dropping out completely It's also been occurring long enough that it's happened with many different tanks of gas. I use ethanol-free 87, which I get from 2 different stations that are near to me. There are other stations on the island that carry ethanol-free gas, but like I said, I don't think the issue is fuel. There's no other electrical issue that occurs, like dimming lights or the clock resetting, so it's not a major grounding issue. The injectors share a ground, though, along with the intake duct control solenoid valve, which I'm pretty sure I've disconnected. I've even swapped out the ECM. Any cogent thoughts are welcome.

Hi Matey. Electrical gremlins are a real pain sometimes. What's Batt voltage fully charged/ not connected? should be 12.8V, any less & battery's either a duff unit or charger's shagged, test an hr after charging, batt needs to be cool. What's Batt voltage connected? What's Batt voltage tested at with meter Negative on right side chassis ground point & meter Positive on Batt Positive? What Batt voltage, tested with meter Positive on starter side of starter relay & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter & meter Negative on Batt Negative? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on starter body? What's Batt voltage tested at starter with ignition "ON", meter Positive on starter Positive & meter Negative on engine near starter ground? All quick/easy but vital tests that will highlight any gremlins in an ageing loom. How are you testing the Stators output voltage? How have you wired Stator & R&R up? It's highly likely you have some corrosion in chassis ground somewhere, have you checked the orange multi-ground block taped into the loom just forward of the R&R? Warm bike up first, Test charge voltage at battery @ idle & @5,000rpm, ensure lights are on main beam, system needs a load for correct testing, what voltages are you seeing? Do same charge output test with meter ground lead on right side chassis ground & Batt positive, follow main earth lead from battery, it should go direct to starter motor body, remove starter & clean to bare metal where starter & motor touch, clean ground cable (both ends) while ground cable is off starter & battery, Ohms test cable, any high resistance, cable is done & needs replacing, buy a length to 8AWG multi-stand copper earth lead, don't waste money on that chinese tinned wire crap on sale thru eBay, buy proper copper cabling, use new crimp on connectors if you can source the angled type that's fitted or re-use old ones if they've not gone brittle, but they need to be cleaned up like new. Add some of this anti corrosion paste to your toolbox, it'll 100% stop new copper cable corroding inside the crimps, you can use it inside any crimps on copper multi-strand, just paint it into copper wire with an old toothbrush & crush fit crimps, if you plan to solder em as well as crimp, don't use anything other than acid flux or it won't solder, you'll need a blow torch, keep all cable below torch & heat the crimp connector only, solder will wick the crimp, no solder iron will be hot enough. https://www.heamar.co.uk/ideal-30-024-1-2oz-tube-of-noaloxr-anti-oxidant-compound.html? Let us know how you get on?

Haha, I know. But my other bikes weigh like half of what the VFR does. And I'm a gadget guy, so I have to do it. Even if it's not needed, I want to have the ability to pop it on there.

My VFR is an '09 Vtec but is similar enough that my install solutions may help you. I chose a set of ST1300 cables that are about 4"/100mm longer. Rerouting the clutch & brake hoses behind the fork tube gave plenty of slack. I was able to move the brake reservoir intact, but there wasn't quite enough space for the clutch. Here are the details: Yet Another Lil Handlebar install- 6th gen

What size tyres are fitted? 5th Gens on stock suspension with forks thru yokes at stock height are a bit of a haul to get onto centre stand, if bikes on a stock rear shock & spring, adding a 5mm spacer on top under frame rail makes it way easier to centre stand it & it'll turn in better too. Do some basic checks to confirm stock or aftermarket parts. Stock shock is 325mm measured at bolt centres. It's possible you have aftermarket parts fitted, longer lower dog bone link or triangle plates that aren't OEM, you may even have a shorter aftermarket shock fitted. To centre stand the bike, just run rear wheel over a piece of wood 20mm or so, it'll be easier, but there's a bit of a knack to it, once you find it, it's easy.

Thanks Gaz - great info and idea for mocking up with cheap hose - I've actually got a 2m length of fuel hose (temu😅) that'll work fine for this. The ABM kit states OEM lines will work with reroute- if I can avoid it I will. The braided kit presumably comes with the correct angle banjos for each particular line - probably best to fire them an email before pulling the trigger (and enquire if they use swivel banjos where appropriate...) You'd bloody hope so as it costs €440 including the clutch line! Sorry to hear the conversion has gone to plan just yet, hopefully you'll get it sorted! I feel where you're coming from - I haven't put many miles on mine yet (80 or so miles over various A & b roads) but long term, as a daily something needs to be sorted. Bar conversion will cure a lot of it the issue I have with the position - ideally pegs lowered an inch / inch and a half ,may be a combo of adding to the seat a little along with peg blocks but will see how the bar conversion works first. Would hate to have to sell it, great looks,awesome engine and sound,nice stable handling & suspension (probably the slowest steering bike I've owned so far but once it's turned in it tracks a given line very nicely) butbatbthe same time really don't want to be throwing too much money at it either 😅 Just gathering up the bits atm then find time to get into it!

Great if you want to do it. But, I wonder if this is the first case of a VFRD member seeking additional unnecessary weight on the VFR. 😂 Most of us like to trim it off!

Came in the mail today For the Transalp cosmetic upgrade next winter